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Cook the Book: 'Almost Meatless' Albondigas

Albóndigas are little Spanish or Mexican meatballs. In Spain, they're commonly served fried, in a rich tomato sauce, whereas a Mexican cook is more likely to serve them in a light broth, "Italian wedding" style.

In Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond's reimagining of the albóndiga, just half a pound of ground lamb is stretched to feed four to six people. Steel-cut oats provide some of the bulk, and chipotle peppers, cumin, and cilantro provide the flavor. Instead of being fried, the uncooked meatballs are placed straight into the tomato sauce to simmer—and sharpened at the very end with a squeeze of lime.

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