November 28, 2009
Posted by Caroline Russock, October 26, 2009 at 1:20 PM
This migas (with potatoes, beans, and tortillas) is actually from Mi Madre's in Austin. [Flickr: Mr. Wright]
There are so many good things about Ree Drummond's The Pioneer Woman: wonderful recipes, beautiful photographs her family and ranch, sweet and funny anecdotes about country living. But what really sets her blog apart are the amazing step-by-step photos accompanying the recipes. Even the most concisely written recipes can leave the best cooks scratching their heads, but adding pictures is truly worth a thousand words. Chances are if it looks like the visuals (or close enough), it's probably right.
Every recipe that we are sharing with you this week from The Pioneer Woman Cooks has been lovingly tested and photographed by Drummond, and this hearty Tex-Mex breakfast classic, Migas is no exception.
Every step—from the chopping of the vegetables, to the frying of the tortillas, and final plating of the eggs—is broken down and documented. This visual method of writing and illustrating recipes works equally well for relatively simple dishes, such as this one. What could be better than a stunning portrait of the finished product? Well, multiple stunning portraits of the dish from beginning to end!
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Posted by Caroline Russock, October 21, 2009 at 5:00 PM
The following recipe is from the October 21 edition of our weekly recipe newsletter. To receive this newsletter in your inbox, sign up here!
Eggs in Purgatory is a wonderful example of how dishes that are considered cucina povera don't have to taste particularly, well, poor. This recipe comes from The Southern Italian Table by Arthur Schwartz, and is a popular quick and cheap meal throughout Southern Italy. I haven't priced it out, but I'm pretty sure that this dish can easily and heartily feed four people for well under $5.
I was skeptical of this combination at first, wondering just how satisfying chopped tomatoes and eggs could be, but after the first bite I was a happy convert. I like to keep my eggs on the runny side so that when they break open the yolk imparts its creaminess into the tomato sauce. A few spoonfuls of ricotta are a nice addition to this dish, and if you happen to have any greens laying around your crisper, they can be sautéed with the onions before you add the tomatoes. The name might sound a little menacing, but this dish is far from scary.
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Posted by Caroline Russock, October 15, 2009 at 1:15 PM
[Photograph: Robyn Lee]
It pains me to be the voice of reason during Pumpkin Baking Week, but after our endeavor into the sordid world of Paula Deen's Pumpkin Gooey Butter Cakes I feel morally obligated to include at least one recipe that can be passed off as vaguely good for you.
These Spiced Pumpkin Muffins with Pepitas from Paula Disbrowe's Cowgirl Cuisine are good for you—the flour is whole wheat and they are sweetened with molasses and dried dates—but the best part about these muffins is that they don't taste like health food. Not being the biggest fan of dates, I was shocked to see how much I enjoyed the rich little nuggets that speckle these muffins; they added an earthy caramel-like sweetness, and chewiness. But to counter the whole wheat flour called for, I decided to add a sprinkle of demerara sugar to the walnuts and pumpkin seeds so that they candied slightly in the baking process. It worked out beautifully; the muffins ended up with sparkly crust that was sweet, nutty, and perfectly caramelized.
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Posted by Caroline Russock, October 7, 2009 at 1:30 PM
Yesterday was not a good day. It was one of those days when nothing went right and anyone in their right mind having this kind of day would have avoided multi-step baking projects. But something possessed me to try these Glazed Buttermilk Cake Doughnuts from The Craft of Baking by Karen DeMasco and Mindy Fox. My rationale was, if I could turn out a batch of perfect homemade doughnuts then the day wouldn't be a total loss.
Everything started well enough—the batter came together easily then went into the freezer to chill. After forming the doughnuts, I placed the first batch into the peanut oil to fry. At this point, I was either missing my baking mojo or the oil was too hot.
