Serious Eats: Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Taquitos de Papa

Though I know the idea of a potato filling, like this one from Diana Kennedy's Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy, might seem too boring and starchy, it comes out absolutely delectable. The combination of waxy potatoes and the complex chili sauce comes together quickly and with little effort. It's so good that you could spoon this onto a store-bought tortilla and be done. I wouldn't complain.

But I'm going to try and convince you to spring for taking the long route. The small amount of lard gives everything a hearty pork kick, making them seem richer and more filling than they have any right to be. Plus, the masa slowly crisps up in the skillet, creating these gorgeous crunchy pockets that give way to a creamy, spicy filling. Like all great Mexican food, it's all about transforming simple ingredients into something truly memorable.

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