Serious Eats: Recipes

Cook the Book: Chili

"All along I had been searching for a chili that tasted like chiles, and this one was it."

[Photograph: Caroline Russock]

Recently I have been craving nothing but spicy food—really spicy food. Not just hot sauce spicy but tingling, lip-burning, spicy food that you know is a bad idea even when you are eating it. I've been seeking out the hottest Sichuan, the most chile-laden Mexican, and snapping up everything pepper-related in the market. My theory is it's a subconscious reaction to the frigid February weather but that doesn't make all that much sense because as far as I know, spicy food doesn't keep you any warmer.

Regardless, my craving for all things that rank on the Scoville scale goes on and all of the chiles that go into this recipe for Chili from Lucinda Scala Quinn's Mad Hungry caught my eye.

The recipe starts with toasting and grinding dried chiles into a deep red paste in lieu of the more common chili powder (a milder mix of dried chiles with many other aromatic but decidedly not very spicy spices). The other hot factors are pickled jalapeños, red chili flakes, and cayenne.

I've made countless batches of chili in my life. Many have been richly flavored, beefy, and smokey but none have been really hot. I was hoping that Quinn's version would be that chili.

To amp up the heat, I left most of the seeds of the dried peppers intact and added the jalapeños and red chili flakes with a heavy hand. I was a bit worried about killing the flavor with too much spice but the finished chili had a wonderful balance of dark, beefy chili flavor and a kick that was right where I wanted it.

Making a batch of chili without using chili powder was a real eye-opener. I've always found that jarred chili powder has a staleness to it, even a vaguely chalky character, but this powderless chili had none of that. The ground chile paste had an amazing depth and the pickled jalapeños provided an acidity that I've never encountered in chili before. All along I had been searching for a chili that tasted like chiles, and this one was it.

This chili was a big crowd-pleaser at my house, and easy enough to double or even triple for a game day crowd. If you have any hungry chili aficionados joining you for Sunday's game, Quinn's dried chile accented chili would make a wonderful centerpiece.

Win Mad Hungry

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Mad Hungry to give away this week.

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