Serious Eats: Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Farfalle with Summer Squash

There are going to be too many summer squash and not enough time. It's a fact of summer, of joining a CSA program, or having a garden of your own. Once these plants get going, they don't seem to stop (I've heard stories of people leaving them on doorsteps and then running away). If you follow this column you've seen plenty of recipes featuring this summer vegetables—we've got your covered.

This recipe came out of an old school book off the shelf at my wife's parents' house called California Cookbook, a collection of recipes from the Los Angeles Times. I loved the simple headnote: "A Times staffer had this dish at El Toula in Milan and immediately acquired the recipe." It cooks the squash gently in butter until it begins to soften but is still crisp, then showers it with minced rosemary and cranks up the heat. The woodsy herb gives it a depth you wouldn't expect, but the dish remains light and simple. It comes together in the time it takes the pasta to boil.

About the author: Blake Royer founded The Paupered Chef with Nick Kindelsperger, where he writes about food and occasional travels. After a year in Estonia, he's now living in Chicago.

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