The Nasty Bits: Lamb's Neck Stew
Note: Our intern Chichi Wang loves offal so much, she pitched us this series called The Nasty Bits, where she'll explore recipes involving animal innards on a regular basis. Her goal is to tempt Serious Eaters out of their safety zones and into the wonderful world of offal. Take it away, Chichi!

Throughout history, cuisines around the world have championed animals in all their glory, carefully treating the innards, feet, jowls, and tails of beasts and fowl alike. Consuming this organ meat, or offal, arose from economic necessity, yet long before the frontiers of molecular gastronomy were braved, eating offal was a natural way to introduce interesting flavors and textures into dishes.
At what point, then, did we forsake these old customs? When did we begin to prefer flesh to the exclusion of offal, condemning the latter to the realm of the nasty and unsavory? For decades, offal devotees have searched far and wide, in butcher shops and restaurants, for any glimmer of hope. In recent years, we have begun to see signs of recognition among our peers, yet more is needed.

Nasty Bits Lovers, Unite! To embrace offal is to honor all that is delicious. Why limit one's palate to foods that are deemed "safe," when there is more to be tasted? Cow's tongue, braised and served in salsa verde, possesses the beefiness of cow with a uniquely creamy chew. A cold dish of pig ears, simmered and then thinly sliced, is wonderfully refreshing dressed in nothing more than sesame oil and soy sauce. And liver, perhaps the most maligned of innards, is a revelation when seared in bacon fat, rendering the organ so soft and unctuous in the center with a feral depth all its own.
The life of the principled omnivore is not always easy. Embrace offal, not just for its deliciousness, but because ignoring some parts of an animal while focusing on others is wasteful. And arguably, waste is the same as disrespect: a slight to the creature whose life has been lost for our sustenance and pleasure.
As a Nasty Bits lover, it took me some time to realize that not everyone grew up eating offal. My mother's kitchen was always filled with the aroma of tendon or gizzards braising in soy sauce and the sounds of chicken feet crackling in oil. When I was three, one of my favorite foods was her homemade chicken feet, which I would nibble with great gusto, taking particular satisfaction in spitting out the little segments of bone as I gnawed along.
In Shanghai, one of my favorite dishes is congealed chicken's blood made from a freshly slaughtered bird. In its congealed form, the blood takes on the consistency of the softest tofu, and it will most likely be cut up and served in chunks. Nestled in chicken broth and topped with green onions, the chicken's blood is so silken that it shimmies down the throat with barely a quiver.
But enough talk about blood. There will be plenty of time for that later. So as not to lose the faint-hearted in the first of a series, we begin with a fairly innocuous offering: lamb's neck simmered gently with a strong kick of lemon juice, for a stew faintly perfumed with thyme. While lamb's neck is neither an organ nor a strange appendage, it is certainly a lesser-known, underappreciated cut of the animal.
The neck muscles get plenty of exercise as the lamb lifts and lowers its head to graze; cooked over a longer period of time, the meat becomes soft and juicy, marbled throughout with just the right amount of fat. Eat the neck with relish right off the bone, nibbling around to retrieve the choicest slivers of meat and the occasional tendon.
This stew is actually very easy to make--there's no sweating of onions involved, and no carrots or celery to dice. Simply simmer the meat in stock or even water, and in less than an hour, you'll have achingly tender morsels of lamb swimming in a concentrated and heady broth.
Lamb's Neck Stew
Adapted from The River Cottage Cookbook by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.
Ingredients
2 pounds lamb's neck, cut into 2-inch chunks
1/4 olive oil
7 to 8 sprigs of fresh thyme
Juice from 1 1/2 lemons
Procedure
1. Heat a heavy pan until very hot. Add generous splashes of olive oil and brown the chunks of lamb's neck on all sides. You may need to do this in batches to avoid crowding the meat.
2. When you have finished browning all the lamb, place the pieces in a pot and pour stock or water to cover the meat 3/4 of the way. Add the lemon juice and thyme.
