The first time I dared to (knowingly) eat anchovies was in Suzanne Goin's green goddess dressing, after a few transportingly delicious dishes from Sunday Suppers at Lucques convinced me that she would not lead an open-minded cook or eater astray. I had never tasted green goddess before, but come on, how can you resist an emulsion with a name like that? Before I knew it, I was dipping anything and everything into the tangy, vibrant, verdant sauce. Raw vegetables? Check. Croutons? Probably. My finger? I'm telling you, no shame.
This recipe is marvelous for late summer when herbs are cheap and plentiful and the market is full of candidates for crudité. Goin suggests using it to dress a salad of romaine, cucumbers, and avocado. It also might do amazing things for a BLT, though I haven't put that theory to the test yet. Ranch may be America's favorite salad dressing, but green goddess is the classy cousin who still knows how to have a good time.
- 1 extra-large egg yolk
- 1 cup grapeseed oil
- 1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
- 1 cup packed watercress, cleaned, tough stems removed
- 2 tablespoons tarragon leaves
- 3 tablespoons minced chives
- 1 clove garlic, chopped
- 2 salt-packed anchovies, rinsed, bones removed (I use oil-packed)
- Juice of 1 lemon
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon champagne vinegar
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the egg yolk in a bowl (preferably stainless steel, but I use glass). Slowly pour 1/4 cup oil into the bowl, drop by drop, whisking all the time. Continue this way as the mixture thickens. Once the mayonnaise has emulsified, whisk in another 1/4 cup oil in a slow, steady stream.
Puree the parsley, watercress, tarragon, and chives in a blender with the garlic, anchovies, lemon juice, and remaining 1/2 cup oil.
Whisk the herb puree, vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper into the mayonnaise. If the dressing seems too thick, thin it with a little water. Taste for balance and seasoning.