After adjusting the temperature, things improved exponentially. The doughnuts weren't about to win any doughnut beauty pageants but they tasted wonderful. The buttermilk and lemon zest added a slight tang, the cinnamon and nutmeg brought to mind the fall flavors, and the glaze made these little guys sparkle. Doughnuts tend to brighten any day, and this was no exception.
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Posted by Tam Ngo, October 7, 2009 at 10:45 AM
[Photographs: Tam Ngo]
As crunchy, autumn pears make a star appearance at the markets, what better way to celebrate their arrival than with a sophisticated French-style quiche? This Blue Cheese, Pear, and Pecan Quiche, adapted from The American Boulangerie by Pascal Rigo is one of my favorite ways to indulge in the season. Cooking from the book is almost as cheering as being able to breathe deep butter-breaths from Rigo's Boulangerie in San Francisco on Fillmore and Pine.
Blue cheese and pears sound like unlikely friends, but the funk, salt, and sweetness are wonderful complements. Be sure to use the most ripened pears you can find. The pears' sugar and fragrance are what moderate the cheese tang.
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Posted by Nick Kindelsperger, October 2, 2009 at 4:15 PM
[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]
Ah, breakfast for dinner. Last time I made pancakes, they were light and fluffy with bright lemon curd as the topping. But with fall creeping in, I decided to make these sweet potato pancakes from Chow, which looked like the perfect way to celebrate the coming cool weather. Doesn't it make you want to curl up with some cider and watch the leaves change colors?
My only worry was how long they would take. A sweet potato needs to bake for well over an hour sometimes but luckily these are peeled, shredded, and cooked in a non-stick skillet until soft and slightly browned—which takes about five minutes. In the meantime, you can whip up the batter. When the potatoes are done it's pancake time.
Though I had my stack with the obligatory butter and maple syrup, I think the flavors beg for something a tad different. My thought: peanut butter. Any other ideas?
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Posted by Kerry Saretsky, September 17, 2009 at 5:00 PM
One thing that hasn't changed since childhood is that I love playing with food. As a cook, that now means using ingredients in ways as creative as my second-grade scaled reproduction of Europe in plaster of Paris. September always gets me thinking about back-to-school, and back-to-school means two things in the world of food: breakfast and snacks. These Carrot Muffins with Sweet Chèvre Icing fit into both categories.
Breakfast and snacks, though they bookend the school day, have one thing in common: they have to be whipped up in a hurry. I cut a few corners in this recipe by starting with cinnamon muffin mix. Then, I added those sunny, juicy, golden raisins that are so superior to the average red raisin, chopped, woodsy walnuts, and a rabbit’s patch of grated carrot for a healthy, hearty addition that will help alleviate homework-driven eye strain. But by far my favorite part is the cream cheese frosting laced with one of my favorite French cheeses: soft, fresh chèvre.
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Posted by Blake Royer, September 15, 2009 at 4:40 PM
[Photograph: Blake Royer]
The fried egg sandwich is one of my longtime comfort foods, the dinner my mother would offer to make me when I came home from school after a bad day. She always made them with English muffins, an over-easy egg, a little melted American cheese, and crisp bacon. Those classic flavors—buttery dough, runny egg, and the porky bacon—are still the things I need for the sandwich to succeed. Though it's true I've never turned down a sliced avocado or a thick slice of tomato, either.
My inspiration for this sandwich was some sliced La Quercia prosciutto hanging out in my fridge. The stunning richness and depth of flavor of the prosciutto, which replaced the bacon, allowed me to put together the simplest of fried egg sandwiches, revolving around the pork, egg, and English muffin with nothing else to distract.
I cooked the egg at the lowest possible heat in butter, which turns the whites custardy instead of rubbery and keeps the yolk soft. Then I lost the cheese and buttered the muffin, too. It was the perfect meal-for-one while my wife is out of town—filling, satisfying, and not a green thing in sight.
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Posted by Caroline Russock, September 11, 2009 at 12:45 PM
"Two cheeses, two types of meat, brown sugar and maple syrup?"
