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The Crisper Whisperer: Escarole and Bean Soup with Pistachio Pesto

20090921escarolebeansoup.jpg

In the Crisper

Featured Veg: Escarole
Prep: Wash in several changes of water
Eat: Raw in salad, sautéed, in soup
Substitute: Kale, collards, spinach (cooked in soup) or bitter salad greens (raw)

Did you see the movie Juno a few years back? I thought she was such an appealing character. She really had my respect, my loyalty. I was with her through the teen pregnancy, and when she started spending too much time with the married dude, and even when she ding-dong-ditched like a complete spaz. I was there for her, man.

But we parted ways big time when she made fun of The Girl Who Smelled Like Soup. Probably you don't even remember that part. Probably I wouldn't either if it hadn't sent a prickly chill of recognition down my spine.

Here's the thing, though. I'm the girl who smells like soup. I smell like soup on this very day. I'm quite certain that I showed up to high school on more than one occasion smelling like soup as well.

And do you know what, Juno? Soup smells good. Today is a pretty good day. Even if we can't be friends.

Serious eaters, why am I laying this sad argument between me and a fictional high schooler on all of you? Two reasons, my friends. One: I'm just a little miswired like that. Two: When one of you asked for advice on how to use escarole, this soup--an updated version of the one that perfumed my childhood bookbags--is the recipe I wanted to share with you.

This soup is inseparable from the complex aromas that belie its quick and easy nature; and if we're being honest here, those aromas are inseparable from, well, me. All of which is to say that I'm just a little miswired like that. So only one reason, really. But a mighty fine, soup-smelling reason it is. If I do say so.

Quick Escarole and Bean Soup with Pistachio Pesto

- serves 4 -

Ingredients

1 head escarole
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic cloves, chopped
4 anchovy fillets
1/2 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary
2 cans (15.5-ounce each) cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
1 can (14.50-ounce) diced tomatoes with their juices
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
A generous amount of freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
One recipe Pistachio Pesto, for serving (see below)

Procedure

1. Chop the escarole crosswise and wash as directed In the Crisper. Drain, but do not dry.

2. Heat the olive oil over medium-low heat in a medium pot. Add the chopped garlic, anchovy fillets, and minced rosemary and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant and the anchovies have almost completely dissolved. Add the chopped escarole and raise the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, for a few minutes, until the escarole has wilted.

3. Meanwhile, combine one can of beans with half the chicken stock in a blender and blend until completely puréed. (Alternatively, combine these ingredients in a large bowl and use an immersion blender.)

4. Add the bean-stock mixture to the pot, along with the remaining beans and stock, the diced tomatoes with their juices, the grated cheese, and the pepper. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice.

5. Ladel into bowls and serve with a spoonful of Pistachio Pesto

Pistachio Pesto

Ingredients

1/4 cup raw, unsalted, shelled pistachios
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Zest of 1/2 lemon, grated on a rasp
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 cups basil leaves, lightly packed
1/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Procedure

1. In a small skillet, toast the pistachios over low heat until lightly browned and fragrant.

2. Combine the pistachios, salt, pepper, lemon zest and juice, and basil leaves in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade. Pulse until the pistachios are very finely chopped. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil through the feed tube.

3. Remove the pesto to a small bowl and stir in the grated cheese.

About the author: Carolyn Cope writes Umami Girl and manages a CSA in Hoboken, New Jersey.

14 Comments:

Hmmmmm..... I've got fresh turkey stock in the refrig and a big bunch of rainbow chard. Have had a hankering for soup too....

I think this clinches it.

Do the anchovies make it deliciously salty or a tad fishy? I am wondering if I could sneak them by my people?

@pooroldmama: i'm thinking it'll make it deliciously salty.

i hated juno and love soup too. can't wait to try this out!

autumn is meant to be slurped through.

@PoorOldMama The anchovies are meant to add a layer of depth and not really a taste—but then I actually like the taste of anchovies, so if your people are really sensitive, don't take it from me. You could easily substitute a small amount of diced pancetta, bacon or Italian sausage, browned and removed before you cook the garlic and rosemary, and added back at the end. You could then omit the olive oil and use the pan drippings to sauté the garlic.

Thanks for the advice. I think I will sneak it in and see if they notice.

I took it to mean she smells like pasty instant soup, not yummy homemade soup. And I make a veggie version of this all the time -- if you have it, throw in the rind of some hard cheese, like Parmigiano or Romano, instead of grating the fresh cheese. Take it out before serving.

A vegetarian version of this is one of my favorites. It always reminds me of my Italian grandma. Actually, our last conversation was about my love for escarole soup.

The pistachio pesto is intriguing. Will have to give it a try this weekend!

@piccola - really? I chop up the rinds and make ribollita and I eat them. Yes, I eat cheese rinds; if you cook them enough they turn soft and chewy and ohsocheesy. I try to pick the paper out (off the Piave)

@Carolyn - hahaha I've heard that before and yes in Juno I hesitated but I learned that they mean smells like farts or cabbage soup. (Well, broccoli would be more accurate... I guess... but cabbage is the more often referred to one, for some reason.) I love it anyway but she wasn't trying to talk smack to you... promise :) You can still be friends.

This sounds so good! I really love the pistacio pesto. I don't have a food processor, though. Could I just combine all the ingredients with the oil in a big bowl and whack it with an immersion blender? Or should I quit being such a little bitch and just buy a damn food processor already?

@bkbella That's so lovely about your grandma. Mine's Italian, too. It's in the blood.

@piccola @feistyfoodie Yes, rinds of good cheese are a fabulous dirty trick for enriching soups and tomato sauces. The reason I didn't do that here is because the soup only simmers for ten minutes, and I wasn't sure that would be enough time to break it down. Maybe it is, though. I'm all for frugality where it works.

This is all very interesting about the soup smells. Maybe there's a chance for me and Juno after all. I could be okay with hating on powdered soup as long as the secret love of my life Lipton Onion Dip is excepted. And I'm no extraordinary fan of, shall we say, cruciferous odors either. Yeah, maybe we're okay. Juno, I love you, man.

@johnandrewwalsh Thanks! I think an immersion blender would work okay if you smashed up the pistachios a bit with a hammer first. A mortar and pestle would definitely work, too.

wow, I've never made a pistachio pesto--that really sounds amazing. But I'm right there with you when it comes to putting a dollop of pesto on top of my soups. My favorite combo: roasted tomato soup with crispy pancetta and basil pesto dotted on top. you have to try it! http://tinyurl.com/dn79ga

escarole and bean soup rocks. there is a place near my work that has this on their menu and I never would have thought to order it except my very italian coworker steered me towards it. I rarely leave a restaurant so satisfied. (It's also delicious with tomatoes - canned or otherwise).

C---
SO excited to try this recipe!!!! I LOVE escarole bean soup!!!
question though... any recommendations for making this for my dear hubby... would it work with veggie stalk? and would you recommend I just leave out the anchovies or sub them for something?! thanks much!

Hey @njscrapdiva You could totally use veggie stock, and it would be fine without the anchovies. Hope he likes it!

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