Serious Eats: Recipes

How to Make the Creamiest Scrambled Eggs

[Photographs: Cameron Mattis]

These are the scrambled eggs dreams are made of, or would be made of if you dreamed about scrambled eggs, which would be weird.

The ideal scrambled eggs have the texture of the interior of a soufflé, fluffy and light yet creamy and rich. Their flavor is pure, unadulterated egg, both more delicate and more flavorful than standard egg preparations.

To achieve these results you need to cook the eggs very lightly, which entails slow cooking over low heat. Though some chefs use a double boiler to make scrambled eggs, the more practical option for home cooks is to cook the eggs in a skillet, moving them on and off the burner to extend the cooking time. If you cook eggs slowly while constantly stirring, they will be unable to form any lumps, and will develop a texture more similar to that of fresh ricotta or a thick, emulsified sauce than that of standard scrambled eggs.

Butter and crème fraîche help to accentuate the creaminess of the eggs, but these components are less important than low heat and constant stirring.

If you can't find crème fraîche, you can finish the eggs with a little cold butter instead. In this recipe I stir a little minced parsley into the eggs for color and balance (chives and chervil work just as well). For a more luxurious dish, you can stir in smoked salmon, caviar, or black truffle.

With a cooking time of 15 to 20 minutes, these scrambled eggs aren't as convenient as the usual preparation, but in luxury and flavor, they're on a different plane.

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