As a great lover of sandwiches, I keep many near and dear to my heart. The turkey club with its three slices of toasted white bread topped with mayo, salty bacon, and roasted turkey. The reuben with its creamy Russian dressing and tangy kraut. The simple grilled cheese and tomato. I could go on and on.
I am pleased to introduce the newest inductee to my personal sandwich hall-of fame. Drum roll, please. The Vermont Croque Monsieur from Tracey Medeiros's Dishing Up Vermont is about as close to sandwich perfection as you can get.
Slices of raisin nut bread are dipped into a cinnamon-nutmeg batter and fried to French toast perfection. Sounds pretty good, right? But wait, there's more! Roasted turkey, smoked ham, and Gouda goes in between the two slices. Hold on, it gets even better! A spread of maple-scented mascarpone—studded with chopped chives—keeps everything together. The whole thing is toasted in the oven until the cheese melts, the mascarpone oozes, and the French toast has just the slightest hint of crunch.
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Posted by Carolyn Cope, September 8, 2009 at 10:30 AM
[Photographs: Carolyn Cope]
In the Crisper
Featured Veg: Fuzzy squash, aka fuzzy melon, hairy melon, hairy gourd, Mo Qua.
Prep: Peel. Then dice, grate, or slice.
Eat: Raw, pickled, braised, stir-fried, stuffed.
Substitute: Summer squash (cooked) or cucumber (raw).
Whoever named the fuzzy squash has really got some explaining to do. Possibly even a scholarship fund to establish for retributive purposes. Because how can a vegetable be expected to get anywhere in this world with the weight of that name on its shoulders? If you're thinking that "fuzzy squash" may be the least appealing name a person could give to a perfectly lovely food, well, I regret to inform you that it's the second-least appealing name. Second after "hairy gourd," another name for fuzzy squash. Poor dear.
"Anyone want to share my hairy gourd?"
"Um, no. Are you even allowed to ask me that at work?"
Never mind getting ahead. You'll be lucky to keep your job.
Last I checked, peaches are fuzzy too but I guess they were lucky enough to be named by someone with a knack for marketing. Or at least someone whose mom taught her to accentuate the positive. Hairy Gourd Namer's mom, on the other hand, wore a belt when she was eight months pregnant with him. It's little wonder that this versatile summer vegetable is more prevalent in Chinese cuisine, where it goes by the kindler, gentler name Mo Qua. (It's kinder to me at least, since I don't speak Chinese. For all I know it means "Anyone want to share my hairy gourd.")
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Posted by Robin Bellinger, September 6, 2009 at 8:00 AM
I usually scoff at butterphobia, but man, this crumb cake is kind of shocking. It’s marvelous, to be sure, but you need to bake it for a crowd—or run the risk of realizing on day two that your casual nibbling has taken you through an entire stick of butter.
Although Martha Stewart’s Baking Handbook deems this cake “foolproof,” I nearly managed to ruin it: I let the butter for the topping get too warm before cutting it into the dry ingredients, so my crumbs were more like a dense, uniform blanket. It still tasted fantastic (if a bit salty—I would reduce the recommended 1 1/2 teaspoons salt by about half), but be sure to mix up the topping before the butter gets too soft, especially if your kitchen is still summer-hot.
A small square of crumb cake would be a great dessert at a barbecue or picnic, but you could also start the day with a larger slice and a nice piece of fruit.
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Posted by Robin Bellinger, August 30, 2009 at 6:00 AM
[Credit: Robin Bellinger]
One New Yorker cartoon that lives in my memory shows a man teasing his wife, “You’ll buy anything if it says poids net.” If you suffer from Francophilia, as the cartoon woman and I do, you will be taken with trouchia, a traditional chard-and-onion omelet that, despite its French provenance, doesn’t involve any tricky flipping or rolling—perhaps because it’s from the easygoing south. Better still, it is delicious at room temperature and therefore can be prepared in advance.
