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Dinner Tonight: Chilaquiles Rojos

dt-chilaquiles.jpg

Now I understand. When Anthony Bourdain trash-talked nachos on his excursion to a Mexican border town, I felt a little violated. Though my favorite cuisine is Mexican and I eat it almost every day, for some reason I couldn't shake that messy Tex-Mex dish. When I've had one too many drinks, I've been known to whip up batches of nachos from scratch, complete with freshly fried corn tortillas and my own cheese sauce. It was my guilty pleasure, and Bourdain didn't have to make me feel bad about it.

But that's all different now. Chilaquiles are similar to nachos except lighter, spicier, and altogether superior. Instead of each chip competing for coverage, with gloppy toppings like yellow cheese and hamburger meat, these chips are bathed in an incredible sauce so each bite has all the right flavors.

They're then topped with leftover roasted chicken, thinly sliced onion, and a sprinkling of cheese. They are even messier than nachos, and a fork is absolutely necessary. But they are, in my humble opinion, better. Plus, nearly every recipe I looked at mentioned that these were considered excellent hangover food. The ingredients might change, but my ritual can remain the same.

This recipe is adapted from Rick Bayless' Authentic Mexican, and, like everything else I've tried from the book, the recipe is spot on. But I am particularly astounded by this one. Why aren't these on every menu across this nation instead of nachos? Anyone have answers for this?

Chilaquiles Rojos

- serves 2 as a main course -

Ingredients

For the tomato chile sauce:
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes
3 jalapeƱos, stemmed and chopped
1/2 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon lard or vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the chilaquiles:
1 cup chicken broth
7 ounces corn tortilla chips
1/2 cup leftover chicken
2 tablespoons Mexican queso fresco, crumbled
1/2 onion thinly sliced
1/4 cup sour cream
Handful of cilantro

Procedure

1. Start with making the sauce. Add the tomatoes, jalapeƱos, onion, and garlic to a food processor or blender. Process until smooth.

2. Heat the lard in a skillet set over medium-high. When it's hot dump in tomato chile sauce. It will splatter a little bit, but that's okay. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Turn the heat to low and season with salt.

3. Pour the chicken broth into the skillet, and stir until combined. Then add the tortilla chips. Stir until covered with the sauce, then cover and let cook for about 5 minutes. They should be soft but not mushy.

4. Warm leftover chicken up in a pot or in the microwave.

5. Assemble the plate. Spoon some of the tortilla mixture onto a plate. Top with the thinly sliced onions, queso fresco, sour cream, and cilantro. Serve.

View other entries from Dinner Tonight.

18 Comments:

I should mention that it is more traditional to use stale tortillas that are kind of pan-fried. Using tortilla chips is kind of the lazy man's way. Just be sure to use a thicker chip that won't turn to mush easily.

I too am surprised that Chilaquiles haven't made their way up here. I went to Mexico a couple of times last year, and couldn't stop eating the chilaquiles. They are so good! I'm glad to see a recipe pop up on serious eats, its kind of hard to find a good recipe online.

My guess as to why they're not popular: Pure peasant food. The stale chips mention hints at it. These are supposed to be made for breakfast using dinner leftovers.

We used to go to an El Salvadoran restaurant years ago that had the most amazing pupusas and yucca frita, but the mainstays of their menu were Americanized burritos, enchiladas and nachos. When we asked why they didn't feature the Salvadoran offerings more prominently, the owner shrugged and said, "Americans like their yellow cheese."

Thanks for the recipe!

With chicken? Muy elegante. Chilaquiles are indeed peasant food, most often with the tortillas alone and not any kind of meat providing the substance.

As to the question, chilaquiles are probably not on as many Tex-Mex menus as nachos because, well, why make tortilla chips soggy with sauce when most people, even Mexican people, prefer the crisp, fresh ones? The idea of the dish is to use up stale tortillas, which may be a concern at home but not a major concern in Tex-Mex restaurants. Another reason might be that the dish is usually made without chicken or other meat, for reasons of economy. Sure, if you adapt a traditional chilaquiles recipe to take advantage of the fact that some chicken or whatever is not going to bust the wallet of any Tex-Mex restaurant patron, then I can see chilaquiles appearing on more restaurant menus. But the traditional spartan versions with tortilla chips alone?--not very satisfying compared with typical Tex-Mex menu options laden with chicken, beef, cheese, etc.

