Essentials: Fish Tacos
Since I was raised on wonderfully lardy, cheesy Tex-Mex, it took me a while to come around to the ungloppy goodness that is a fish taco. In the early 1990s fish tacos became something of a craze in Houston, if I remember correctly, but I was not on board. In my wisdom and maturity today, however, I embrace all foods Mexican or Mexican-ish, including tortillas (corn or flour) full of fish (fried or grilled) and slaw (or salsa, or avocados, or whatever feels right).
This is the sort of thing a competent and intuitive cook can put together with no recipe. I have made brilliant fish tacos off the top of my head, but I have also made some less satisfying ones, with poorly cooked fish or unbalanced flavors. When I can get it right every time, I will know that I have arrived as a home cook. Until then, I rely on recipes to reorient me when I get off track. This is my current favorite. It's fast and fairly healthy but always feels somehow celebratory to me.
Instead of tilapia, I use the cheapest wild-caught flaky white fish available. I never cut the fish into strips before cooking. Plain yogurt (which I always have at home) is a perfectly acceptable substitute here for sour cream (which I never do).
About the author: Robin Bellinger recently escaped a career in book publishing, which was cutting into her cooking time. Now she's a freelance editor and can bake bread on Tuesday afternoon if she feels like it. She lives in Midtown Manhattan with her husband and blogs about cooking and crafting at home*economics.
Fish Tacos
- serves 4 -
Adapted from Everyday Food: Great Food Fast
Ingredients
1/4 cup reduced-fat sour cream or plain yogurt
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Coarse salt and fresh ground pepper
1/4 small red cabbage, thinly shredded (about 2 1/2 cups)
4 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1/2 cu)
1 jalapeno chile, halved lengthwise, one half minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound tilapia fillets (or other firm white fish), cut into 16 equal strips
8 flour tortillas (6-inch)
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves
Procedure
1. In a large bowl, combine the sour cream and lime juice; season with salt and pepper. Transfer half the mixture to another container; set aside for serving. Toss the cabbage, scallions, and minced jalapeno with the remaining sour-cream mixture. Season again with salt and pepper.
2. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the oil and remaining jalapeno half over medium-high heat; swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. In two batches (starting with any larger pieces), cook the fish until golden brown on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes. Discard the jalapeno.
3. Meanwhile, warm the tortillas. I do this on top of the stove in another skillet as I cook the fish.
4. Fill the tortillas with slaw, fish, and fresh cilantro leaves. Drizzle with the reserved sour-cream mixture and serve immediately.
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8 Comments:
I have come to love fish tacos and like you, mine never quite come out the same way twice. I'll give these a try.
MelsDiner at 1:51PM on 05/02/08
For about a month now I've been promising myself to make fish tacos. Perhaps this will give me the extra push I need to do it. I think I'll stop at the store on my way home.
puppymomma at 1:55PM on 05/02/08
MMMM I want to make them too! I'll tell you how they turn out...
lo82070 at 2:08PM on 05/02/08
When I first heard of fish tacos I couldn't imagine an idea much worse.
Until I had one. Now I dream about them. Boy, are they good.
Pappasitos and Berryhill's Tamales in Houston have great ones.
eatorama at 2:10PM on 05/02/08
Yum! I just made tuna tacos with a salsa verde and they were delicious... I like the addition of scallions in this recipe.
caviarandcodfish at 2:57PM on 05/02/08
I love this book's version of fish tacos - I made them last summer and Ben hasn't stopped requesting them since. (I used tilapia, but since I don't own a nonstick skillet, there were some stickage issues with my stainless steel pan...)
Luisa at 11:45AM on 05/05/08
It's all about the cilantro and lime with fish tacos...I've never understood how some people can not like cilantro. The only thing I always add is diced mango and a little extra lime, but then, I add fruit to everything whenever possible.
rosezilla at 10:42AM on 05/07/08
I agree with rosezilla that cilantro and lime is a must in a recipe like this and is what makes these fish tacos so delicious.
tacorecipes at 1:43PM on 04/15/09