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Cook the Book: Burnt Ricotta Salata, Tomatoes, and Olives

Posted by Caroline Russock, June 17, 2009 at 1:00 PM

In the introduction to Seven Fires, Francis Mallmann talks about the taste of burnt. He says that adding an element dissonance to a dish makes it interesting, and that many chefs are too hung up on harmonious flavors. He uses a tomato to illustrate this point: "A burnt tomato, for example, has a dark crust bordering on bitter, while the inside is soft and gentle in texture and in taste."

This recipe for Burnt Ricotta Salata, Tomatoes, and Olives takes the harmonious combination of ingredients and adds a dissonant element by charring the cheese and chiles. While Mallmann is a fan of burnt flavors, he is careful not to take the charring too far or else it will destroy the nuances of the dish.

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Burnt Ricotta Salata, Tomatoes and Olives

- serves 6 -

Adapted from Seven Fires by Francis Mallmann.

Ingredients

1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup fresh oregano leaves
12 ounces cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 cup Kalamata olives
10 ounces ricotta salata
2 small red chiles
Coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon crushed rep pepper flakes

Procedure

1. Whisk together the sugar, red wine vinegar, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the oregano in a bowl. Add the tomatoes and toss to coat.

2. Smash the olives with the side of a heavy knife and tear them open, removing the pits. Toss the olives and tomatoes together on a serving platter.

3. Break the ricotta salata into rough 1-inch pieces and place in a bowl. Halve the chiles, remove the seeds, and cut lengthwise into thin slices. Add the ricotta and toss with the remaining 5 tablespoons olive oil.

4. Heat a chapa (a flat piece of cast iron set over a fire) or large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add the ricotta and the chiles in batches, so they aren't crowded, and cook without moving for 5 to 10 seconds; as soon as you see the cheese charring on the bottom, remove the cheese and chiles and place the burnt side up over the tomatoes and olives. Sprinkle with salt and red pepper flakes. Serve immediately.

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Tags: cheese, Cook the Book, Francis Mallmann, olives, ricotta salata, Seven Fires, tomatoes, vegetarian