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Dinner Tonight: Slow-Roasted Salmon with Cabbage, Bacon, and Dill

[Photograph: Blake Royer]

"Try cooking salmon like this, and you might never cook it any other way again," claimed this recipe I found on Global Gourmet, taken from Michael Schlow's cookbook It's About Time: Great Recipes for Everyday Life. I had to put those big words to the test; having cooked salmon by poaching in oil, poaching in water, grilling, roasting, and broiling with a glaze, this method would have to be pretty impressive to beat them all.

The slow-cooking of fish is meant to turn the flesh particularly succulent—even custardy—so that it doesn't become dry or crumbly, which happens at higher heats. Poaching in oil is meant to accomplish the same thing, but I'm sure of one thing: Throwing it in a low oven is a lot easier than using cups and cups of oil. Here it's paired with a mixture of cabbage, bacon, and onion, a kind of nod to Alsatian choucroute, which normally features pork, and makes this a satisfying cold-weather dish. It's an interesting pairing with the fish.

The fish was indeed wonderful, and I'd recommend this method, though I missed the boost of flavor that comes from high heat and caramelization. But either way, it's a good technique to add to your repertoire.

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