Serious Eats: Recipes
Cook the Book: Pork Agnolotti with Tomato Marmellata and Crisp Pancetta
An airport is one of the last places you would ever think about eating an enjoyable meal at. And on that note, the kitchen of an airport restaurant would seem to be an unlikely spot for someone whose resumé includes time at WD-50 and Del Posto, but that's where you'll find Mario Carbone. Trained under Mario Batali and Mark Ladner, Carbone mans the kitchen at Aeronuova in the Jet Blue Terminal at New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport.
The concept of Aeronuova is basic—simple, seasonal, and affordable Italian food—but in the context of airport dining it's revolutionary. Carbone is putting out food that would be great even outside an airport, food that makes diners who are flying other airlines incredibly jealous (myself included).
This Pork Agnolotti with Tomato Marmellata and Crisp Pancetta adapted from the menu that Carbone contributed to Coco was inspired by a BLT, especially the B and T.
The agnolotti are handmade semolina pasta rectangles filled with braised pork shoulder. The tomato marmellata is essentially a quick caramelized tomato sauce made from perfectly sweet and tangy San Marzano tomatoes and topped with potato chip-crispy pancetta.
Making pasta and stuffing it by hand is not something to be tackled for a weeknight dinner—this recipe will set you back a few hours—but these are some of the most wonderful agnolotti I've ever had, including the ones that I've eaten out. The filling is rich and almost sweet in its porkiness and the tomato marmellata is the perfect foil—tart and fresh tasting. I was a bit surprised that the recipe didn't call for a grating of cheese or a glug or two of olive oil at the end, but with the crisp pancetta sprinkled on top it doesn't really need either.
As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Coco to give away this week.