3. Simmer for approximately 40 to 50 minutes, until the lamb is very tender. Serve in soup bowls with the broth, accompanied by a good crusty loaf.
About the author: Chichi Wang took her degree in philosophy, but decided that writing about food would be much more fun than writing about Plato. She firmly believes in all things offal, the importance of reading great books, and the necessity of three-hour meals. If she were ever to get a tattoo, it would say "Fat is flavor." Visit her blog, My Chalkboard Fridge.
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43 Comments:
Hurray for offal! Really, American culture already embraces some nasty bits, so long as they're hidden. As a friend of mine enjoys pointing out - we serve a bone marrow extraction sweetened and coloured as a dessert for small children (Jell-o). And pressed sandwich meats come from some of the less savory parts of meat. However, organ meat has largely been ignored.
Let's celebrate organ meat. Huzzah!
BbqDude at 8:23PM on 06/29/09
NYT did an article on this a few months ago, and I even did a nice litle blog post on a lamb's neck stew, but added some more flavor as all you really have here is a lamb broth with a little extra flavor.
Either way, hooray for lamb necks!
trialbyfood at 8:48PM on 06/29/09
Ah, if I could only buy them here in Missouri....
lemons at 9:30PM on 06/29/09
Yes! Yes! Yes! I know next to nothing about offal, but I'm totally down for the subject... and I get a kick out of the reaction some people have when I mention eating bone marrow. Hurray for your series, I hope it doesn't get discontinued, it's the one I'm most likely to MEMORIZE.
alexholyk at 9:33PM on 06/29/09
How very offal.
(I'll be here all week, folks)
jangie at 9:55PM on 06/29/09
I love seeing more offal love around the web, hooray!
nosetotailathome at 10:57PM on 06/29/09
Would saying that the neck is my favorite part of the traditional Thanksgiving turkey be out of line here? The rest of my family thinks I'm odd for enjoying sucking every last bit of meat from the bones.
lovepunch at 11:26PM on 06/29/09
I looooooooove offal and all the weird bits. I always get questions from people when I buy chicken feet - I'm not Asian and somehow people think that;'s even more weird that I like those little feeties. Beef tendon, chicken hearts, fish heads, pork spleen and liver - love it all. Looking forward to the series.
Dcarl1 at 11:56PM on 06/29/09
Yay for offal! Go Chichi!
BangieB at 12:43AM on 06/30/09
if you need water or stock for the stew, shouldn't that be in the ingredients list?
elron at 1:24AM on 06/30/09
Just curious -- why would lamb neckbones be considered offal? I always thought that referred to the internal non-muscle bits like liver, etc.
dbcurrie at 1:44AM on 06/30/09
@jangie--groan. That was good.
Anyone ever try haggis? I haven't, but I'd be willing to try it. Didn't Anthony Bourdain have it deep fried on a stick?
I have offal in my genes from my Filipina mother and German father. My dad taught me to make chicken liver sausage. And when my mom made dinuguan, a pork dish using the blood of the pig as the braising medium. She told us it "chocolate meat" so that we'd eat it.
I never throw out poultry gibletsor the neck--I'll either bread and fry them or use them in stock.
It's getting increasingly difficult to find any kind of offal, though. Lately, even whole chickens and turkeys don't have all their giblets.
betteirene at 2:29AM on 06/30/09
Dang! I just passed on a great deal on lamb's neck because I had no idea what to do with it!
Even though I do love our "hidden" offal food(hot dogs, anyone?), I am a fan of it outright. My grandfather used to make fried tripe and I was the only grandchild who not only tried it, but loved it.
I haven't had it for years, but still think about how good it was. Offal is the ish!
amiyrah18 at 2:30AM on 06/30/09
I'm Jamaican and am no stranger to the nasty bits. We eat chicken feet, pigs feet, chicken neck, etc.
