Serious Eats: Recipes
Dinner Tonight: Deviled Sardines
I’ve been feeling so guilty recently about the plight of salmon and the overfishing of tuna that I’ve kind of sworn off fish for the season. How do you balance the supposed health benefits of a miracle food with the news that’s come up with of late? The New York Times said to eat smaller fish, and more specifically sardines. So I decided to do just that. But in my Midwestern town, fresh sardines are hard to come by—none of the local fishmongers had any. So what were my options now? I dug a little deeper and came across some great love for canned sardines.
I just wanted a simple recipe to introduce me to the wonders of these small tinned fish. But it was kind of hard. I finally found a recipe in Beard on Food, by James Beard. He even has a whole section titled “The Sardine, A Small Miracle”. The recipe I eventually tried was found in the “What the Devil is Devil” section, where Beard tries to figure out what the term “deviled” actually means. Though it differs in each country, in England it refers to dishes with a “very high seasoning as, for instance, deviled roes and deviled sardines, which are. . . seasoned with cayenne, mustard, and Worcestershire sauce and served on toast.” It sounded so tasty that I followed the one-line recipe for Deviled Sardines and came up with a really tasty hors d'oeuvre.
Anyone have any luck with canned sardines?
About the author: Nick Kindelsperger is a co-founder of The Paupered Chef, a blog dedicated to saving time and money while enjoying food in every way possible. He sells wine for a living and lives in Columbus, Ohio.