@Lorenzo: Maybe it's just me, but the best part of nachos are the soggy chips; you know, the ones extra coated in cheese.

I'm very intrigued by this recipe!

My first encounter with this wonderful dish was on a weekend spent out on Catalina Island off the coast of LA. After a long hard night of drinking at the deliciously seedy Luau Larry's, we stumbled back in Sunday morning for the brunch. Friends recommended the chilaquiles. They were like nothing i had ever experienced before (being from the not-so-texmex Northeast). I can also attest that they are a great Hangover remedy food. I came back home to Boston and began searching my local Mexican haunts, but never found chilaquiles on the menus. I was mentioning this to friends one night and the waiter overheard and informed me that chilaquiles were considered a peasant dish back home and that I would most likely not find them on any local menus. Still looking, no luck. NOW, I have a recipe even I can follow, I look forward to this upcomming Sunday morning when I will host a brunch and my chilaquiles will be the Main Event. I think I will go more traditional and skip the chicken. I will post an update later.

God I love Chilaquiles - especially for breakfast with a fried egg on top.

Yeah, I had it again for lunch with a fried egg on top. Great....

I too love chilaquiles and a couple of the Mexican restaurants here in Savannah have them on the menu or will prepare them on request. I've also had Chilaquiles Verdes, using a green sauce prepared with (I'm assumng) tomatillos instead of whole red tomatoes and cilantro pureed in with the sauce in addition to being a garnish on top. Either way - major yumminess! Thanks, Nick, for a GREAT basic recipe!

Chilaquiles is also a breakfast meal. We hate them every morning we were in Sayulita - they are absolutely wonderful. We were lucky to come across an authentic recipe, just like the ones we ate, and made it for dinner - http://www.chezus.com/2008/10/29/chilaquiles/. Really fantastic!

i thought chilaquiles usually included eggs?
either way, when i make what i call "chilaquiles", i fry tortillas, top it with eggs, chorizo if i have any, cheese, and a similar red sauce--or, sometimes, guacamole (just as good a combo, if not better).

I grew up in El Paso, Texas, right on the border with Mexico and New Mexico. We ate a lot of chilaquiles, which were scrambled eggs with tostadas (fried corn tortilla pieces), fresh salsa (we called it pico de gallo) or red enchilada sauce, and cheese. That's the Chihuahua or New Mexican version. In other parts of Texas and in general Tex-Mex cooking, they're called migas and are a bit different.

Chilaquiles, fideo (vermicelli in a thin tomato sauce), and gorditas (fried corn patties stuffed with ground meat, potatoes, veggies, and cheese and fried again!) were definitely home food and not usually to be had in restaurants (though gorditas started springing up in hamburger stands, etc.),

Sorry this is so long, but I live in Los Angeles now and really miss my home-style Mexican food; the Mexican food here is lovely, but it's just not the same -- witness the fact that all tacos here are soft!

I've only ever had chilaquiles verdes... these look amazing and could be on the menu for this week! Thanks!

The availability of chilaquiles on a restaurant's menu is how I determine if it's a good place to go, or not. What I love is how it varies even at the same restaurant depending on who is cooking. Green sauce, red sauce, cheesy sauce, OH so good. Dry or wet. Oh man do I love chilaquiles! I've only found a couple of places in my area with them, and unfortunately our favorite closed a year or two ago. :( It will remain the standard by which restaurants are judged for me. Even if I have to ask whether they have them, on the off chance that someone in the kitchen might be willing to make them for me. Yum!

There is a recipe in Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen for Black Bean Chilaqules with chipotle. These are EXCELLENT, and I have also made a simplified version with canned refried beans and broth as the sauce (instead of the red or green sauce). It is basically onions, garlic, a couple of canned chipotles, and beans thinned with broth, then add the chips. Top with sour cream and queso anejo. I'm not kidding, these are soooo good! Also, if you can get or grow epazote, it adds a lot. Don't be put off by the smell of it raw, it changes immediately when you put it in food.

I'm a bit late to the party here, but wanted to comment that I made these and they were stellar.

i ate chilaquiles in guadalajara all the time and they were DELICIOUS. sour cream works, but mexican crema is best. DO NOT substitute feta in this recipe. i am always baffled when recipes say you can use these cheeses interchangably. they crumble the same way, but they don't taste the same at all!

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