QueenAlli at 4:52AM on 06/30/09
Great idea and nice looking recipe, but i'll have to agree with dbcurrie. Lamb's neck is not offal. It's muscle and bone. I've made tons of recipes with lamb's neck including a lot of couscous, and never have I or any of my guests thought of it as offal.
SqueezeBottle at 6:16AM on 06/30/09
yay Asian moms!
I love that I grew up learning to eat or at least try anything and everything. Few new foods turn me off now. I've never been a fan of those chicken feet ("Phoenix claws" Hah!). But love a lot of the other nasty bits. :]
*dreamy*
engmcmuffin at 9:31AM on 06/30/09
I grew up in a nice American home in the 1950's with liver, tongue and headcheese as part of my diet. I will try anything once and know that most sausages are not made of the upper cuts of meat. That said, I wish my own child had embraced my love of the 'nasty bits' of the animals that we eat. He refuses to even try liver, even when I make it with scads of bacon. Me, I love to eat kidneys, liver, heart, gizzards and necks, but draw the line at feet. Though I am sure I have eaten my share in Jello.
With the economy the way it is, I think that offal and lower cuts of meat will become more accessible and that is something I am looking forward to.
queenbleu at 10:17AM on 06/30/09
Awesome. Looking forward to reading more Nasty Bits articles, Chichi!
This article has me craving some spicy stir-fried kidneys right about now...yum.
avocadoboba at 10:58AM on 06/30/09
Thank goodness my parents exposed me to every bit of the animal and then some! I still remember being a kid and seeing strange veiny ovals in the halal butcher's case and asking "What's those?" In Middle Eastern slang, the butcher drily giggled, "Eggs."
Neckbones make a particularly flavorful stew with white beans and kale, but I would not call bones offal. I think that word is reserved for entrails and those bits that frighten more than they attract.
JungMan at 11:26AM on 06/30/09
wow, i've never seen such a positive outpouring of comments for offal! I'm really excited about this series - both for people to see how wonderful the other parts are and to get some new recipes.
@dbcurrie - technically you are right but the term has grown to mean anything that's not a typical cut you see in the grocery store. Anything that would be deemed odd by middle america.
Is the jelled blood allowed to naturally coagulate or is gelatin added (maybe some trotter stock)? Sounds wonderful.
christopher at 11:35AM on 06/30/09
I am really excited to see this and can't wait for the rest of the series. I grew up in a typical American 80's suburb with wonderbread and crisco, but I was exposed to the glories of calve's liver at a very young age.
And whenever my mom would roast a chicken, she'd put the gizzards and all in a saucepan with some seasonings, make extra juices for basting. My father and I would literally FIGHT over who got the heart. Woe to the poor chicken who did not come with a heart in the bag o' guts! There was a "Survivor" epi recently where one of the contestants "won" a skewer of chicken hearts. Everyone was grossed out, but my first thought was "ooooh a whole skewer all to oneself? Yummy!"
wasliche at 11:58AM on 06/30/09
i love the idea for this series. nasty bits are the best bits. But.... the picture to open the post? Not the best way to entice people... Looking forward to future posts!
greggg at 12:32PM on 06/30/09
@Christopher, thanks for the clarification. When I made lamb neckbones, I was thinking that they looked an awful lot like oxtails. I served 'em to my inlaws, and they never asked what cut of meat it was...and since I had cut it off the bone by then, it was just "stew meat."
I'd be surprised if many people could fine lamb neck in the store. Around here, there's an occasional leg and some chops, but that's about it. I suspect the rest ends up in the ground lamb and stew meat that also appears randomly.
The only reason I had any was that I buy a whole lamb every year, so I get all sorts of interesting cuts that never show up in stores.
dbcurrie at 12:48PM on 06/30/09
Nasty Bits lovers,
You guys just made my day with all the comments about what types of offal you love! Keep it going - I want to know what everyone's favorite nasty bit is. A few things in response:
- Yes, lamb’s neck is clearly not an organ, but I think that a wider understanding of offal includes the bony bits, like oxtail and neck. To clarify, I’ll be focusing on head-to-tail eating, with an emphasis on innards and the like. Anyway, I think I’ll have an innards recipe next week.