I often overcook mine (which is really Deborah Madison's from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone), since I have an unconquerable fear of discovering a runny egg pool in the middle of my breakfast. Luckily, I rather like the browned edges. Make French potato salad and ratatouille ahead of time, too, and brunch will be as relaxing for you as it is for your guests.
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Posted by Carolyn Cope, August 25, 2009 at 9:30 AM
In the Crisper
Featured Veg: Kale
Strip: Remove leaves from stems by running thumb and forefinger along stem from bottom of leaf to top.
Chop: Cut leaves crosswise into 1-inch strips.
Wash: Submerge in large bowl of water and agitate. Let debris settle to bottom. Repeat in fresh water. Do not dry--moisture aids in cooking.
Substitute: Collards, mustard, dandelion, kohlrabi greens
My family suffers from a genetic condition called Big Deal Syndrome (BDS). Though we're also reasonably high-functioning, there's no issue, no task, no microgreen too small for us to make into a big deal over the course of a day or two. Replying to that email? Big deal. Running to the store to get some flour? Big deal. Sometimes I like to say we're "overthinky" to make our condition sound charmingly neurotic, like something all you cute aspiring novelists might want a piece of. Trust me, though. You don't.
A surprising downside of BDS--and this one is kind of a big deal--is that those of us also prone to overcompensation will, for the back half of our college years, act like nothing is a big deal. Then we'll spend a few years trying to follow other people's lead on the big-deal front, eventually getting so out of touch with our own inner compass that we'll lose the ability to identify a true big deal when it's staring us in the face. Sure, sometimes we'll lunge at our babies in full Heimlich pose if they cough while eating a Cheerio. But other times we'll dive right into the world's longest recipe for what Michael Ruhlman calls the "world's sexiest pie" at 10 p.m. with every expectation of getting a full night's sleep.
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Posted by Caroline Russock, August 24, 2009 at 1:30 PM
[Flickr; edwardkimuk]
Making doughnuts at home is exciting and prepping the batter is actually a pretty mundane affair—just some measuring, sifting, whisking, and folding. But the real thrill comes in the second the batter hits the hot oil. The pale sticky mess instantly begins expanding, solidifying, and taking on a beautiful golden hue, not to mention the incomparable scent of freshly-made doughnuts that starts filling up your kitchen.
These Spiced Buttermilk Doughnut Holes from Carole Bloom's Bite-Size Desserts are arguably better than your standard DIY doughnut recipe for a few reasons.
This isn't a recipe for doughnuts; it's a recipe for diminutive doughnut holes (hence, you can eat a lot more of them). Buttermilk adds a dairy richness and unique tang. And the combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger? Just imagine the classic old-fashioned doughnut with a hint of spice. There you have it.
Win 'Bite-Size Desserts'
As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Bite-Size Desserts to give away this week. Enter to win here »
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Posted by Robin Bellinger, August 23, 2009 at 6:00 AM
[Robin Bellinger]
This deliciously unusual sandwich comes from Clotilde Dusoulier's Chocolate and Zucchini—the book, not the blog! Making your own tomato condiment may sound a bit fussy, but it’s actually very little trouble (and, more important, totally worth it).
Although some people are still skeptical about sardines, this sandwich should convince any but the most committed haters: up against sweet tomatoes, creamy cheese, and pungent greens, the oily little fish don’t seem quite as aggressive as they otherwise might.
Be sure to cut off the crusts—it makes a difference—and if you like a double-decker, then do as Clotilde does and use these quantities make two club sandwiches instead of three regular ones. These would be great for a picnic; indoors or out, complete the meal with stuffed eggs.
