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Dinner Tonight: Panuchos Yucatecos con Chorizo

dt-panuchosconshorizo.jpg

The last time I had this dish I was in the middle of Cancun, Mexico, far from the run of beachfront tourist hotels. I found this little restaurant in the city center serving panuchos, fried tortillas filled with black beans, and topped with meat and pickled red onions. I couldn't believe I'd never heard of this dish before. The tortilla was crisp, but the insides were creamy from the black beans. Sort of like a tostada but way more delicate.

For some help in recreating the dish I turned to Rick Bayless' incredible Authentic Mexico. The only remotely difficult part of the dish is getting the tortillas to puff up in the center so you can separate them into two sections. Just take your time. The hole the filling goes through doesn't have to be that big. The tortillas should separate. If they don't, use a small sharp knife to pry them apart.

Though it's more authentic to top these with chicken, chorizo is what I had on hand. All that's left is a sprinkling of pickled red onions, which might seem like an easy part of the recipe to skip. You certainly can. But they are really crisp and acidic and a perfect contrast to the creamy fried tortillas. They are also not nearly as time-consuming to make as I assumed. The recipe for the pickled red onions makes a lot more than you'll need for the dish, so you can scale it back a little bit if you'd like. But I'd go for the gold. They keep well in the fridge and love to sit on top of other Mexican inspired dishes.

About the author: Nick Kindelsperger is a freelance writer in Chicago. He is the co-founder of The Paupered Chef and spends most of his time playing with the new cooking gadgets he got from his wedding.

Panuchos Yucatecos con Chorizo

- serves 2 -
Adapted from Authentic Mexico by Rick Bayless.

Ingredients

For the pickled red onions:
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cloves garlic
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup cider vinegar

For the panuchos:
6 corn tortillas
2 cups Mexican chorizo
1 can refried beans
2/3 cup canola oil
2 jalapeños, seeded and chopped

Procedure

1. Dump the red onion slices into a pot and cover with water and pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and drain the onions.

2. Grind the black peppercorns and cumin seeds in a mortar or grinder. Add them along with the oregano, garlic, salt, vinegar, and drained red onions to a small pot. Pour in enough water to just cover the red onions. Bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Then kill the heat and transfer everything to a bowl and set aside.

3. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add one tortilla at a time to the skillet and flip it frequently until it becomes stiff and leathery. I should also start to puff up in the middle. Remove from the skillet and take a small knife and cut along the side of the tortilla to loosen the two sides. Cut about one-third of the way around the tortilla. Use your fingers to carefully open the pocket. If it seems like it might tear, just stop. The pocket doesn't have to be as big as the tortilla. Repeat with the other tortillas.

4. Scoop about 1 tablespoon of the beans into the pocket. Smooth it out by pressing down on the top of the tortilla.

5. Pour the oil into a large skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the stuffed tortilla and cook for about 3 minutes until the bottom is crisp. Remove and drain. Repeat with the other tortillas.

6. Meanwhile, cook the chorizo in another skillet set over medium heat. It should be done by the time the other tortillas have been fried.

7. Transfer the stuffed tortillas to plates. Top with a sprinkling of the chorizo and some pickled onions.

View other entries from Dinner Tonight.

9 Comments:

Yum. Love the idea of separating the tortilla and slipping in some beans. Sounds like a great mixture of textures.

Adam: Exactly. Couldn't have said it better myself.

I'm leaving for Playa Del Carmen tomorrow and I will be looking for them. They look really good.

Yummy! This looks kind of like a thinner, crisper, and easier pupusa. I do despise refried beans, though, so I think I'll try lightly mashed black beans or something like that.

chazmo: The restaurant in Cancun is called El Rincón Yucateco. Here is the link:
http://www.fodors.com/world/mexico-and-central-america/mexico/cancun-and-isla-mujeres/review-177645.html

I'm sure there are other places have great versions. But this is the one I went to.

Oh...and just to let you know, I'm very jealous of you.

I was just in Quitana Roo a few months ago and panuchos and salbutes (salbutes are panuchos without the black bean filling) are de rigeur in almost every short-order place I went. Every restaurant does it differently, but most come with pickled onions and some sort of shredded meat topping. In Valladolid (granted, this is in the Yucatan and not Quitana Roo), I had conchinita PIBIL salbutes and this was about a life changing experience as fried corn and pork could give.

I was in Merida in December and took a class with Chef David Sterling (Los Dos Cooking School) that I would highly recommend. One of the dishes we made was panuchos. If you want to take it to the next level make homemade black bean refritos and strain them until they are very smooth and thin before filling the tortillas (and of course making your own tortillas helps too).

Panuchos and salbutes are everywhere in the Yucatan. A friend of mine who's from there took us all over the peninsula and frequently stopped for a bite or two of the snack at roadside stands and markets. Chicken is a common topping, but it's turkey that's traditional. I like mine topped with a bit of shredded cabbage too. Thanks for the culinary reminder of a great locale.

I love that more articles are being written on Yucatecán cuisine. It is an underrated style that features a blend of Mayan, Spanish and Caribbean, particulary Cuban flavors. Mérida is the food center of Yucatán and the cooks here use either Cochinita Pibil or Pollo Pibil for their Panuchos, although most braised, flavorful third category cut meats with will suffice.

For this recipe, I suggest a few changes:

The Beans: They must be black beans! Patricia Quintana has a great recipe for Yucatecán-Style Sieved Black Beans flavored with white onion, habanero and fresh epazote. Epazote is a great herb that rids the beans of their gaseousness and provides excellent flavor - It should always be used fresh and can be found in big city farmer's markets.

The Tortillas: Probably the most noticable flavor difference that will elevate Panuchos to new heights will be had if you use masa, or fresh corn dough (sold in latin markets, and some popular supermarkets as "Masa Harina"). Patricia Quintana also has a great recipe for corn tortillas. Please avoid the store bought corn tortillas - they taste nothing like the real thing.

The Pickled Red Onions: A few tablespoons of light brown sugar and a few allspice berries will add great flavor. Toast these along with the cumin seeds and make sure the oregano you use is Mexican oregano. There is no need to grind these spices. Simply bring everything except the onions to a boil then pour over the onions and let cool to room temperature before eating. They will keep for at least 2 months.

The Fat: Use pork lard instead of oil to fry the Panuchos - you won't regret it!

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