- Give this recipe a try, even if it’s just “lamb broth”! Growing up in a Chinese household, one of my favorite soups was my mother’s pork neck soup, and it was flavored with nothing more than rice wine and ginger. This particular lamb’s neck stew has Greek influences, and I’ve found that the additions of lemon and thyme are more than enough “flavoring.” The simplicity of this recipe is what makes it stellar – I could come home at 6 or 7 in the evening and have dinner on the table in an hour, which is always good.
- Nope, the blood coagulates and firms up on its own. My mother tells me that you take the chicken, let the blood drip into a pan and as it's dripping, stir the blood constantly. When the blood has finished draining, it will have basically congealed.
Chichi Wang at 1:05PM on 06/30/09
@Chichi - Wow! Thank you for this recipe! Your mom's pork neck soup sounds great too. I can actually get pork neck bones at my regular grocery store here. Do you think you can post that recipe sometime?
I loves me my nasty bits!
Amandarama at 1:48PM on 06/30/09
Amandarama, here you go:
http://chalkboardfridge.blogspot.com/2009/05/pork-bone-soup.html
Let me know how it goes. Yeah, pork neck bones are surprisingly common at most grocery stores. If you go to a butcher, have him cut up the neck bones into 2 inch segments for the optimal surface area to interior meat ratio.
Chichi Wang at 1:54PM on 06/30/09
Yum!
It's great to see someone tackle this intimidating subject; if done right, offal is often the most intensely flavored and delicious part of the animal. I look forward to following the nasty bits trail wherever it may lead!
miloptimus at 2:32PM on 06/30/09
I was delighted to find at the New York Food Emporium on 3rd ave. and 68th St., veal brains, tongue and sweetbreads available in the meat section. They were inexpensive and fresh, and I love to cook them when I have the time. All three require some poaching or brining before being used in a recipe.
Looking forward to your future articles, Chichi. I love soup from lamb's neck.
Ortolan at 2:58PM on 06/30/09
@Chichi - Thanks for the link to the pork neck soup recipe (and your blog, which I look forward to looking through since I'm off for the summer!)!
Amandarama at 4:24PM on 06/30/09
yay asian moms, indeed. i didn't appreciate the un-american food i ate as a child. now i understand the gift she gave me...even if she did pickle a few of my pet tadpoles along the way.
dmarina at 4:54PM on 06/30/09
i like using pork neckbones as a base when roasting a whole pork shoulder; the meat gets basted on the bottom while still allowing the fat to drip off the pork shoulder (bone-in, skin-on); and amazing afterwards. all those cheap cuts are great; looking forward to what are hopefully recipes as simple as the one you presented here.
avisualperson at 1:46AM on 07/01/09
This is great! I absolutlely love lamb's neck. A very choice cut.
Offalwinfrey at 9:53AM on 07/01/09
Hi guys –
Thanks for the tips and stories. I will have to check out that Emporium because I’m constantly on the lookout for a fresh source for offal. Pickled tadpoles? Wow, I need the full anecdote on that.
Chichi Wang at 12:50PM on 07/01/09
I LOVE beef tendons and chicken feet, and will be forever indebted to a Taiwanese friend who introduced me to dim sum!!
Lamb's neck is one of my favorite flavorings in the slowcooker: I often add a pound or so to my homemade veggie stews. (No broth-making involved; I just throw them in w/cabbage, lentils, eggplant, etc & my spice blends!)
