Serious Eats: Recipes

The Crisper Whisperer: Apple, Goat Cheese, and Honey Tartlets

You may know Carolyn Cope as Umami Girl. She stops by on Tuesdays with ideas on preparing fruits and vegetables. —The Mgmt.

[Photograph: Carolyn Cope]

Like the most talented of actors, food plays a wide range of roles, from the utterly mundane to the grand and noble. When the right eater lucks into the right dish, little lies beyond their transformative capability. Food is a biography, communicating a person's essence to others, or a brightly lit mirror that helps her discover it herself. Sometimes it plays both those roles at once by bringing kindred spirits together.

Diminutive though they are, these Apple, Goat Cheese and Honey Tartlets have played all these roles in my life.

One afternoon a few years back, I heard their Siren call from the pages of an issue of Bon App├ętit. I love a simple dessert that is not too sweet, and I love a cheese plate even more. These little beauties were both rolled into one irresistibly dissonant individual serving. I knew I would have to make them soon.

That night we arrived at our friends' place for dinner to discover that they were serving the short ribs from the cover of that magazine. "About the dessert, though," they said in ominous tones. "There's goat cheese in it. you know." In my own irresistible dissonance, I didn't know whether to smother them with kisses or body-check them out of the way of those golden, sweet-savory pucks. In the end, none of us has any memory of which route I took, because to lift a forkful of this dessert to one's mouth is to forgive and forget all prior related transgressions.

Apple, Goat Cheese, and Honey Tartlets

About the author: Carolyn Cope writes Umami Girl and manages a CSA in Hoboken, New Jersey.

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