Marmalade is a preserve made of citrus fruits, usually studded with the bitter rind of the fruit itself. While it can be made of lemons or limes, grapefruits or clementines, the traditional marmalade uses the Seville orange (although the best one I've ever had was made from oranges and tangerines, making it just slightly sweeter).
Marmalade is one of those polarizing ingredients: either you love it and smother your toast with it, or its bitter-sweetness makes your tongue shrivel in protest. The Secret Ingredient's marmalade recipes are a compromise. I can't promote just bitter-sweet jam on toast, but to overlook the complexity of marmalade in different applications is just as foolhardy. The texture makes it perfect for thick sauces like in last week's Orange Peel Shrimp. And its warring bitterness and sweetness adds such depth to the otherwise very sweet chocolate chip ice cream in this recipe.
I don't know what could go better with orange than vanilla or chocolate, so why not throw in both? A very vanilla ice cream studded with dark chocolate gets a ribbon of runny marmalade throughout it, adding creamsicle sweetness and candied orange rind bitterness all at once. The result is unexpected, sophisticated, and simple. Perfect if you want to impress, or just make sneaky trips to the freezer for some scoops (just like with any other ice cream).
About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way. She also writes the French in a Flash series for Serious Eats.
- 1 cup milk, cold
- 3/4 cup granulated sugar
- Pinch fine sea salt
- 2 cups heavy cream, cold
- 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
- 1/2 cup orange marmalade (recommended: Bonne Maman)
- 1 3/4 ounces 70% cocoa dark chocolate, cut into small chunks
Chill ice cream maker bowl overnight in freezer.
In large bowl, whisk together milk, sugar, and salt with hand mixer on high speed until sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Add cream and vanilla extract, and whisk to combine.
Turn on ice cream maker, and pour in cream mixture. Depending on machine, ice cream should be ready in about 20 minutes.
Place marmalade in small saucepot over medium-low heat and cook stirring frequently, until just loose enough to pour. With ice cream machine running, add chocolate chunks through top of ice cream maker. Once chocolate is thoroughly combined into ice cream, steadily stream in marmalade (don’t pour it in all at once), and allow machine to just distribute it as ribbons through ice cream. Stop machine before marmalade gets completely combined with ice cream.
Transfer ice cream to a large sealed container, and freeze until set, at least 4 hours.