And when the lowest meat prices are for whole poultry, I stir fry the heart & liver with soy sauce, green chillies, onions, ginger & asafoetida. DELICIOUS, nutritious & economical.
mjzawals at 2:18PM on 07/01/09
As a kid going to school in the 60's, there wasn't a cafeteria serving hot lunches and we all brought lunches from home. Even after they started serving food in school, many of us continued to bring a sack lunch... remember those lunch boxes with a thermos in the lid and Mighty Mouse painted on the outside? Anyway, lunch was usually a P&J or balogna sandwich. Occasionally I would get a tongue sandwich. I'm sure it made me who I am today. I can tell you one thing.... It was incredibly difficult to find somebody to trade for the tongue sandwich. As an adult, I now travel all over the world and eat most everything. And there are definitely some interesting things, especially in Asia.
Feedfwd at 3:15PM on 07/01/09
Being of Italian decent I have eaten a dish called Sufritta made with beef innards, heart, lungs and stomach, stewed in a hearty tomato sauce. MAGNIFICO !!!
salvaggio50 at 5:42PM on 07/01/09
Being of Italian decent I have eaten a dish called Sufritta made with beef innards, heart, lungs and stomach, stewed in a hearty tomato sauce. MAGNIFICO !!!
salvaggio50 at 6:20PM on 07/01/09
Being of Italian decent I have eaten a dish called Sufritta made with beef innards, heart, lungs and stomach, stewed in a hearty tomato sauce. MAGNIFICO !!!
salvaggio50 at 6:33PM on 07/01/09
My mother used to use pork neckbones to make the stock for her tomato soup. She never used pork for any other soup that I can recall. After the bones and meat came out, of course there was never anything you could use that meat for in a proper dinner, right? So we'd pull out the barbecue sauce and pick the bones clean and eat the meat with the sauce. No utensils required.
She also made a soup called czarnina, which translates as "black soup," It wasn't actually black, it was a dark, murky brown, and it was made from duck blood. I loved that stuff, too, but after a while it got impossible to find the main ingredient anywhere.
As for liver -- I loved liver and onions. Never really understood how anyone could not love liver and onions. First time I made them for DH, he was astounded that he could cut it with a fork. He'd never had liver cooked so that it was tender. Now it's one of his favorite meals.
And chicken livers. And chicken gizzards.
dbcurrie at 11:19PM on 07/01/09
This sounds fabulous but.. no salt?
I have wonderful offal memories:-) I love boiled tongue; boiled beef tongue with whole peppercorns and a bay leaf, served with mustard and horseradish. I can't even find tongue now in a store.
Cookee at 1:49PM on 07/02/09
Whoops - uh, salt as needed, guys.
So....I've been waiting a few days now. No one's going to say anything about Marx????
Chichi Wang at 1:14PM on 07/06/09
My intro to offal was a standing veal rib roast with kidney in the concavity occasionally made by my mother, father would not partake.
Duck-blood soup (Czarnina) was always served with kluski(?), potato/egg/flour noodles, kneaded and sliced thin, then boiled. My childhood friends enjoyed the soups' sweet/sour broth which was the result of combining duck blood w/vinegar to prevent clotting, then simmering with prunes, raisins and sliced beets in addition to the quartered duck for hours. Years passed before the friends were aware of the ingredients, surprise doesn't describe the reactions.
Found some kidneys while shopping, was looking for a recipe, ended up musing over the comments here, always late/behind when cooking anyway.
Maybe more technique next time about blood-acquiring procedures.
leocooks at 6:53PM on 08/05/09
Being Greek myself it's great to see a really good recipie for lamb neck bones. (luckily they are readily available to me in Pittsburgh). Although you may want to tweak a couple things. The authentic way is to salt and pepper the lamb necks, with sea salt only of course, brown them in the olive oil and then add the tyme and lemon juice, then add the water. Adding the tyme to the oil and lamb fat deepens the flavor. Also, you want to make sure to cover the pot while simmering otherwise the meat won't be as succulently tender. Plus we also throw in a small onion while simmering. Just suggestions...hope this helps. Keep up the great work!!!!
greekgirlpgh at 4:48PM on 08/22/09