Serious Eats: Recipes

The Secret Ingredient (Marmalade): Creamcicle Ice Cream with Chocolate Chunks

[Photographs: Kerry Saretsky]

Marmalade is a preserve made of citrus fruits, usually studded with the bitter rind of the fruit itself. While it can be made of lemons or limes, grapefruits or clementines, the traditional marmalade uses the Seville orange (although the best one I've ever had was made from oranges and tangerines, making it just slightly sweeter).

Marmalade is one of those polarizing ingredients: either you love it and smother your toast with it, or its bitter-sweetness makes your tongue shrivel in protest. The Secret Ingredient's marmalade recipes are a compromise. I can't promote just bitter-sweet jam on toast, but to overlook the complexity of marmalade in different applications is just as foolhardy. The texture makes it perfect for thick sauces like in last week's Orange Peel Shrimp. And its warring bitterness and sweetness adds such depth to the otherwise very sweet chocolate chip ice cream in this recipe.

I don't know what could go better with orange than vanilla or chocolate, so why not throw in both? A very vanilla ice cream studded with dark chocolate gets a ribbon of runny marmalade throughout it, adding creamsicle sweetness and candied orange rind bitterness all at once. The result is unexpected, sophisticated, and simple. Perfect if you want to impress, or just make sneaky trips to the freezer for some scoops (just like with any other ice cream).

About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way. She also writes the French in a Flash series for Serious Eats.

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