Serious Eats: Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Portobello Mushroom 'Burgers'

Well, I'm back at it again with a not-really-a-burger burger. Last time it was salmon and now I'm using the same word for a giant mushroom cap as a glorious, beefy patty. For a true burger lover, this is getting embarrassing. But once again, I must admit I was pleasantly surprised.

The recipe I used, adapted from Everyday Food, roasts the caps covered in a hot oven to concentrate their flavor and keep them tender (a trip to the grill, where a lot of mushroom burgers probably get cooked as consolation for the vegetarians, probably isn't the best route to juiciness). If this were my only knowledge of hamburgers, it would be a tragedy; but it was quite welcome as something a little different.

The other smart move in this recipe is the topping, which is an avocado-based spread. The recipe called for using horseradish and mustard mashed into the avocado, but I skipped them both in favor of minced shallots and lemon juice. Either way, the avocado was wonderful against the (yes, I'll say it) meaty mushroom. A tender bun that's easily bitten through is essential, because the mushroom has a tendency to slip out.

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