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Dinner Tonight: Baked Ziti

"The end result is not quite the fantastic cheesy gut-bomb so commonly associated with baked ziti."

dt-bakedziti.jpg

[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger]

I cannot recall the last time I ate baked ziti but know for a fact I never would have attempted the classic dish if not for finding this recipe in The Best Skillet Recipes from the editors of Cooks Illustrated. I don't think they have ever steered me wrong.

As a pasta lover, I make it often but usually indulge in simple preparations where the sauce acts mostly in the supporting role to the pasta. But baked ziti is all about the abundant combination of sauce, pasta, and cheese. It's heavy, filling, and meant to be an indulgence. I wondered whether Cooks Illustrated would elevate this classic or just embrace the excess. Luckily they go for the former.

The great thing about this recipe is that, as the cookbook advertises, everything happens in one pot. So the pasta literally cooks in the sauce, sucking up as much of the tomato flavor as it can possibly manage. Relatively light on the cheese, this substitutes a bit of heavy cream, which oddly makes the whole dish feel light. The end result is not quite the fantastic cheesy gut-bomb so commonly associated with baked ziti, but that's probably for the best. Still satisfying and creamy classic, this baked ziti is slightly more refined and definitely less greasy.

Baked Ziti

- serves 4 -
Adapted from The Best Skillet Recipes.

Ingredients

1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes
1 tablespoon olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper
3 cups water
12 ounces ziti
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 ounce Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
4 ounces mozzarella, shredded

Procedure

1. Preheat the oven to 475°F. Meanwhile, pour the whole can of tomatoes into a blender or food processor. Process until the tomatoes are roughly chopped, not pureed.

2. Pour the oil into a large oven-safe skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flake and cook for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Dump in the chopped tomatoes and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Pour in the water, stir, and then add the pasta. Turn the heat back up to medium-high. Cook until the pasta is tender, about 15 minutes.

4. Add the cream, Parmesan, and basil. Stir well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Then sprinkle the mozzarella on top. Place skillet in the oven and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and slightly browned.

View other entries from Dinner Tonight.

25 Comments:

how curious - why would you process the tomatoes (and dirty your food processor) when you could just buy a 28 oz. can of crushed tomatoes?

i've heard the argument that the most bruised lowest quality toms are sent to the crushed conveyor line, and better quality ones get sent to the whole can line. no idea if it's true...but there ya have it.

Sometimes Cooks Illustrated can be a little too picky.

I've heard (via Alton Brown perhaps?) that the farther along a canned tomato goes from whole, the more processing it goes through which will degrade its quality. Makes sense to me since diced tomatoes from a can often seem waterlogged and tasteless (IMHO).

I always buy whole canned tomatoes and "process" them myself.

This is an interesting question. I think somewhere along the line I stopped buying crushed tomatoes because I had heard that they were not as good as whole. Now, I can't tell you where I heard that but it's something that has, for whatever reason, stuck. Cooks Illustrated usually has their reasons, and I trust them.

And in a blind taste test, who can actually tell the difference?

Here's Cook's Illustrated's position:

"In the test kitchen, we've often avoided using crushed tomatoes because the differences among leading brands are so dramatic. The textures vary from watery and thin to so thick you could stand a spoon in it. You might get peels or no peels; plentiful seeds or none; big, rough-cut chunks of tomato or a smooth, sauce-like consistency with no chunks at all."

They go on to test a number of brands..Muir Glen and Hunts Organic among other less known brands were recommended. I say keep the food processor on the shelf if you can.

I was tempted to make this, but as written it seems like an awful lot of liquid for 12 oz pasta (water, the tomatoes, the cream...) Sounds like it would come out rather soupy, or pasta mush. I'll let someone else try it first and report back :)

Cook's Illustrated is my favorite source for dependable recipes. I tried this same recipe a couple of months ago and my family and I enjoyed it. I'm not a fan of cream sauces with pasta but I was pleasantly surprised with this one.

@jinx35 - perhaps, but I've definitely had the opposite problem with baked ziti.

I'd add that I appreciate that this recipe is vegetarian. I have been known to throw in some soy meatballs, which is tasty, but perhaps even unnecessary.

What's the over/under on how long it takes Cook's Illustrated to send a cease and desist letter, asking you to remove this recipe? (yes, it's "adapted," but they are very aggressive in protecting their intellectual property)

I wonder if you could swap some pureed ricotta or mascarpone for the cream.

