Serious Eats: Recipes

Bi-Rite Creamery's Smooth and Mellow Chocolate Ice Cream

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

This may be the best version of a milk chocolate ice cream that I've ever had. It's definitely chocolate-forward, and plenty rich, but it really lets the milkiness of lower cocoa chocolates shine. Should you want to branch out to peanut butter chocolate swirls, rocky roads, or chocolate brownie chunk ice creams, this should be your base.

What Worked: Even with mild Hershey's cocoa, this recipe produced a beautifully rich, very chocolaty ice cream. I can only imagine how wonderful it would taste with higher quality stuff.

What Didn't: The recipe as written requires unnecessary work. It has you make a slurry with the cocoa, milk, and cream, then heat it, then temper your egg yolks in a separate bowl, then return everything to a saucepan. I'm all for careful technique, but if you're just cooking your custard up and don't need to heat the dairy for any longer than it takes to cook the eggs, this step just wastes time and fills the sink with bowls to wash.

Suggested Tweaks: Instead, whisk your egg yolks, sugar, and cocoa together directly in your saucepan, and add milk slowly as the recipe directs until you get a smooth paste. Slowly whisk in the rest of your dairy and cook the custard all at once. It'll come together in half the time.

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About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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