Serious Eats: Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Jacques Pépin's Spicy Ginger and Lemon Chicken

[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

Jacques Pépin knows his way with chicken. Whether it's his crisp-skinned thigh recipe or the fun split-roasted chicken from his show, More Fast Food My Way, I'd trust him with any bird I brought home.

Which may explain why I jumped at this recipe from Food and Wine before really reading the directions—it seemed destined for success.

Sautéed first, then braised, it featured no less than three kinds of citrus and loads of spice. I was expecting something to knock me over with flavor. What else would you expect from a dish called spicy ginger and lemon chicken? But this dish has other plans.

It doesn't smack you over the head with flavor. Instead, it's just pleasantly fragrant and calming, the kind of competent dish that most people would be thrilled to have on any giving weekday night.

But it wasn't nearly as good as that crisp-skinned chicken thigh recipe I dream about at night, and for that reason along I'm a little disappointed. Ah well. It was delicious nonetheless.

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