November 28, 2009
Posted by Chichi Wang, November 28, 2009 at 12:00 PM
[Photographs: Chichi Wang]
After the sensory overload of Thanksgiving, all I want are the pure, soothing flavors of Japanese cuisine. Most Japanese recipes involve some combination of dashi, soy sauce, sake, and mirin, yet the sum of these few components is always greater than the parts. Aside from umami-intensive soy sauce, it must be all those free-flowing glutamates present in dashi that lend such complexity to each dish.
Most of the dashi I make goes towards miso soup and chawan mushi, the latter of which is not nearly as common in Japanese restaurants. Chawan mushi is an egg custard—the most delicate, ethereal egg custard I know of. The trick is to use as much liquid as possible in proportion to the eggs, which produces the soft, silky texture that's the mark of an impeccable chawan mushi.
When properly made, the custard should be barely set and quivering. We often use the word "quivering" to describe custard dishes, yet not all textures are delicate to such a degree. Crème brûlée, for instance, is not so much "quivering" as "creamy," and flan is better described as "jiggly." But chawan mushi truly quivers, a trembling mass of custard that seems to glide down your throat.
Continue reading »
From Serious Eats
Posted by Claire Sellers, November 28, 2009 at 10:00 AM
[
Flickr: pin add]
In season throughout the winter, parsnips are a root vegetable closely related to the carrot by family and appearance—but the parsnip has a pale color and a sweet, nutty flavor. Parnips were first cultivated in Eurasia during ancient times and are often used in dishes with other root vegetables today.
Parnsip recipes, tips, and info after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Paul Clarke, November 27, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Let's start the weekend right--with a cocktail recipe from Paul Clarke (The Cocktail Chronicles). Need more than one? Hit up the archives. Cheers!
Ooh, really shouldn't have had that second slice of pie. And that last scoop of stuffing? What was I thinking?
Fortunately, as I blogged about earlier, I had the foresight to pack some Fernet Branca to the in-laws on Thanksgiving. While this mint and eucalyptus-laced Italian digestivo can knock an overstuffed stomach back down to size all on its own, it also packs a powerful flavor punch in a handful of cocktails.
Here's one that was put together by my friend Rick at Kaiser Penguin: the Fernet Old Fashioned. By simply substituting the amaro for the more familiar bourbon or rye, this drink bolsters Fernet's already mighty powers as a digestive aid with a touch of aromatic bitters (also good for an upset stomach) and a dab of sugar to make it all a bit more soothing.
Continue reading »
Posted by Blake Royer, November 27, 2009 at 4:00 PM
[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]
You've got a lot of turkey and you don't quite know what to do with it. We've all been there. Lunch today was a turkey sandwich with cranberry sauce smeared on bread with gooey stuffing in between. As good as that tasted, you're ready for something new.
Pot pie is my solution. Chances are you already have some leftover turkey stock, which makes this a very easy-to-put-together meal. With your roux-making skills in top shape from making the gravy, now's the time to act.
I used store-bought pie crust for this, but if you've got the time and energy, homemade is even better (Ina Garten's recipe is rather foolproof). The flavors in this are traditional: celery, onion, and carrots with a little parsley thrown in. Feel free to take it in a new direction with, say, a tablespoon of curry powder. I baked the pies in ramekins to decrease the cooking time (plus they also look cuter that way).
Continue reading »
Posted by Joshua Bousel, November 27, 2009 at 3:00 PM
About the author: Joshua Bousel blogs about grilling on his blog, The Meatwave, and appears weekly here on Serious Eats during grilling season.
[Photographs: Josh Bousel]
Alton Brown may be against stuffing a turkey, but stuffing a pork chop, now that's another story. If you haven't tired of that Thanksgiving dressing and are dearly missing the act of stuffing a bread mixture into a piece of meat, then this is the recipe for you.
I would think that any leftover stuffing should work with this technique, you may just want to add some extra liquid to it so it doesn't dry out when re-cooked. I followed Alton Brown's recipe for a cornbread stuffing with fall flavors (running the gamut from walnuts to dried fruit), piped into brined, double-thick loin chops, then grilled over medium-high heat.
The texture and flavor of the stuffing injected a new and exciting life into these chops, which now has me eying other meats at the butcher that may be ripe for a similar treatment.
