Serious Eats: Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Tomato Sauce with Mushrooms and Anchovy

[Photograph: Blake Royer]

Since I eat simple pastas with tomato sauce so often, I'm always on the lookout for new approaches to the subject—especially now. During the summer, the quality of tomatoes is so good I'm happy to just chop them up and let them marinate with some garlic and basil, tossed with hot pasta and pillowy clouds of mozzarella. But in this seemingly interminable winter, those days seem far off. Tomato sauces need a little something interesting to make the cut.

That's why I turned to this sauce in my standby cookbook, Cucina Rustica, which packs two known umami-bombs into one recipe: the pungent anchovy and the common white mushroom. Together they deepen and enrich the sauce without a lot of simmering time. Rather than the more common pairing of basil with tomato, rosemary steps in and gets along quite well.

About the author: Blake Royer founded The Paupered Chef with Nick Kindelsperger, where he writes about food and occasional travels. After a year in Estonia, he's now living in Chicago.

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