Serious Heat: Silky, Spicy Mole Sauce
Note: On Wednesdays, Andrea Lynn, senior editor of Chile Pepper magazine, drops by with Serious Heat.
What is it about the smoky pep of a chile combined with the rich goodness of dark chocolate? The duo doesn't necessarily have to be saved for dessert either. Welcome to the wonders of mole! There are many types of mole sauce--combos include a variety of chiles, garlic, onion and spices, sometimes with a little chocolate snuck in. Pumpkin seeds, raisins, and plantains can also make their way into the smooth, flavorful sauce.
This recipe from one of my favorite cookbooks, The New Steak by Cree LeFavour, is so good that the first time I made it, I had to use restraint not to lick the plate clean. It proves yet again that chiles and chocolate are a dreamy combination.
Black Mexican Chocolate Sauce
- serves 4 -
Adapted from The New Steak by Cree LeFavour.
Zest Factor: Medium
Note: In the cookbook, LeFavour drowns this delicious sauce over a porterhouse, but I've used the sauce for everything, including cooking chicken in it, shredding the meat and eating it with tacos.
Ingredients
1 dried pasilla chile, seeded and chopped (reserve the seeds)
2 chipotles in adobo, seeded and chopped
1 cup cooked black beans
1 ounce dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup almonds, toasted
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
2 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
Procedure
1. Rehydrate the pasilla chile by pouring broiling water over it, and allowing it to soak for half an hour.
2. When you're ready to make the sauce, pull the chile open and seed it. Chop coarsely and put in a blender or food processor with the chipotles, black beans, chocolate, almonds and salt. Blend, adding the stock slowly, allowing the blades to do their work as the sauce things out.
3. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan, and gently sauté the garlic and shallots over low heat. Once they're soft, add them to the blended chocolate-chile mix, and blend again.
4. Transfer the sauce to a saucepan, and simmer for 10 minutes. Keep an eye on it to avoid scalding because the chocolate and nuts are delicate.
5. The sauce should have a subtle but definite heat and enough salt to bring out the diverse flavors. If the sauce needs to be spicier, add some of the reserved chile seeds or add a low-acid hot sauce such as Marie Sharp's.
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20 Comments:
dumb question: how do i use it once i make it? is it just used to sauce things, or do you actually cook things in it?
carriebwc at 10:15AM on 09/09/09
Thank you SOOOOOOO much! This is my absolute favorite dish in a Mexican restaurant (followed closely by menudo).
I had a great recipe for mole and made it many years ago - and now can't find the book. Definitely looking forward to giving this one a try.
therealchiffonade at 10:20AM on 09/09/09
How long would this keep refrigerated? My favorite chili recipe uses a bit of mole, and I'd love to have it on hand...
Cary at 10:31AM on 09/09/09
@cary, i bet you could freeze it. if you only need a bit, use that old standby the ice cube tray to freeze small portions.
carriebwc at 10:58AM on 09/09/09
this looks great, a "quick" mole without 25 ingredients in it--I am going to try it asap!
jinx35 at 11:57AM on 09/09/09
I wonder how Mexican chocolate would work in this.
Michael Z at 12:00PM on 09/09/09
I'm with @jinx35 - SO excited to see a mole recipe that doesn't make me want to just close the cookbook (or browser tab).
joyyy at 12:16PM on 09/09/09
The one time I had mole sauce I loved it. I haven't found a version since that's been as good so I'm excited to try this out.
LttlMichey at 3:49PM on 09/09/09
...Hi...just recently discovered SeriousEats via my Google Reader, and I love the blog...had to comment on the mole recipe: mom prepares the best mole, and basically uses a version of this recipe, although she does not add black beans but adds a banana, 1 small block of dark chocolate, roasted ajonjoli and a pinch of sugar; try it like that and let me know; I'll tell her about the black beans...many thanks...
anitae1 at 4:40PM on 09/09/09
...sorry, did not see this recipe does have dark chocolate as an ingredient, but you should try adding the banana, ajonjoli and sugar...
anitae1 at 4:44PM on 09/09/09
This looks positively awesome. Ever since Rick Bayless made his sweep on Top Chef I've made it my mid-year resolution to tackle more classic mexican dishes. Will def make this soon!
thanks!
