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Limburger Mac and Cheese from 'Di Bruno Bros. House of Cheese'

[Photograph: Kate Williams]

Limburger cheese carries with it many false assumptions (and wrinkled noses). It is often avoided based on reputation alone. But Limburger fans know that if you're willing to get past its strong odor, you'll be greeted with a soft, grassy cheese with background notes of funky mushrooms. Such fans will often be seen eating :imburger on sandwiches with onions or sardines, but a much better use is in Tenaya Darlington's Limburger mac and cheese from Di Bruno Bros. House of Cheese. This mac is a standard baked recipe with a milk-based cheese sauce, peppered with classic Limburger pairings. Sautéed onions and brown mustard are stirred into the cheese sauce, and deep brown pumpernickel croutons stud the top.

Why I picked this recipe: Like grilled cheese, mac and cheese is not something to overlook in a cheese-focused book. The use of potent Limburger made this recipe even more of a can't miss.

What worked: Limburger is a surprisingly good choice for this creamy dish. It melts perfectly into the cheese sauce and keeps its signature flavor intact even when mixed with milk, pasta, and butter.

What didn't: No problems at all.

Suggested tweaks: The mustard and pumpernickel are key to the punchiness of this dish, so resist the urge to tweak those. You can augment the mac and cheese with bacon or pork if you're in the mood for lily guilding.

Reprinted with permission from Di Bruno Bros. House of Cheese: A Guide to Wedges, Recipes, and Pairings by Tenaya Darlington. Copyright 2013. Published by Running Press, a member of the Perseus Books Group. All rights reserved. Available wherever books are sold.

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