Dinner Tonight: Patty Melt

[Photographs: Nick Kindelsperger]
As I found out from an epic post on eGullet, a patty melt is a very definite thing. You can dress up a burger in many different ways but the patty melt is locked in stone. It only has a few ingredients, all of which are crucial. Rye bread provides the foundation and the Swiss cheese is a natural partner. Then it's just grilled onions and a hamburger. Thanks to the interplay of all the ingredients, you don't need ketchup or mustard. Believe me, I tried a little of both and it was oddly distracting.
It only has a few ingredients, all of which are crucial.
The only trick I could discern from Saveur is to cook the burger and onions separately, combine them on the sandwich with a couple cheese slices, then griddle the whole thing. The sandwich comes out of the pan all buttered and crisp on top with two slices of melted Swiss cheese, griddled onions, and a perfectly cooked patty inside. It's a wonder.
This is honestly the first time I've ever made one from scratch. I'm going to have to change that.

Patty Melt
- serves 2 -
Adapted from Saveur.
Ingredients
8 ounces ground beef
1 small onion, thinly sliced
4 slices rye bread
4 slices Swiss cheese
2 tablespoons Canola oil
2 tablespoons butter, room temperature
Salt and black pepper
Procedure
1. Divide the meat into two balls. Form each one into a 1/4-inch patty that is just slightly larger than the slices of bread. Season each patty generously with salt and pepper.
2. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a small skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until browned, about 10 minutes or so. Set aside.
3. Heat a large cast iron skillet over high heat. Pour in the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. When it's hot, add the burger patties. Cook for about 2 minutes per side. They should be well browned, but still slightly medium or medium-rare inside. Set aside.
4. Top two of the slices of bread each with some onions, a slice of cheese, cooked patty, another slice of cheese and finally a slice of bread. Slather each sandwich on top and bottom with the butter.
5. Wipe out the skillet. Then turn the heat to medium. Add the sandwiches. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes a side, or until the bread is golden browned and the cheese has melted.Slice in half diagonally and serve.
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27 Comments:
I had my first Patty Melt over 40 years ago at The International House of Pancakes (no, it wasn't yet referred to as IHOP). I've been hooked ever since and whenever I see it on a menu it's a given I'm gonna get it. Don't want to try this at home because it just won't seem as special anymore...even though it may be better.
bessfour at 4:48PM on 10/21/09
I like mine with american cheese and yes I still love the rye bread. I got both of my sons hooked on these as well. Very good eats!
Lvn4life at 4:57PM on 10/21/09
You would think with all the e coli concern, one wouldn't show a picture of a rare burger, or not include in the recipe to cook the patty to 160F
Meat guy at 5:01PM on 10/21/09
@Nick - so you don't have to 'bind' the patty at all? I've had sooo many troubles with meatballs and patty's because they fall apart or crumble: what am I doing wrong?
I agree "Rye bread provides the foundation and the Swiss cheese is a natural partner"...rye + swiss = a recipe for a good sandwich! In particular I constantly crave a mean monté cristo done as such...uh oh. I may have to have one tonight.
hungrychristel at 5:05PM on 10/21/09
@Nick: I might have to go to my decidedly not reputable local market and get some ground beef to whip one of these up tonight. Thanks for the idea.
@Meat guy: How do you get from "e coli concern" to not showing a picture of a rare burger. Leaving aside that I have no idea how you can declare that burger to be rare, I'll address the overreaction to e coli fears. If you, as I'm guessing Nick did in this case, grind the meat yourself, your chances of e coli are somewhere around zero. If you buy your meat from a butcher who grinds fresh chuck, then once again the chances of e coli are somewhere around zero. If you buy your ground beef from a store with standards like Costco that actually tests the meat they buy before they put it on the shelves, once again, your chances of e coli problems are about zero. Caution is a good thing and making sure that your beef comes from a safe source is certainly a good idea, but paranoia gets in the way of some excellent eats.
@hungrychristel: Try mixing an egg into your ground beef (one egg per pound). I don't think it affects the taste at all and the egg works binding magic.
Daniel Zemans at 5:27PM on 10/21/09
I'm beginning to think that America is losing its sandwich heritage. Often as not, when I see a patty melt on a menu it includes American cheese by default. It was a major shock when I was first served that monstrosity. It may be a fine hamburger with a twist on the bread. It is not a patty melt. Any eatery that has to be asked to substitute Swiss for American cheese will end up serving an inferior product. You are better off going with a straight hamburger or having a salad.
tankwatkins at 6:00PM on 10/21/09
@hungrychristel - I never use a binder for my burgers and I pack them very loosely. I find that refrigerating the patty for at least ten minutes after forming helps them stay together while cooking.
ESNY1077 at 7:05PM on 10/21/09
Zemans! Not that egg nonsense in your burgers again. A burger is beef, salt, pepper. When are we going to have our taste-off to prove you wrong?
Blake Royer at 8:18PM on 10/21/09
Excellent post. I sometimes forget about the patty melt: it's a totally perfectly balanced classic. Much better than the traditional "burger in a bun". It's the rye bread that does it.
On the subject of 'eggs or no eggs', my dad always uses egg to bind his burgers but I don't generally add egg to mine, so I've extensive experience of both sides of the argument. Imho, it definitely helps keep them together and it doesn't really affect the taste, but I do feel it affects the texture slightly--it can make them a little too mushy.
Richard @ The Bewildered Brit at 9:48PM on 10/21/09
I love patty melts, the combination of the cheese, meat and onions, simple but tastes so great, but, i have a problem: here in mexico (or at least in my city) is impossible to find rye bread, when i travel to the US i always look for a place to eat a patty melt. I have an IHOP here in my town, maybe i should check if they sell patty melts.