BigGirlPhoebz at 6:11PM on 09/10/09
That sure looks GOOD and I'm drooling again and want to get some good mole.The last time I had good mole [and it was phenominal] was in 1973 in San Jose Del Cabo, Baja Sur at one of the few small family resturantes and taquerarias. There were no paved roads in the town only the town Plaza had terra cotta pavers and hotels weren't strung out along the beaches from there to Cabo San Lucas, and we camped on the beach for $1US a day and a meal was under $2US. I know mole is great if done right, but every time I have decided to order it, the chocolate has been burnt and I don't think anyone will disagree 'BURNT CHOCOLATE SUCKS' and ruins a would be terrific meal. I've only ordered it when the resturant advertises their famous family recipe mole sauce, only to be disappointed. I will keep trying to get some good mole and have decided to send it back as inedible from now on and leave never to return to that establishment. Living in San Diego County one would think every mexican resturant would have a decent mole at least, but there are obviously too many laborers who think they can cook! Has anyone found a good mole in S.D. County Iam sure there are some if not many but I have missed them so far, and I'll try almost any resturant topshelf to dive as long as it is relatively clean.
butterfingers at 2:18PM on 09/12/09
The problem with most restaurant moles is that they are pre-packaged, not made from scratch. It's all but impossible to find really good mole in the USA unless the cook takes the time to toast and grind all the traditional ingredients--and there can be as many as 40 ingredients in mole.
The mole in the posted recipe might taste good, but isn't traditional. Black beans, dark chocolate, olive oil and shallots? Not in any mole in Mexico--at least not in my 30 years' experience of living and cooking here.
Cristina
Mexico Cooks!
http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com
MexicoCooks at 7:51PM on 09/14/09
I used to love the chicken mole with white meat (!?!) At Jalepeno's when I lived in Santa Cruz- the sauce was awesome when I'd go in the evening/early night. In my experience there and in the SF Mission, timing is important. In the Mission mole is unusual, since since the people here are mostly Central American; usually from El Salvadore, Oaxaca, and Guatemala. However, one of my favorite non-dive hispanic places, Panchita's 3 on 24th near BART, has an excellent airline wing in mole. I keep wanting to make a big batch, I love all the different peppers available here. Maybe this weekend!
Ravara at 1:35AM on 09/15/09
...Cristina, my mom and I think this recipe is as close as possible to a traditional recipe! we have lived all of our lives in Reynosa, Tamaulipas, Mexico; mom is 74 yrs old, and has been making mole for at least 40yrs...and the only ingredient in this recipe she has never used are the black beans, but in addition to the other ingredients, she has always used a banana, roasted ajonjoli, peanut butter and the dark chocolate, of course, has always been a main ingredient of her mole recipe...
anitae1 at 6:41AM on 09/15/09
Anita, does your Mom really use a square of dark chocolate, or does she use a tableta de chocolate amargo (or semi-amargo)? Does she really use olive oil, or does she use manteca? And does she really use shallots?
A banana is great, and ajonjoli and peanut butter. Her mole casero must be fantastic! Next time I'm passing through Reynosa, maybe I can try it.
You're so fortunate to have your mother with you to share her recipes and her love.
Cristina
http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com
MexicoCooks at 10:22AM on 09/15/09
What I really want to know is a recipe for the tacos that are pictured in this post
Trendyguy at 6:01PM on 09/16/09
I agree with Cristina @mexicocooks.
butterfingers at 1:39PM on 09/18/09
@Trendyguy - I think those are Enchiladas.
butterfingers at 3:53PM on 09/18/09
Black beans and only two types of chilli? Oh, the horror!
oh_no_eric at 11:00PM on 09/18/09