Cook the Book: Choucroute
This Cajun take on the classic Alsatian choucroute from Donald Link's Real Cajun might have a fancy French name and a lot of ingredients, but it's really nothing more than a variation on the classic combination of hot dogs and sauerkraut.
Don't feel daunted by the extensive list of ingredients. The actual prep time isn't more than half an hour. This recipe is endlessly versatile, so no need to worry if you can't get confit duck legs; just throw in any pork product you can think of—ham, bacon, pork chops, ribs, any type of sausage. You can either slice the sausages into rounds or leave them whole and have some rolls and mustard on the side to make sausage sandwiches. Game or no game, this choucroute is a great way to feed a crowd with minimal effort.
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Game Day Choucroute
- serves 8 to 10 -
Adapted from Real Cajun by Donald Link.
Ingredients
4 duck confit legs, at room temperature
4 tablespoons duck fat
5 ounces slab bacon, cut into 1/3-inch slices, then into 1-inch pieces
1 large onion, diced
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
8 bay leaves
3/4 cup Creole (or whole-grain) mustard
1 bottle Riesling (or Gewurtztaminer) or other medium-dry white wine
2 1/2 pounds sauerkraut
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and sliced into 2-inch chunks
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1 pound) peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
3 pounds sausage (any combination of fresh, smoked, andouille, etc.), sliced into 1-inch rounds or left whole
8 ounces tasso or other smoked ham, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 quart chicken broth
Procedure
1. Remove the bones from the duck legs by gently twisting the bone until you can pull it out without breaking up the meat; set aside at room temperature. Preheat oven to 300° F.
2. Heat the duck fat in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the fat is very hot, sear the duck legs over medium-high heat for 3 to 4 minutes on the skin side only. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the duck to a plate and set aside. Add the bacon to the same pan, reduce the heat, and render until it is not quite crisp or colored. Add the onion, salt, juniper berries, nutmeg, bay leaves and
mustard and stir to combine.
3. Stir the Riesling into the onion mixture, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the liquid reduces by half, about 10 minutes.
4. Stir in the Sauerkraut, apples, potatoes, sausage, tasso and chicken broth. Return the mixture to a simmer, then place the duck legs on top and gently press them into the choucroute so that the skin side is just above the surface. Cover and bake for 2 to 3 hours, until the meat and potatoes are tender and the flavors have melded.
Note: The cooked duck skin will dry sitting at room temperature, which will make it easier to crisp and render in the pan.
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2 Comments:
Choucroute is my favorite braised dish ever! We had it while traveling in Alsace many years ago and have made it at least a couple of times a year since, using the Cooking of Provincial France book from the Time-Life Foods of the World series.
First, you don't need duck legs...they're expensive and unnecessary. Substitute bone-in chicken thighs (leave the bone in for extra flavor), slices of smoked ham or plain or smoked pork chops.
Second, drain the sauerkraut well and rinse in several changes of water, squeezing out as much liquid as possible each rinsing to get rid of the vinegar taste. You can then braise it in half chicken stock, half wine or all stock and the sauerkraut will be mild and slightly sweet. So delicious!
GoodStuffNW at 1:51PM on 04/24/09
I agree - draining and rinsing the sauerkraut is essential.
And duck doesn't belong in this dish -- if you happen to have duck confit, save it for a cassoulet. Choucroute garnie is all about the pork. Use a bunch of different pork products for the best result -- slab bacon is a must, several different kinds of sausage, ham, chops, etc.
This also works in a slow cooker. Mmmmm.
benbenberi at 4:53PM on 04/24/09