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Dinner Tonight: Caldo Verde

20090326caldoverde.jpgCaldo Verde is somewhat similar to a soup I made awhile back called Caldo Gallego. Both hail from similar parts of Europe and are decidedly inexpensive, peasants soups. Both feature dried chorizo prominently, which leaks its richly red oil into the soup's broth for color and flavor. Yet one—the Gallego—I loved. This one, not nearly as much. What was the problem?

Usually recipes from River Cottage are reliable, but this one disappointed me. Since making it, I've started reading more about Caldo Verde and realized that kale or turnip greens, or something equally wintry and hardy, is an essential element to the dish. My recipe called for cabbage, which failed to impart not only the appropriate flavor, but also the green color that gives it its name. Green cabbage is not actually verde once cooked, which led to the yellow soup I ended up with.

It still tasted good—nothing with pieces of chorizo could be bad—but it wasn't the sort of result you'd call a national dish. I'm still on the lookout for a good recipe. Next time I'll probably try the version from Leite's Culinaria.

About the author: Blake Royer founded The Paupered Chef with Nick Kindelsperger, where he writes about food and occasional travels. He is currently living for the year in Tartu, Estonia.

Caldo Verde

- serves 6 -
Adapted from River Cottage

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 stick celery, chopped
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 large floury potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes
Half a medium green cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and sliced very thinly
4 to 6 thick pieces of dried chorizo sausage

Procedure

1. In a large pot or saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, along with a pinch of salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft. Add the potatoes along with 5 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the potatoes are tender.

2. Transfer the soup to blender to puree, or use a stick blender or a food mill. Add the cabbage to the soup and simmer until tender. Taste for seasoning.

3. Ladle into bowls, top with sliced chorizo and a drizzle of olive oil, and serve.

View other entries from Dinner Tonight.

11 Comments:

Oh! It took me a few minutes to realize this is Portugeuse Kale soup. You might try searching under that name for more inspired recipes. Yes, kale or another dark leafy green is essential. Also yummy (if not authentic) when made with little pork meatballs instead of spanish/portuguese chorizo, which is hard to find in some places.

Yet one—the Gallego—I loved. This one, not nearly as much. What was the problem?

this one disappointed me

I'm still on the lookout for a good recipe

Blake, with statements like that in your introduction, it begs the question, why exactly are you posting this recipe?

I was going to point out that Caldo Verde is a Portuguese dish (not traditionally a Spanish dish), but Embackus beat me to it....

The Portuguese are quite sensitive about being lumped in with the Spanish - Thousands of years of independent history will tend to do that!

The recipe from Leite's is essentially the one I use, although I double the garlic and halve the meat. It's hard to imagine Caldo Verde without kale; most recipes refer to it as "kale soup." I like it best with linguica, (http://www.gasparssausage.com/gaslin1.html),which, however, can be hard to find. I grew up in a very Portuguese-centric fishing town, and I'd never heard of chourico until I went to college (I think they basically call every spicy, cured sausage "linguica").

The problem may be one of translation; in Portuguese, "dark green cabbage" = "kale". See the recipe at http://www.soupsong.com/rkale1.html for a hint of what traditional Portuguese Caldo Verde should be.

Don't be tempted to exchange water for chicken stock; in this instance, water is much better.

Kaela
www.localkitchen.wordpress.com

Tattoosydney, you got it right (Portuguese speaking here). Yes, we don't like to be confused with Spanish. And Caldo Verde is a Portuguese dish.

From what I know about Caldo Verde, not to doubt about the great Leite's, it's tipically made with Collard Greens. At least that's the way my Mom does it and a quick look at the Wikipedia entry (in Portuguese) validated my guess.

Kaela, linguica is a thiner chourico. From there on, we could discuss the several names we have for spicy cured sausages :)

I have always seen it made with kale (I guess mustard greens or collards would work...). And Portuguese olive oil if you can find it; it's quite distinctive.

We grew up eating caldo verde, but never made with carrots or celery or cabbage, always 2 potatoes, 2 onions, a bunch of collards or kale cut in chiffonade strips, and chourico, and often with broa de fuba (cornbread) on the side. I agree with kmporter - water is better than stock. I've tried both and the stock covers the sausage's flavor.

Leite's Culinaria is great, all due respect to David, but I think I'll stick to our family recipe, which is Brazilian-American (Brazilian-Portuguese part of Massachusetts).

Thanks, all, for the suggestions! I was aware that Caldo Verde is a Portugeuse dish, though I didn't make that entirely clear in the post. Without a doubt my next effort will have kale or collards or some other good hearty winter green.

@mr guy -- I posted it because I knew that Serious Eaters would be able to set me straight. Sometimes recipes that are less successful stimulate the most interesting discussions!

Try Sara Moulton's Spanish-Style White Bean, Kale and Chorizo Soup; I've been making it for years. It's not exactly Caldo Verde, but it's close and it's excellent. The green pepper, bay leaf, saffron and paprika add to a lot to the dish, and I love the white beans, though I'm sure you can substitute potatoes. I've made it when I didn't have saffron and it's still an excellent soup, I also throw in some cilantro if I have it on hand.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/sara-moulton/spanish-style-white-bean-kale-and-chorizo-soup-recipe/index.html

Just made caldo verde the other night -- trick is to get black cabbage (which I grow), or black kale or at least a savoy, roll the leaves in a cigar and slice them AS THIN AS HUMANLY POSSIBLE. Cook your soup as long as it needs to (I use ham hocks, blood sausage, pork shoulder, etc), then add the cabbage in right at the end. Let it cook for only 5 minutes or so, so it is still vibrant green. Oh, and the version of caldo verde I make uses potatoes cooked to the point where they dissolve and add body to the soup. I puree the potatoes with a boat motor...

I think people who know caldo verde have covered it here: no carrots, no celery, definite use of kale. (But I prefer collard greens, as they're closer to couve galega, the kale used in Portugal.) But I'm very curious: LadyMarmalade, would you be willing to share you your recipe?!?!

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