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Essentials: Feeding Your Friends (With Migas)

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©iStockphoto.com/MiquelMunill

In the past two weeks I’ve twice cooked dinner for a group of six. For the first dinner (friends from high school) I tried new recipes and ended up happy with one and unhappy with the other; the second (in-laws) was my old standby Mexican meal, but since I was chatting instead of paying attention to seasoning the results were not up to snuff. Usually my husband is my whole eating audience, and afterwards we candidly discuss what went right and what went wrong and whether we ever want to see this recipe again. So when I cook for a group, it kills me to bite my tongue instead of announce that I know the salad is not very well dressed or that usually the enchiladas are so much better. I feel ashamed fielding dutiful praise for food that isn’t my best as friends push it around on their plates like balky five-year olds. I need a new system. I wanted to ask you—what is the essential meal or recipe you rely on when you’re cooking for a group?

It can be elegant or not; after these last two dinners, I’m thinking I should just make reliable, everyone-likes-it macaroni and cheese from now on when feeding people I love. I’m not interested in impressing as much as I am in keeping guests out of that awful position where they’re forcing food down and coughing up compliments at the same time.

Maybe breakfast for dinner is a good idea: easy, unexpected and laid-back. These are the migas (Mexican-style scrambled eggs) I make when my husband has been a good boy. The ones I used to improvise were pretty good, but once I tried the America’s Test Kitchen version I never looked back. On the other hand, I made them recently and wasn’t as blown-away by yumminess as I remembered. Sigh. Maybe consistency is just not in the cards for this cook!

The instructions call for baked tortilla chips, but I think migas are just as good with regular old fried chips. I like to bake my own chips here because it is cheaper and slightly healthier: brush corn tortillas very lightly with vegetable oil, cut them into wedges, spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet, and bake in a 400˚F oven for about 10 minutes (keep an eye on them, since it could take a little longer or a couple of minutes less; you want the chips to be crisp but not too brown). You will need about five tortillas-worth of chips for this recipe.

About the author: Robin Bellinger recently escaped a career in book publishing, which was cutting into her cooking time. Now she's a freelance editor and can bake bread on Tuesday afternoon if she feels like it. She lives in Midtown Manhattan with her husband and blogs about cooking and crafting at home*economics.

Mexican-Style Scrambled Eggs (Migas)

- serves 4 -
Adapted from The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook

Ingredients

6 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup baked tortilla chips (2 ounces), broken in 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 onion, chopped medium
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped medium
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 jalapeno chile, stemmed seeded, and minced
2 ounces pepper jack cheese, shredded (1/2 cup)

Procedure

Whisk together the eggs, tortilla chips, salt, and pepper. Melt the butter in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, swirling to coat the pan. Add the onion, red pepper, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs and cook while gently pushing, lifting, and folding them from one side of the pan to the other, until they are nicely clumped, shiny, and wet, about 2 minutes. Quickly fold in the cheese and remove the mixture from the pan.

13 Comments:

These sound yummy. I love Mexican food... especially when the recipes is as straight-forward and simple as this.

Thanks for posting this!

"...since I was chatting instead of paying attention to seasoning the results were not up to snuff."

I feel your pain. For a while back there, I couldn't seem to make a group meal without all four burners and the oven going, trying to have everything finish at about the same time (I learned to cook in a short order environment, so it was what I knew, I suppose). Works fine for 3 or 4, but any more people than that and I would inevitably screw up something, even if I'd made it a dozen times before, even if I made a point of not leaving the kitchen until the food was done. Frustrating and stressful experience to know it could have been better.

I guess I don't have a "go to dish" per se, but I do have a new unofficial rule: only have one or two things to focus on, and rely on dishes where a) the bulk of the work is done the day/morning before that b) are almost impossible to screw up and c) can be flavored in many different directions, depending on crowd and mood. Some things that come to mind - braising meat the day before, so all you have to do that day is turn the braising liquid into a sauce and toss the meat on the grill/broiler for a few minutes before serving. Works with ribs, chicken, most pig parts. No worries about when it's going to be done ("sorry guys, maybe one more hour on the roast while the pilaf dries into a brick..."), plus the resulting sauce can really power the other side dishes.

Cold salads - slaws, grains in vinaigrette, shredded beets or carrots - stuff like that works wonders. My new personal favorite - thanks to Bittman - twice-baked potatoes. Make them ahead, twenty minutes of reheating that day, and you can put almost anything you want in there. My last two have been leftover lentil dal with yogurt and cilantro, topped with vinegar pickled onions, and miso, ginger, and walnuts with a bit of milk. Really versatile, worry free.

Just last week I had a "panini party" with friends - very low stress but a lot of fun. We put the press on one end of the table, set up platters of meat/cheese/veg and made a little activity out of it. Really a lot of fun.

I actually cook for friends every Sunday night (well, I did, up until the last few months as I was finishing my Master's Thesis...but we're in the process of resuming "Sunday Night.") The crowd can range from just five of us up to twelve, and often I won't know until that morning how many are coming (which is frustrating, to say the least.)

Although I try new things often, I have a few standby recipes, things which are flexible in how many they'll feed (aka make good leftovers):

Chili - which I like because it can be just on its own in a bowl, or can be done up with fixin's (like cheese/onions/jalapenos/tortilla chips which other people can be assigned to bring.) Occasionally I'll do a Cincinati Chili and serve it with hot dogs, spaghetti noodles, and baked potatoes buffet style.

