The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream
Note: Throughout October, Kerry's secret ingredient is liquid smoke.

[Photographs: Kerry Saretsky]
Liquid smoke has long held my fascination, but I was a novice before experimenting with it for this column. My first impressions? It costs only a couple of dollars, can be found near the barbecue sauce, and looks like diluted soy sauce. I found it in hickory and mesquite varieties, and though I used hickory for these recipes, just go wherever your heart takes you.
Kind of like rose water, liquid smoke is more of an essence that hits your nose than a taste that hits your tongue.
Does it provide the same smokiness that actually smoking a piece of meat for hours would? No. But it can free up some time while adding a subtle smokiness to unlikely ingredients that can't otherwise be smoked, like the sour cream in this black bean soup. I think it's a little bottle of untapped genius. Just remember, as with genius, too much liquid smoke is never a good thing. Nobody wants to bite into something that tastes like ash.
My goal with this Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream was to make a soup that's hearty and wholesome, but also delicate and gourmet. I underpin the smokiness in the sour cream with slices of smoked bacon and cumin in the soup, but you could even enhance the smokiness by substituting chipotles for the jalapeno. The texture is velvety-chunky, and to go on top, this cool, creamy, lime-smoked sour cream tastes like it came out of some restaurant's twelve-course tasting menu. And all you did was add a few drops of liquid smoke to a dollop of Daisy.

Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream
- serves 2 -
Ingredients
1 teaspoon light olive oil
2 slices center-cut bacon, diced
1/2 medium onion, diced
1/2 green bell pepper, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 jalapeno, seeded and finely diced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1 29-ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed
1 bay leaf
1 quart vegetable stock
1/4 cup sour cream
1/2 tablespoon (1 1/2 teaspoons) liquid smoke
Zest of 1/2 lime
Cilantro

Procedure
1. Get a big soup pot hot over medium heat. Add the light olive oil, followed immediately by the bacon. Sweat the bacon a minute or two to render its fat, then add the onion, green bell pepper, garlic, and jalapeno. Sweat for 4 minutes. Add the cumin and coriander, and sweat for 30 seconds.

2. Add the beans and bay leaf to the pot. Add the vegetable stock. Bring to a boil, and then lower the heat. Simmer covered for 20 minutes, and then continue to vigorously simmer the soup uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes until you have reached your desired consistency.
3. Take the pot off the heat, and use an immersion blender to just slightly blend the soup, leaving most of it chunky, but making it slightly thicker and creamier.
4. Meanwhile, make the smoked sour cream. Whisk the sour cream together with the liquid smoke and the lime zest. Dollop on the hot black bean soup, and tear a few cilantro leaves over the top.
About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way. She also writes the French in a Flash series for Serious Eats.
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7 Comments:
I don't use liquid smoke ever. It is not what I would put in my food http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_smoke
You could in place of this concoction roast the green pepper, add hickory smoked salt or hickory smoked bacon, even a few shots of chipotle hot sauce to this and skip the tar sauce.
JerzeeTomato at 2:55PM on 10/09/09
@Jerzee: Sorry, but for the second time this week, I have to question your safety advice. While there's every indication that liquid smoke has toxic and mutagenic effects, the fact that it's filtered makes it much safer than other ways of achieving smoke flavor. Basically, it's smoke flavoring withOut the tar--the opposite of what you're claiming.
skizziks at 4:25PM on 10/09/09
Great article, by the way, Kerry! I'm a big fan of this series...
skizziks at 4:26PM on 10/09/09
Oh, and here's a good survey of health studies regarding liquid smoke, for anyone wanting more of a mood kill:
http://www.inchem.org/documents/jecfa/jecmono/v22je07.htm
skizziks at 4:49PM on 10/09/09
@skizz I never give safety advise I give my opinion. What you eat is your choice and you are entitled to it. But if your going to accuse me of something make sure you get that right.
I gave some reasonable alternatives to using liquid smoke for those who chose not to and I always will.
JerzeeTomato at 6:44PM on 10/09/09
@Jerzee: Sorry if I seemed harsh; of course you're free to eat whatever makes you happy. I just read your comment as a recommendation for healthier alternatives to liquid smoke, and thought it was important to note that the liquid smoke is probably safer, according to lab testing done so far. Sorry for doing that in an accusatory way.
skizziks at 7:25PM on 10/09/09
Would it be possible to have some recipes without bacon, please? I know I can just leave it out, but it seems almost every dish here is bacon-enhanced.
piccola at 7:28PM on 10/10/09