There's a version of this in "The Best 30-Minute Recipe" that I make fairly regularly, but it adds the tomatoes and water all at once with the pasta so they all simmer together, no reducing of tomatoes first. I make it without the cream and find it quite filling, comforting, luxurious, etc. I'd rather have an extra ounce of cheese than 4oz of cream that just deadens the tomato flavor.

(I use Eden Organic Crushed Tomatoes, which come without salt, and adjust the seasonings as appropriate.)

I'm going on vacation this evening but as soon as I get back, I'm making this! It looks freakin' fantastic!

After rereading the recipe, Cooks Illustrated says they tested the crushed tomatoes, but the whole ones worked better.

@notamerican: Not sure about that. I know the cream sounds strange, but it's really an ingenius way to add body and creaminess without making the dish too heavy.

@mdeatherage: They say the cooking of the tomatoes first helps get rid of the that raw tomato taste.

I have the same recipe book, and I'm having a ball trying new recipes here and there. We just made the penne with olives and tomatoes and cannelinis, and wow, I was in serious shock about how good it was. Rich and hearty and quick! The whole thing took about 30 minutes, cooking time included. Cooks Illustrated (and America's Test Kitchen) are highly recommended for easy and tasty meals.

I'm making this tonight. I browned a couple of hot Italian sausages out of their casings and sauteed some diced onions before I added the garlic and tomatoes. I used crushed tomatoes instead of the whole, seems to have worked well. The taste that I've had of it is quite delicious, I think this will be my go-to baked ziti method from now on! It's definitely not too much liquid, it cooks up nice and al dente...just be sure to stir often, as the macaroni gets stuck to the bottom of the skillet (I didn't use non-stick).

I made it tonight with extra red pepper flakes (by accident, of course!). It was all great till my husband asked what was in it and I had to admit the heavy cream (I had hid the carton in the trash under some things). He said perhaps it was not very cholesterol friendly with sausage AND heavy cream. Big buzz kill.

Maybe not cholesterol friendly, but oh so yummy! :D

I made this tonight too, with a few hot sausages and a can of artichoke hearts added in. I pulled a superflake move at the grocery store and forgot to buy mozzarella, so I folded in 3-4 oz of goat cheese intead. Superb.

I cooked up a batch of this over the weekend, and it was incredible! Thanks so much for sharing!

It's not soupy at all, and I added extra red pepper flakes (on purpose). I also used half fontina and half mozzarella ( I didn't have quite as much mozzarella in the fridge as I thought), and it was still delicious! And if you don't have an oven-safe skillet, you can transfer it to a baking dish before putting it in the oven (as I had to do).

This recipe is much better if you use chicken stock or beef stock in place of the water.

"i've heard the argument that the most bruised lowest quality toms are sent to the crushed conveyor line, and better quality ones get sent to the whole can line. "

This is absolutely true. Here's the logic: If you had a perfect tomato, would you crush it to sell it? No.

Same goes for pre-sliced shrooms and other "prepared" veg. The stores and manufacturers and growers are not doing this out of the goodness of their hearts. They're doing it out of necessity. If a veg or fruit is bruised, it gets made into something else, with the rotted part cut out. THEN, they charge you more for it citing "processing" as an added expense. So you're paying more for food that no one wanted to buy in the first place. At least when Costco makes chix salad out of unsold rotisserie chix, they label it as "rotisserie chix salad." Moral of the story - buy your own mushrooms and slice them. That cut made by you indicates complete freshness by the shroom's white flesh - and not a veg that has been exposed to air for God knows how long then wrapped in plastic.

I believe that milk past its date is returned to the dairy, re-pasteurized and made into other products like chocolate milk - but I can't remember where I heard that so I hesitate to get behind the statement 100%.

Back to the recipe - I'm THRILLED that CI has printed a recipe for tomato sauce containing no sugar. Sugar in tomato sauce is an abomination and, like cans of crushed toms, is a way to mask "less than stellar" produce. If toms are so bad you have to add sugar, make something else.

One more thing - whole peeled toms that are FP'd will have no skins. I believe unless diced tomatoes are labeled as "skinless" the product will contain skins which some people don't like.

wow, this makes me want to buy a cook's illustrated cookbook now. I have been trying their oatmeal cookies (via smitten kitchen) and they are divine (if a *tiny* bit more crispy than what I would like). And now a one skillet recipe? w00t!

Just as an FYI, probably best to not use whole wheat pasta in this recipe. I made it using just that awhile back and the noodles completely disintegrated and became mushy. And to think that I was trying to balance a bit of health with the fatty deliciousness!

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