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Posted by Robin Bellinger, August 16, 2009 at 6:00 AM
We’ve all eaten leftover dessert for breakfast (um, right?), but some mornings only a fresh batch will do. Cobbler may not be standard brunch fare, but it should be. As far as I can tell it’s no more decadent than most of the muffins out there, and it’s usually much, much more delicious. Although a spoon, a dollop of yogurt, and a mug of coffee are all you really need to enjoy a pan of berries and biscuits before you’ve changed out of pajamas, for guests you could serve petite portions alongside scrambled eggs and bacon for an unexpected treat.
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Posted by Caroline Russock, August 10, 2009 at 5:45 PM
Photograph from nirbhao on Flickr
Imagine a world without pancakes. Pretty scary, right? For those who are gluten-intolerant, pancakes are just the tip of the iceberg. Wheat finds its pesky way into all sorts of things that most of us eat everyday.
A gluten-free diet can be a big challenge, especially when it comes to baking. Luckily Elizabeth Barbone has put together a comprehensive guide to gluten-free baked goods. These Diner-Style Pancakes from Easy Gluten-Free Baking use rice flour in place of wheat flour and xanthan gum provides the structure that gluten typically provides. The rest of the ingredients are pretty standard pancake fare. Barbone likes to cook hers in plenty of brown butter for a crunchy, golden brown exterior.
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As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Easy Gluten-Free Baking to give away this week. Enter to win here »
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Posted by Ed Levine, August 9, 2009 at 4:52 AM
Who is Lucy Dobson? She's a friend of the terrific and very funny cookbook and children's book writer Ann Hodgman. This recipe is from Hodgman's Beat That! Cookbook. Here's what Hodgman has to say about cheese souffle:
Now what's the main problem with cheese souffle? Besides the fact that it falls, I mean? I put it to you that the main problem is those stupid beaten egg whites. Not only do you have to treat them like the spoiled babies they are, but they also muffle the cheese flavor so terribly! Why bother making orthodox cheese souffle at all, when all you'll end up with is a sunken pile of baked fluff?
Pretty funny stuff. And there's lots more where that came from in Beat That! and its companion volume, Beat This!
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Posted by tressa eaton, August 8, 2009 at 6:00 PM
Hmm, this might be something to try tomorrow morning, no? Why don't you grab the ingredients this evening? —Ed.
I have to confess, I tend to be an obsessive recipe follower when cooking something for the first time. I think it has something to do with learning how to bake sweet things when I was little. "If you just throw some baking soda into your cake, you will be sorely disappointed," was the loud and clear message I got from my mother. But, as I learned, if you let measurements and chemistry do their work, you'll almost always be greeted by something beautiful when you open the oven door.
GranoIa on the other hand, is where I play hard and fast. My rule of thumb when it comes to granola: Follow your taste buds and you won't be disappointed. I don't like most industrial cereals and always find granola in bins or bags at the health food store to be way too sweet or wildly expensive. But, oh, homemade granola you get me every time, and I think there are plenty of others out there just like me.
When I interned at Gourmet, I was asked to research what dish readers were requesting the most for the You Asked For It column. It turned out to be granola by a landslide. My hypothesis was that when people are on vacation at inns or fancy hotels, they get great granola for breakfast and they dream about recreating it at home. But so few people do it. Embrace making your own granola. It's cost-effective and so much healthier than the packaged stuff. Plus, it takes one easy hour on the weekends and you'll be set for days of great breakfasts.
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Posted by Ed Levine, August 2, 2009 at 7:00 AM
I found this recipe for the legendary Louisville Hot Brown sandwich (named after the hotel it was invented at) in the American Century Cookbook, the same terrific, historically oriented tome I found the cheese strata in last week.
It's one of these relay recipes that American Century author Jean Anderson got by way of Elaine Corn of the Louisville Courier-Journal, who in turn found it in the files of Cissy Gregg, that newspaper's late food editor.
The Hot Brown is a mighty tasty affair. It's basically an open-face turkey sandwich topped with a cheese sauce, garnished with bacon and sautéed sliced mushrooms. How could that be bad?
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