Serious Eats: Recipes
French in a Flash: 'Summer' Lobster Sandwiches with Zucchini Frites and Heirloom Tomato Salad
I hate the summer: the heat, the ennui. Labor Day is the weekend I look forward to for months—when I start imagining the first of the cool fall breezes and the first day of school (yes, I was one of those kids). It's my real New Year. As summer takes one last gasp, I finally let myself enjoy the heat, perching at a picnic table full of sandwiches, and I find myself a pool somewhere. There is urgency to Labor Day: grill, tan, sweat. It's now or never.
I wanted to give you the recipe that I will be making for la famille this Labor Day. As some of you read in my post last week, my favorite sandwich this year is the lobster sandwich from Daniel Rose's restaurant Spring in Paris. Since so many of you thought it looked amazing (which it is), I thought I'd try to recreate it in my own kitchen. All it took was some local Florida spiny lobster, fresh citrus, chives, celery, and mayonnaise.
I took my first bite d'homard when I was in cooking school in Paris this summer. We were in the kitchen nine hours a day, six days a week. In fact, I was so exhausted and so overwhelmed with food that I hard ate anything. So when my best friend suggested we trek up towards Montmartre for lobster sandwiches, I figured it was about time I sat down, let someone else do the cooking, and ate.
In this tiny hole of a shop were a few communal tables. We sat down, and out came the lobster sandwiches in all their glory: whole chunks of claw, masses of tail, sweet and succulent. It wore this kind of gossamer robe of mayonnaise and citrus sauce made from fresh oranges, spiked with a crunch of celery, on a white-wheat baguette that was sweet itself. And with it we had goose fat frites with good coarse salt. I think we sat there, just sitting and eating, our own little Labor Day holiday, for two hours.
To my version I add a touch of lime and lemon, and in celebration of summer I serve it with zucchini fries and an heirloom tomato salad. I call these "Summer" Lobster Sandwiches because they are modeled on Spring's, and are a celebration of the season. I know lobster is a luxury, but you work hard—this Labor Day you should reward yourself.
About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way. She also writes the The Secret Ingredient series for Serious Eats.