Ivelisse at 9:55PM on 10/21/09
I made one with bison the other night. Heavenly ... if you like bison, that is.
Lorenzo at 10:53PM on 10/21/09
I concur about the bison, but ground bison steak is not fatty enough. You'd need to get some ground bison that is around 90/10 and use a little butter.
FreshAmericanBison.com at 1:06AM on 10/22/09
I love rye bread (make my own) ,but have never thought to use it for a burger. I'll be making one of these on my next burger night. Swiss and onions for me too. And I don't see how anyone can say that's a rare burger, there's just not enough visible to make that call.
dmcavanagh at 5:54AM on 10/22/09
For those who prefer the swiss versus the american cheese - my preference is based upon an allergy to swiss, SANS the american cheese. Either way, enjoy!
Lvn4life at 8:45AM on 10/22/09
I'm sorry, but the meat is pink, that means under 156 degrees f. Testing negative means that the small sample taken from the much much larger batch is clean, a few ounces out of up to 10000 LB.
What I really don't understand is how people can know there is a potential risk and deny that it could effect them or their families. I never got sick before so it won't happen to me. Odds are somewhere around Zero? well Does one in a million count? That might mean 6 people in Chicago get sick from the meat. Food safety is important, but you people think it doesn't relate to your own actions, what about Listeria, staph, Salmonella and C perfringens? don't worry about those because it is beef?
Grow up, be responsible for your actions, be serious about your eats.
Meat guy at 8:56AM on 10/22/09
@Meat guy - Do you not cross the street because there is certainly a risk you will get hit by a car? If you want to eat meat well done, knock yourself out. That doesn't mean everyone else has to or you can't show medium rare burgers.
ESNY1077 at 9:24AM on 10/22/09
Mmm. The Woolworth's lunch counter had my first Patty Melt and the standard for all others. I haven't thought about that sandwich in years, but have just made myself a note, to cook one very soon. Fries or chips?
Rocquie at 10:02AM on 10/22/09
I cross the street, but make sure I do it safely. Don't sue the meat producer when you get sick and its your fault. Don't expect me to feel sorry for you when you get food poisoning from any source you could have prevented.
Meat guy at 10:27AM on 10/22/09
The patty melt has always been my thing and growing up in Los Angeles I've ingested quite a few from delis, diners, hamburger stands, and restaurants.
While I don't have a "go-to" per say for my perfect melt, I can share the best two I've had in recent memory.
Best standard came from an old school diner attached to the Linbrook Bowling Center in Anaheim, CA. It was under $5, came with fries, and was greasily perfect. I came here pulling off the freeway in search for lunch, saw the bowling alley, and vaguely remember Huell Howser on PBS going there for pizza. Thank you Huell!
On the complete opposite price spectrum I had my first, and probably only, $20 patty melt. Prior to walking into the "Boneyard Bistro" in Sherman Oaks, CA, I had no idea such a thing existed.
It was called the “Southwest Patty Melt” and came with gruyere and cheddar cheese, sautéed onions, anaheim chilies, and bacon. It sounds crazy to pay $20 for a patty melt, but after one bite I practically fell out of my chair in a pool of smiles.
Mike13241 at 11:22AM on 10/22/09
My absolute favorite burger! Unfortunately, I find that they're hard to find. I always get it from Johnny Rocket's though -- they make a really good one.
tonisan9 at 12:13PM on 10/22/09
I made this tonight (Fri. 10/23), and it tastes more like a roast beef sandwich than a burger. Not a bad thing, but not exactly what I was expecting. I miss pickles and Heinz 57 sauce, they are my usual burger condiments.
dmcavanagh at 9:52PM on 10/23/09
Friendly's, people. Friendly's. Best patty melt ever.
missbhavens at 4:50PM on 10/24/09
Coincidentally, I had my first patty melt last night at IHOP. I don't recall hearing of them before, but perhaps this article got into my subconscious. I didn't notice it with my full conscious until today. And by the way, it was really delicious. Can't imagine how I missed it all these years.
lambowner at 8:37PM on 10/24/09
I just finished making this delicious patty melt.... thanks for the nudge to make an old favorite.
Great, simple recipe.
judij at 8:56PM on 10/24/09
I used to get one whenever I stopped at a HoJo's (used to be plentiful along the nation's highways). I've also had some good ones in local NYC diners. But the best are the ones I make at home! Yum.
Yes, there is nothing to add. they are perfection as-is. I do like to dip mine in ketchup however, dipping as I eat. But since the NYTimes expose on commercially ground meat, I will only eat ground meat I grind myself, so good-bye road-burgers of any kind.
Trilby at 11:00AM on 10/26/09
i think it needs sauerkraut!
Gizmosma at 11:19AM on 10/26/09
This is my favorite grilled sandwich!
I used to eat them at Astro's, in Los Angeles. (The one on Santa Monica Blvd.) They do not use Swiss cheese, but as I cannot eat it anyway, that was fine. I ordered them with their unbelievable onion rings...large, homemade, and served in a generous portion.
To make them at home, I'd go to Canter's deli on Fairfax, and get the rye bread from their bakery section, (It wasn't always easy to find a good rye, once upon a time, at least where I was.) and then pretty much make them as instructed above. Mmmmm! :)
For those who mentioned bison, I switched to it several years ago, and buy the meat from a local ranch. I don't care for the pre-ground, so have been grinding all of my own meat since the 80's, and don't find the bison we eat too dry to form into patties which hold together. I use sirloin steaks/roasts the most often, and use a heavy-duty food processor with the metal blade. Perhaps you would have better luck grinding your own, too?
Patty melts are on the menu for Friday....I can barely wait! :)
TamalePrincess at 6:06PM on 10/28/09