Serious Eats: Recipes

Linguine with Celery Root Cream, Apples, and Pancetta

[Photograph: Blake Royer]

Seasonal produce and pasta so often collide in delicious but rather boring combinations. Sure, it's the easiest route to employing what you get from the market: boil pasta, add vegetables, and add a knob of butter and some Parmesan to help bring it all together. But since I'm always on the lookout for something more interesting, I was intrigued by this recipe from Stephanie Izard's new cookbook Girl in the Kitchen (the food she turns out at her incredibly popular Chicago restaurant Girl and the Goat has received accolade after accolade). It involves a little more transformation of the ingredients into something special.

When I plated this pasta, I started to get really worried. This is about as beige as food comes—how the heck would I make something like this look tasty? But hidden inside the creamy celeriac purée made with cream and vegetable stock are caramelized apples, cubes of crisp pancetta, and wilted red onion. Slivers of celery add a crunchy echo of the celeriac. It's a satisfying combination. My only change was to add a little white wine to the pan to add some acidity.

About the author: Blake Royer is a food writer, photographer, and filmmaker based in Chicago; he has been writing for Serious Eats since 2007. You can follow him on Twitter @blakeroyer.

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