Bolognese sauce over pasta - if last minute folks decide to come I have them bring salad fixins to eke out the meal

chicken noodle soup (sometimes I'll switch out the noodles for rice)

Meatloaf (a turkey version from Ina Garten) with whatever veggies I'm in the mood for, sometimes mashed potatoes and glazed carrots, sometimes roasted roasted root veggies...

All of these are nice because most of the work is done way before anyone arrives, so my kitchen time is minimal and I can visit with my friends.

I've also been known to throw the Foreman grill on the table (okay, if you have a Panini press that might be classier...) with nice bread, cold-cuts, cheeses, and spreads like pesto or chipotle mayo then let my friends make their own panini. But we're a pretty informal bunch (we've been doing this for about a decade now) so playing with our food is entirely expected.


Our very casual go-to meal is BBQ.

My husband is a genious with the smoker; pulled pork or brisket are my favorite. Pair that with homemade baked beans or mac & cheese, coleslaw, and and banana pudding and it's bound to please.

i'm pretty sure migas are tex-mex, and not true mexican food. i've never seen them made with chips. we've always made them with sliced, fried corn tortillas. i've also had migas at a tapas bar in spain where they use croutons/old bread crumbs. yum!!!!

My two go-to meals are: Beef Bourguignon with mashed potatoes (all stuff you can make ahead, just heat it up, have some wine & a green salad) or a fabulous pot of green chile with fresh tortillas/chips ...have some refried beans or beef handy, and the usual tomato, sour cream and cheese so anyone can make a burrito/ taco/tostada combination if they want. And extra hot sauce! (The green chile recipe is from an awesome restaurant in New Mexico, and I add two bags of spinach)

I can always count on the Chicken Marbella from the Silver Palate Cookbook to please the most varied of crowds. Despite its odd ingredients (prunes and green olives), it appeals to a broad range of palates. Add to that the fact that it can be made well ahead of time (even improves with time, according to the recipe), it makes a great company meal. Some rice to soak up the juices, maybe some crusty bread and a good green salad make for a great dinner that doesn't have the host bouncing off the walls in those moments before it's served.

We do chili for over 30 people for the Super Bowl every year. It is a great dish for a large group because you can make it the day before and reheat.

We do red chili the day before and then white chicken chili the day of (although we cook and chop the six pounds of chicken breasts for it the day before). A friend brings vegetarian chili (made with textured soy protein) that she also does the day before. Add three or four dozen jalpneo cheddar corn muffins (we bought extra muffin pans just for this occasion) and run them in shifts in the double ovens. Add two pans of butterscotch blondies, high quality vanilla ice cream (locally made), and caramel sauce and you have dessert.

Beverages are easy with chili; we offer beer, hard cider, wine, soft drinks and waters. We have guests bring apps and other dessert options. They always are glad to contribute.

For something fancy for a group of 8 to 10, we do a two to three pound tenderloin in a single beef wellington because it can be seared and assembled early in the day and then baked, sliced and sauced and sauced right before serving (or bringit to the table whole -- it is a great presentation!). Accompany with a blue cheese and shitake potato gratin (it bakes for an hour and can be put in the oven before guests arrive), and steamed haricots verts. We start with a salade compose of greens, asparagus, red onion rings, orange supremes and a creamy lime dressing. Fnish up with a frozen chocolate mousse (made the night before) and you have a fuss-free dinner party!

Do you brush both sides or only one side of the tortillas with oil before the oven?

That egg recipe looks great!

If I'm cooking for a crowd, I tend to make something like a baked pasta or a roast chicken with a green salad. I don't like having lots of burners going when I'd rather be social with guests. I'm the sort of person who makes all my sides for Thanksgiving the day or two before so they can reheat in the oven while the turkey rests!

The last couple of times we've had guests over we've made fondue. It's low maintenance and interactive, great for gatherings!

I usually just fry up stale corn tortillas, though baking them would be healthier. Our goal with migas has always been to replicate the migas at the Tamale House in Austin. The trick to that has been adding some milk with the scrambled eggs (something I pretty much never do otherwise) and include chopped fresh tomatoes when cooking the onions/jalapenos. so good, with a slightly pink tint to the eggs, served wet as you noted in your recipe. And as someone else noted, I believe it is Tex-Mex - but who cares, it's good!

As for group dinners that are more hit than miss, beercan chicken is always good bet. Baba ghannouj is also a pretty consistent crowd pleaser, though remembering to roast garlic ahead of time is usually the only thing that holds me back there (I can't stand baba ghannouj or hummus with *just* raw garlic). I also do up a big salad ripped off from salad I had in a Scottsdale restaurant that turned me into a salad eater (cold pearl couscous, chopped baby spring mix, peptias, raisins, corn, tomatoes, & light, slightly sweet vinagerette). That way I get to feel like I'm feeding people healthy food and don't have to take up burner/oven space. Now that it's summer, I'll also just chop up a bunch of veggies, toss with balsamic vin & olive oil, then grill.

These ideas all sound so good. I guess being as ready as possible before guests arrive is the best idea...and that rules out migas!

Skinnyfatty, you want oil on both sides of the tortillas, but I usually accomplish that by stacking them as I go, so the oiled top of one tortilla rubs off on the unoiled bottom of another as I oil its top. I find that this does a good job of limiting the amount of oil I use; if you use too much, the baked chips don't taste or feel right.

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