I know we linked to both the "cheese on seafood pasta" story itself and the back story in our New York Times round-up yesterday, but I think many more serious eaters are going to want to weigh in on this subject, so I figured it deserves its own post.
The story's author, Robert Trachtenberg, tries to find out the origins of why so many Italian chefs both here and in Italy consider it culinary heresy to put grated cheese on seafood pasta. He uncovers many theories, but not the definitive answer.
I began my search for the answer by deIving into a book I co-wrote. The Young Man and the Sea, with Esca chef Dave Pasternack (who was quoted in the story), perhaps the pre-eminent seafood pasta chef in this country at least. This is what Dave said about this contentious issue in a headnote for the Fettuccine with Rock Shrimp, Cherry Tomatoes, and Feta recipe (a crazy delicious dish by the way): "Traditionally Italians didn't pair fish or shellfish with cheese, but these days you see it all over menus, both here and in Italy."
The bottom line is this: Good cooks who really know what they are doing can judiciously incorporate cheese into seafood pasta dishes in ingenious and delicious ways.
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