Continue reading »
Posted by Caroline Russock, November 27, 2009 at 1:00 PM
Two solid days of cooking have gone by and I'm happy, though a little exhausted. My Thanksgiving was a resounding success and everyone left full, happy, and armed with a bag of leftovers to last them well into mid-December.
The curse of being the Thanksgiving meal host is that it doesn't matter how many dishes you make, you never get to eat to the point of Thanksgiving gratification. This recipe for Turkey Salad from Good Eats: The Early Years by Alton Brown is one of the best and easiest ways to use up your Thanksgiving leftovers.
Just take the great turkey that you made last night, mix it with the rest of the stuff you have leftover in the fridge, and put it in a sandwich. No extended family plus mayo and bread—this turkey salad is the perfect Thanksgiving decompression meal.
Continue reading »
From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Carey Jones, November 27, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Here's a breakfast idea for you: Fry up those leftover mashed potatoes with some chorizo and slide a few fried eggs on top. This recipe comes from the chefs at Rosa Mexicano, one of New York's classiest Mexican establishments. I'm strongly considering sneaking into my kitchen and pulling out the sauté pan now... if the pie doesn't derail me first.
The recipe >>
Posted by Carey Jones, November 27, 2009 at 9:00 AM
Courtesy of Rosa Mexicano restaurants
Ingredients
1 pound chorizo, removed from the skin
6 ounces white onion, diced
1 ounce chopped garlic
1 teaspoon allspice,
1 black peppercorns, ground
2 pounds leftover mashed potatoes
Kosher salt to taste
Procedure
1. In a pan, sauté chorizo until crispy.
2. Remove chorizo from pan onto paper towels and add onion to pan. Cook until translucent.
3. Add garlic and sauté until soft.
4. Add spices and cook until they start to give off an aroma.
5. Add mashed potatoes and season with salt.
Posted by Nick Kindelsperger, November 25, 2009 at 5:00 PM
The Thanksgiving Eve dinner.
[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]
Ah, the calm before the storm. Like just about everyone else, I'll be driving somewhere for the big feast, get stuck in traffic, and finally arrive a little worse for the wear, ready to stuff my face silly. It'll be worth all the trouble in the world, but there is no denying it's hard work. So tonight I felt like something that was decidedly not difficult, time-consuming, or heavy. I wanted a fast dish that required few ingredients.
This recipe from Mark Bittman fits the bill perfectly. It's kind of inspiring what a whole bunch of garlic [Ed. note: Which, according to Anthony Bourdain, should not be used on the turkey] and a few slices of bread will do when mixed with chicken stock.
The broth comes out deceptively rich and the bread gives it body. The shrimp fight valiantly against the broth, adding a slight touch of sweetness to each sip. It's warming but not excessive; humble without being boring. Not a bad way to start a crazy holiday weekend.
Continue reading »
Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 25, 2009 at 4:10 PM
Read more about these here.
Published with permission from Serious Barbecue by Adam Perry Lang.
Ingredients
8 sweet potatoes or large yams, each about 10 ounces
About 3 tablespoons kosher salt
1 banana, with a 2-inch slit cut into the peel
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter
2 cups heavy cream
1 cinnamon stick
1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon finely ground fresh black pepper
Procedure
1. Wash each of the potatoes well, poke holes into them with a fork, rub each with about 1 teaspoon of salt, and wrap with heavy-duty aluminum foil.
2. Place directly on hot coals and cook for about 20 minutes, or cook in a 350°F barbecue for about 50 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a paring knife. At the same time, cook the banana in the peel until blackened, about 15 minutes.
3. Carefully take the potatoes out of the foil and scoop the flesh out from the skin into a large bowl. Cover with foil. Scoop the flesh out of the banana into a separate bowl. Increase the temperature to high.
4. Place a small roasting pan or deep baking dish with high sides that can take the direct flame (a 13 x 9-inch baking dish with a 15-cup capacity is ideal) over the heat and let heat up for 5 minutes.
Add the butter and let melt. Add the cream, cinnamon stick, brown sugar, potatoes, banana, 1 teaspoon of salt, and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Using a potato masher, mash the potatoes and banana and stir to combine.
Season to taste with additional salt and pepper as needed.
