Serious Eats: Recipes
Cook the Book: Mahogany-Glazed Chicken Wings
Listeners of The Splendid Table know that host Lynne Rossetto Kasper has, let's just call it, a passion for all things Italian. But only the most devoted fans of the show know that she got her start teaching not Italian but Chinese cooking.
These Mahogany-Glazed Chicken Wings from the just released The Splendid Table's How to Eat Weekends were surely inspired by this early love for Asian flavors.
Cooking my way through How to Cook Weekends, it's becoming more and more clear that Lynne and her producer Sally Swift not only put out a great radio show but excel in recipe writing. The steps for making these sticky-salty-sweet-and-sour wings are laid out in a manner that's both comprehensive and informative, the sort of recipe that leaves cooks with no lingering questions and a plate of truly spectacular wings.
Beginning with a flavor-packed marinade, these wings are pierced in several places to ensure both crisp skin and meat that's full of big soy-plum-hoisin-garlic flavor. Instead of slow-baking these wings right on the baking sheet, they are placed on a rack, allowing for the skin to bake up to a Peking duck-like sticky crunch.
How to Eat Weekends includes wine pairing notes for many of the recipes in the book, and for these wings, Lynne took the opportunity to highlight her love of Italy by way of suggesting a bottle of Nero d'Avila or Salice Salentino for these wings. The two warm, Southern Italian reds both have the body to stand up to the bold Chinese flavors. And on a another pairing note, I opted to serve mine with some quick pickled bánh mì-style cucumbers with rice wine and sugar, since every good wing deserves a crunchy veggie counterpoint.
As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of The Splendid Table's How to Eat Weekends to give away this week.