Serious Eats: Recipes

The Crisper Whisperer: Ratatouille in Buckwheat Crepes

Ratatouille in Buckwheat Crepes is not a recipe. Well, technically it is a recipe, fine. But it's more than that, too. It's a first-rate problem solver. And frankly, it would like to be seen as one for a change. Do you think you're sick of words like mouthfeel, toothsome, and yummers? Try being a vegetarian brunch dish trying to make a name for yourself as a doer in this world.

First and foremost, Ratatouille in Buckwheat Crepes solves the age-old paradox of feeding brunch to a houseful of vegetarians without plunging them directly into diabetic coma. I love a good [insert baked good here] as much as the next guy, but it's always nice to have some variety on a brunch menu.

Second—and here's the really great part—you may have noticed that ratatouille, with its eggplants, peppers, and summer squash, is not exactly honest early-spring fare. It's pretty summery, if we're calling it like it is. Maybe you don't much care about such seasonality. But some of us have a cheeky locavore image to maintain, and for that reason and others care about at least the appearance of seasonality. That's where the crepes come in. Serve all the ratatouille you want at the beginning of April. Just tuck it into a buckwheat crepe, and no one will be the wiser.

Buckwheat crepes adapted from The Silver Palate Cookbook. If you don't already own that wonderful book, please consider treating yourself to a copy.

About the author: Carolyn Cope writes Umami Girl and manages a CSA in New Jersey.

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