Snapshots from Italy: Carrots in Marsala
The cluttered and dusty used bookstore on my block has become one of my favorite haunts, mostly for a sometimes campy and ever-revolving selection of old cookbooks. The Myra Breckenridge Cookbook displayed in the window last week made me laugh right out loud, but inside I found an even greater treasure—an old copy of Elizabeth David's Italian Food. It is impossible not to be inspired by David's evocative and vivid writing style, and thumbing through the dog-eared volume while imagining her travels through Italy in the early 1950s has become my new afternoon ritual.
The pages recently fell open to reveal her recipe for Carrots in Marsala; it instantly seemed so mouthwatering I had no choice but to head straight for the market.
With an abundance of spring vegetables appearing on the scene, it's easy to overlook carrots, especially when all you can find are the super-sized, woody specimens trapped in plastic bags in the grocery store. But young, tender, carrots are a springtime treat, and this simple preparation enhances their luscious savory-sweetness perfectly.
Carrots in Marsala
I adapted the recipe only in terms of quantity, and you can easily adjust it upward or downward. I began with about one pound of young carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal. Melt 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a deep sauté pan and add the carrots, briefly sautéing over medium heat to coat them evenly with the butter. Add 1/2 cup dry Marsala to the pan, and allow it to bubble up, then add enough water to almost cover the carrots. Sprinkle over about 1 teaspoon granulated sugar and a pinch of salt. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, cover the pan, and cook the carrots until they are just fork-tender. Remove the cover, and turn up the heat. Continue to cook the carrots, shaking the pan occasionally until the liquid has evaporated and the carrots are nicely glazed. Toss them with a bit of chopped Italian parsley, and serve immediately. Try to resist eating the entire quantity in one sitting.
About the author: Gina DePalma is the pastry chef at Mario Batali's Babbo restaurant in New York City and the author of Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen. She is currently in Rome doing research for her next book and further exploring her passions for Italian food.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.
3 Comments:
Two other fabulous recipes from that book are ED's versions of maiale en latte and osso bucco. Perfect, simple, pure.
I wish more cookbook authors (for the home kitchen) used her form of recipe-writing - which resembles human conversation as opposed to scientific formula.
Karen Resta at 8:46AM on 03/25/08
I'm reading a fascinating biography of the mother-daughter team responsible for "The Joy of Cooking" - Irma Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker - and apparently one of Irma's innovations was exactly the conversational recipe style you mention. The original "Joy" was privately published in 1936, and was in wide commercial circulation by 1945, so perhaps ED was influenced by the style in her own book.
akk328 at 1:03PM on 03/26/08
akk328 - I've been meaning to read Stand Facing the Stove for some time now. I'm glad you've reminded me of it - I think I'll order it today.
If you enjoy books on women's role in the world of cooking you might also enjoy Secret Ingredients - Race, Gender and Class at the Dinner Table by Sherrie Inness . Lots to chow down on there. :)
Karen Resta at 10:23AM on 03/29/08