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Dinner Tonight: White Bean and Tarragon Soup

20090205whitebeantarragonsoup.jpg

In the middle of summer nobody is looking for something to stick to their ribs, but on a snowy evening nothing sounds better. That's one of the nice things about winter, at least when it comes to cooking—the suitableness of soups and stews. Mainstays of an economically-minded cooking life, they are a boon for those of us trying to save a little cash. Nothing stretches longer for less money, whether it's based on legumes, cheap cuts of meat, rice, or pasta. For this reason I've been making a whole lot of bean-based soups around my house, like Cuban black bean and pasta e fagioli. This one, from Nigel Slater's The Kitchen Diaries, is one of the highlights.

For the absolute most affordable preparation, dried beans are essential, but for the sake of this column I went with canned. The result was delicious, hearty and filling but made delicate and distinct by the addition fresh tarragon. Rather than a classic start of onions and garlic, the recipe calls for scallions and carrots, which I think adds something of a twist to the usual flavors one expects from a stew. This soup is a great candidate for a stick blender or food mill, but I just smushed it a bit with a potato masher to keep it slightly chunky. A drizzle of olive oil and a twist of black pepper added some spiciness and pungency and cut through the richness.

White Bean and Tarragon Soup

- serves 4 -

Adapted from The Kitchen Diaries by Nigel Slater.

Ingredients

3 14-oz cans white beans, drained and rinsed
3 bay leaves
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
5 scallions, roughly chopped
1 medium-sized carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 cup fresh tarragon, roughly chopped

Procedure

1. In a large heavy soup pot, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat until the butter begins to foam. Add the scallions and stew for 2-3 minutes, then add the carrots and garlic. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the beans and stock and bring to a boil. Add the bay leaves and half the tarragon leaves, turn down to a simmer, and cook for 15-20 minutes until the beans are falling apart. Blend with a stick blender, pass through a food mill, or mash to desired consistency with a potato masher or the bottom of a can.

3. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Serve with the remaining chopped tarragon, a drizzle of olive oil, and fresh black pepper.

View other entries from Dinner Tonight.

6 Comments:

Love the recipe & plan to try it as we love fresh tarragon, but 1/4 cup sounds like a bit much? It can be an over powering herb. Any comments from other readers on this? Maybe I'm wrong here?

that recipe and the picture are looking amazing to me right now. love cooking healthy with beans and will try this one for sure. i also will go a bit easier on the herbs.

@dixiesue and momtimestwo: The tarragon seemed like a lot to me, too, at first. I didn't think it was overpowering in the end, but feel free to lessen the amount. Just keep in mind that the fresh stuff loses some pungency as it stews in the beans for awhile.

I scaled it back (for 2 people as a side) by using just one large can of Cento cannellini beans and one can of chicken stock. I also added some diced onion, and I used lots of scallions/green onions, because I like them and I have them in my backyard. Still used the whole carrot and garlic clove.

I used only about a Tbsp or 2 of tarragon. It added a nice flavor component, but I would not want it to dominate.

This was a GREAT soup. We both loved it, and I just ate the leftovers for breakfast, sopping up the last bits with a nice piece of bread.

Add this to step 2 of procedure: Remove bay leaves. (Before blending)

I made this on sat night for a dinner party as the starter, everybody loved it! Perfect for a cold winter night. I added about a tsp of sea salt plus the ground pepper at the end before serving. I also used 2 cans of Cento white cannellini kidney beans and let it simmer for about 40 mins, instead of the reco 15-20. Must try if you like bean soups!

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