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Meat Lite: Eggs Any Style Shaksouka

Editor's note: Philadelphia food writers Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond drop by each week with Meat Lite, which celebrates meat in moderation. Meat Lite was inspired by the book coauthored by the two, Almost Meatless, due out in spring 2009.

20081215goodoleggs.JPGEggs are arguably the most customizable food. They are also one of the best sources of complete protein available to us, which is why Joy and I decided to devote an entire chapter to eggs, amongst the seven other meat-centric chapters, in Almost Meatless. Plus, eggs as a meal are inexpensive--even when you opt for the highest quality, fresh-from-the- source dozen you can find. These nutrient packed orbs go far beyond breakfast and baking for delicious meals and sustenance all day long.

Joy and I met for lunch last week at Kanella, a Greek restaurant serving Cypriot specialties and other Mediterranean/Middle Eastern food in Philadelphia. The place has been wooing Joy with its avgolemono, a tough-to-beat bowl of chicken broth and lemon juice thickened with egg yolks and rice that tastes as homemade as it gets. I was lined up to order the same, until the Shaksouka won me over.

The dish--especially common in Israeli cuisine--is simply a tomato sauce simmered with herbs and spices. It rounds out to a satisfying meal with the addition of two eggs, cooked to your liking in the sauce. I opted for soft set yolks, which spilled out upon the slightest nudge with my fork, seeping into the tomatoes. Soft, garlicky bread and a wide spoon were the best tools for cleaning my plate.

Tweak the herbs and spices, add a kick of heat, fry or scramble your eggs--this iteration of Shaksouka is as customizable as the eggs you add to your go of it.

Tara Mataraza Desmond writes about, cooks, and eats food for a living. Her blog, Crumbs On My Keyboard, is dedicated to delicious things in Philadelphia and lots of other places.

Shaksouka

- serves 4 -

Recipes for Shaksouka vary (as does the spelling of the dish...i.e. shakshouka). Some include peppers, hot chiles, and different spices, but the end results are always hearty, bright with flavor, and made rich from the floating eggs that make this sauce a meal.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, diced small
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 (28-ounce) can chunky crushed tomatoes (or "chef's cut")
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 whole small sprig fresh oregano
1/2 cup water
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 to 8 eggs

Procedure

1. Heat the olive oil in a large high-sided sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat them for about 5 minutes, until they soften a little.

2. Add the tomatoes, cumin, coriander, paprika, oregano and water. Stir to combine and then season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to simmer, covered, for 25 minutes.

3. Uncover the pan and crack the eggs into the simmering sauce one at a time, spaced a few inches from each other. Cover the pan again and continue to simmer about five minutes (soft yolk), or until the egg whites are cooked and the yolk is set to your liking.

4. Ladle the sauce and eggs into shallow bowls and serve with thick toasted bread for sopping up the sauce and egg yolk.

(Alternatively, if you are preparing up to 8 eggs and your pan isn't wide enough to accommodate all of the eggs at once, poach them separately in water and add them to the sauce to serve.)

12 Comments:

wow, that sounds really good. i must say i cannot wait to get this book!

Shakshouka is one of my personal favorite dishes. I picked it up in Israel. A nice touch, albeit not a traditional one, is to serve this with a dollop of ricotta or cottage cheese on the side. The cool cheese and hot tomato stew is a great contrast.

This is my favorite food in the whole world. I discovered it while living in Israel. Unfortunately my wife had a bad experience with it one time (bad egg) and now I can only eat it when she's out.

Best way to eat this is with a huge amount of humus, either stuffed into a pita, or right in the middle of the serving dish. It's called a Haamshuka.

Israelis have a word for sopping up the last bits off the bottom of the plate with a pita: Le-nagev

Yum, Tara ... sounds as delicious as yours looked at Kanella. I just wanted to add for all Serious Eaters that may make their way to Philly that, as I said when we were there, Kanella just might be my very favorite restaurant right now. It's so affordable, especially when you factor in the BYOB-ness. If anyone is interested, here's a link to my recent review of the place:

http://www.phillymag.com/articles/taste_reviews_it_s_cypriot_to_me/

schwartz and thelonecabbage- thanks for the added direction on skaksouka, which is so easy and delicious. Happy le-nagevving (can I do that to that word?).

Ditto to Joy's Kanella sentiments!

Sarahlucy, thanks for your enthusiasm for Almost Meatless! We hope you love the book when you get it!

This sounds very much like a dish my Italian mother used to make when we were kids. The only difference is she cooked the sauce with onions. It made a stew-like dish in which she cracked the eggs on top of the sauce and let them cook to soft, but not runny centers. Add a piece of crusty italian bread and a salad, and you have the ultimate winter comfort food. This recipe brings back so many memories. I think I will have to make this soon. My mouth is watering!

Carolynr1966, Marie Simmons includes a similar recipe in her book, The Good Egg. Amazing how something so simple can be so, so good.

I've been to Israel 4 times over my lifetime but only discovered it there last winter. I'm afraid that if I made it myself it wouldn't be as good as eating it out. Luckily I know where to buy it.

B'taiavon.
(Loosely translates into "enjoy your meal".)

CanadianFoodieGirl:

Shakshuka can be one of those things, that is always better at home. But it depends on the kind of shakshuka you like. When it's served in road side felafel shops, it sits and cooks all day. While the idea of eggs simmering all day usually doesn't do it for me, I make an exception for shakshuka. That said, I'm a runny yoke fan. If the egg is 100% set, then I figure it's over cooked. And for that you can only get it in cook it on demand shops, or at home.

The only place I've ever been to to make a better (and spicyer) shakshuka than me, was a place in Rananna run by Nachmanites (a weird Jewish offshoot that dances allot).

I made this two nights ago, and it was wonderful. Easy, too, and there's enough leftover sauce to add to another dish. Nice!

Actually, the way its pronounced is "Saksouka", traditionally the way its made in Egypt is without using all the spices, just a couple of cloves of garlic (or as much as you like), fried in some oil (normal oil, olive oil or ghee), then some tomatoes according to the amount you want (grated works best). Leave that to simmer for a few minutes until alot of the tomatoes' water had dissolved and the sauce has thickened slightly. Salt and pepper to taste, then add on top the eggs and leave to cook for a couple more minutes. Its eaten with some bread just dipped in the sauce with the eggs. Delicious!!

Sorry- the way its said is "Shakshouka" (Shak-shoo-ka)

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