Serious Eats: Recipes
Bread Baking: Olive, Rosemary, and Feta Loaf
On Tuesdays, SE'r Donna "dbcurrie" Currie (Cookistry) stops by with a new bread recipe for you to try. Get out your bread pans and get bakin'! —The Mgmt.
I had a tasty slice of an olive bread the other day, and my first thought wasn't where to buy that bread but that I should make an olive loaf as soon as possible.
Sometimes that's all it takes for me to start working on a new recipe. I liked the olive bread, but I knew that anything I made would be better.
I wanted more than just olives and settled on rosemary as an additional flavor. And then I spied a jar of feta cheese packed in liquid in my fridge. I decided that both the feta and the liquid would be good in the bread.
If your feta cheese doesn't come in a liquid, just use water. If your feta is packed in liquid, taste it before you use it. It should taste sweet and milky and just a little bit salty. If it's a very salty brine, your yeast won't be happy, so use water instead.
I used dried rosemary because I didn't have any fresh on hand, and I chopped it up a little finer. I wanted it well distributed, and I also didn't want any long rosemary needles in the bread. You could also bash it in a mortar and pestle or whiz it in a spice grinder.
This bread cooks in a Dutch oven starting in a cold oven. It sounds a little strange, but it works well. It's similar to the method used for baking in a clay baker, which could shatter if it went into a hot oven. In this case, there's no danger of breaking your cast iron, but the method has several advantages.
- First, because it takes the interior of the Dutch oven a while to heat up, the yeast stays alive longer, and the dough keeps rising.
- Second, because of the moisture trapped inside the Dutch oven, the skin of the dough stays elastic longer, so it the rising is even and you're much less likely to get massive cracks as the dough expands from the heat.
- Third, because the Dutch oven is moderating the heat, the bread bakes more evenly, so you're less likely to get a lopsided and unevenly browned loaf.
Last, and most important on a hot summer day, if you start baking in a cold oven rather than preheating, your oven is on for a much shorter time. And if you don't want to turn your oven on at all, this works very well on a grill.
If you don't have a Dutch oven, or your oven is on for another purpose, just form the loaf the way you want to, let it rise fully, and bake as you normally would.
Olive, Rosemary, and Feta Loaf
About the author: Donna Currie has been cooking for fun and writing for pay since the days when typewritten articles traveled by snail mail. When she combined those talents in a food column for a newspaper in her area, she realized that writing about food is almost as much fun as eating. She most recently launched the blog Cookistry and has now joined the Serious Eats team with a weekly column about baking.