Essentials: Hummus
Sometimes I recall that I grew up without hummus and am amazed. It seems like such a natural kid-food, but it just wasn’t around in Houston then (now it is—my childhood, we’re talking decades ago now, people). I discovered hummus in my Yankee college town, at a little bakery that slathered it on a large, soft pita and wrapped it up with sliced tomatoes and onions. It dripped all over the place but was heavenly, especially during finals when one’s brain couldn’t be expected to function on dining-hall fare alone.
As a single girl in Manhattan, I had to be careful about buying hummus because I could eat a whole container over the course of an idle afternoon. What began as a little snack would end up a crime scene featuring me splayed out on the sofa with a magazine, eyeing an empty plastic tub and a half-full bag of baby carrots with horror: what have I done? My Lebanese friend warned me that hummus was full of fat. My Israeli friend taught me which brands would do (Sabra) and which would not (all the other ones) and convinced me to buy a vat of tahini. I learned some (some) self-control and self-sufficiency, and now I make my own hummus.
Right now my favorite version is from The Art of Simple Food. Although it turned out magically well the first time I made it, it’s been good but not mind-blowing on subsequent attempts. The first time was good enough that I keep trying to recapture it. I used to make the hummus from How to Cook Everything, and I’m intrigued by a recipe that appeared this month in Food & Wine. The chef in the magazine says that hummus is the hardest thing to get right, but for me, without an Israeli frame of reference, it’s seems hard to get hummus wrong. Mine is inconsistent and probably not up to Israeli standards, but boy, does it taste good to me.
I haven’t seen garlic scapes in the New York markets yet (maybe they are there for the early birds? I’ve been waking up late) but tossing a small handful of garlic scapes into the food processor instead of garlic is also very nice.
About the author: Robin Bellinger recently escaped a career in book publishing, which was cutting into her cooking time. Now she's a freelance editor and can bake bread on Tuesday afternoon if she feels like it. She lives in Midtown Manhattan with her husband and blogs about cooking and crafting at home*economics.
Hummus
-makes about 2 cups-
Adapted from The Art of Simple Food
Ingredients
About 2 cups cooked chickpeas (from 3/4 cup dried, or 1 can drained)
1/4 cup tahini
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, peeled and pounded to a puree
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
1/4 cup chickpea cooking liquid or water (if needed)
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin (optional)
Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
Procedure
Purée the chickpeas in a food mill, food processor, or blender. Stir in the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, olive oil, and salt and mix until smooth. Add some cooking liquid or water to smooth it out if necessary. If you like, stir in the cumin and cayenne.
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17 Comments:
I just about grew up on this stuff! I was a teenager before I realized that it was made form chickpeas! (Or as we referred to them by their Hebrew name "naheet"). I've seen hummus made with roasted red peppers and sun dries tomatoes (yuch) but I think the original is still the best!
RichardCrystal at 1:35PM on 05/16/08
I adore hummus. I believe that cumin is a must- the smoky flavor is such a nice touch. I tend to use Tabasco sauce for a bit of heat as I like the added acidity.
tracychin at 1:38PM on 05/16/08
I wonder why it's better to just puree the beans in the food proc, vs. doing all the ingredients. I do mine completely in the food proc (add the oil and lemon juice while its running) and it turns out good. But maybe it could be GREAT if I do it this way? Hmmm
darbyalycen206 at 1:41PM on 05/16/08
This is pretty much the same recipe I always use. Cumin is essential. It brings out so much flavor. You'll never buy packaged hummus again!
@darbyalycen206: I throw everything in together too. Pureeing the chickpeas first probably ensures an even consistency. But I don't mind finiding a whole chickpea in my hummus once in a while.
LiveToEat at 2:34PM on 05/16/08
I agree with the chef in that article. I've had way too much mediocre hummus, both packaged and at restaurants. The only good packaged stuff that I've found besides Sabra is the Tribe forty spices flavor. All their other ones are meh but that one has a nice kick to it.
sloppy at 2:40PM on 05/16/08
Not sure how wide their distribution is, but i live in the Detroit area (kind of a mecca for hummus in the US) and a local company called Garden Fresh has recently started making Hummus and it's awesome. I've only tried the regular flavor so far, but it tastes fresh, clean, just the right amount of acid and smooth as silk. Costco carries it around here, as well as some of the popular supermarkets. Full disclosure-they're a local company, but the only connection I have to them is that I eat their stuff.
Cuttr at 6:17PM on 05/16/08
A question for all you fellow hummus lovers - does a food mill give a creamier consistency? I always make mine in my food processor and while tasty, the texture is a little grainier than I would like. Suggestions?
Melinda at 6:28PM on 05/16/08
I hear the blender is the way to go if you want super smooth, creamy hummus. It's a little trickier than the food processor, though.
piccola at 7:58PM on 05/16/08
Cooks Illustrated magazine has an article / recipe this month addressing the texture issue. I haven't tried it yet but you might want to check it out.
Cuttr at 10:20AM on 05/17/08
I use a blender, and though you need to do intervals of stirring with a rubber spatula and it's a pain to get it all out of there, it's pretty smooth any creamy. I've actually never tried using a food processor.
LiveToEat at 11:12AM on 05/17/08
If i find chickpeas here, I'll have to try this...I miss hummus so much. Especially Sabra! mmmmm
machellebelle at 9:10AM on 05/21/08
This may be sacrilege...but can you use something besides tahini, or leave it out? I have a can of chickpeas and I keep thinking I should make bean salad but I don't like bean salad, so I can't bring myself to do it. Would rather make hummus but can't get tahini...
akk328 at 1:29PM on 05/21/08
ya cumin really is a must. If you're travelling in the M.East you'll never taste a hummus without some cumin, and sprinkled on top too. Then depending on the occasions and who you're making your hummus for, you can create fancier variations by topping off finished hummus with chickpeas or almonds, pinenuts, etc.
Also, our family has a very long lived tradition of adding yoghurt too. I can guarantee that it produces the creamiest texture ever and IMO really does something wonderful to the overall taste of hummus. If ever, I posted a recipe to it here: http://swirlandscramble.blogspot.com/2008/02/little-bit-of-this-and-little-bit-of.html
MariannaF at 1:42PM on 05/24/08
@akk328, I have not tried it without tahini, but I have read recipes that use only olive oil, no tahini. I think it's worth a shot.
Robin Bellinger at 2:05PM on 05/24/08
@akk328: try peanut butter. I've never done it that way, and it'll certainly taste a bit different. But I've seen it mentioned as a substitute for tahini.
razkolnikov at 9:44PM on 05/24/08
I make a very basic humus for my one year old - chickpeas, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. He loves it.
Kmelion at 7:23AM on 05/26/08
I don't have a food processor, so I've been using my potato masher instead. While it isn't buttery smooth, it still beats store-bought any day. I haven't been adding cumin yet, but I will now! Also, I must be weird in that two cloves of raw garlic (for hummus and baba ghannouj) is just too much for me. I've found a nice balance using one small raw clove of garlic (pulverized to a nice consistency with a zester/fine grater) and 4 cloves-1 bulb of roasted garlic (I
I too grew up without hummus (and many other delicious foods, bless my meat&potatoes mother's heart), but thankfully, I've overcome my much-deprived childhood :P
joyyy at 1:12PM on 06/29/08