Serious Eats: Recipes
Dinner Tonight: Pork Chop with Modern Soubise
Modern soubise? I wasn't even acquainted with the old soubise until I found this recipe in James Peterson's Sauces. I only picked it because it was advertised as a perfect topping for pork chops. The original sauce is apparently a stewed-onion mixture with some béchamel thrown in that is cooked for an hour and half, then finished with heavy cream and butter. This modern version forgoes the béchamel, and focuses on a onion purée that can be whipped up in 15 minutes. This is then strained and added to the drippings leftover from cooking the pork chops.
I'm sure nearly any sauce would have gone well with these guys. I found these double-thick ones at my local butcher. When I cooked them up, the outside turned nearly the color of well-browned bacon, and after a quick finish in the oven, they remained nice and juicy inside. I'm not sure why I thought I needed any sauce at all. But I'm so glad I found this one.
Taking some cues from the notes in Sauces, I added a little tomato paste to the soubise and deglazed the pan with wine instead of stock. But the rest of it is really straightforward, as the small number of ingredients attests to. It just didn't taste like it.