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Do You Put Cheese on Seafood Pasta?

2008031-grater.jpgI know we linked to both the "cheese on seafood pasta" story itself and the back story in our New York Times round-up yesterday, but I think many more serious eaters are going to want to weigh in on this subject, so I figured it deserves its own post.

The story's author, Robert Trachtenberg, tries to find out the origins of why so many Italian chefs both here and in Italy consider it culinary heresy to put grated cheese on seafood pasta. He uncovers many theories, but not the definitive answer.

I began my search for the answer by deIving into a book I co-wrote. The Young Man and the Sea, with Esca chef Dave Pasternack (who was quoted in the story), perhaps the pre-eminent seafood pasta chef in this country at least. This is what Dave said about this contentious issue in a headnote for the Fettuccine with Rock Shrimp, Cherry Tomatoes, and Feta recipe (a crazy delicious dish by the way): "Traditionally Italians didn't pair fish or shellfish with cheese, but these days you see it all over menus, both here and in Italy."

The bottom line is this: Good cooks who really know what they are doing can judiciously incorporate cheese into seafood pasta dishes in ingenious and delicious ways.

Fettuccine with Rock Shrimp, Cherry Tomatoes, and Feta

- serves 4 -
From the Young Man and the Sea: Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales from Esca, by David Pasternack and Ed Levine.

Ingredients

1 pound rock shrimp, peeled and deveined
Sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus high-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
1 to 2 jalapeños, stemmed and seeded, cut into thin matchsticks
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 cups cherry tomato purée
1 pound fresh fettuccine
6 ounces mild feta (preferably French)

Procedure

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.

2. Season the rock shrimp with salt and pepper. In a large, straight-sided sauté pan, heat the 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the shrimp and sear on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes a side. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a plate. Add the jalapeño(s) and garlic to the pan; sauté for about 3 minutes, until they soften. Add the cherry tomato purée; season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Simmer over low heat, until the tomato purée has thickened slightly, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the fettuccine to the boiling water. Cook for 1 minute less than the package directions instruct, then drain in a colander, reserving about 1/4 cup cooking liquid. Add the fettuccine and the cooking liquid to the pan of simmering tomato purée; increase heat to medium. Return shrimp to pan; toss to combine. Crumble the feta into the pan; continue to gently stir pasta and sauce for about 1 minute more. Taste to see if the mixture needs more salt (the saltiness of the feta can vary).

4. Serve the pasta in four wide, shallow bowls with drizzle of high-quality extra-virgin olive oil over the top of each serving along with some freshly ground black pepper.

Even if you're an avowed no-cheese-on-seafood-pasta person, this recipe might change your mind. What say you on this weighty subject?

31 Comments:

Sure I do. Why? I like cheese!

judiciously...

That is the key word that makes your statement spot on if you ask me.

I like grated cheese on linguine with clams. If you think that is an abomination, don't eat it.

Well a household favourite here is my mixed seafood risotto, and that has a socking great handful of parmesan. Each to their own, I say. Next subject on the list: which sauces go with which shapes of pasta? What combinations are a no-no?

I do - and I always feel guilty.

I do. I like pecorino on my linguine with clams, and I also put broccoli in it.

If the dish, seafood or otherwise, does not have cheese in it, I don't feel the need to add it.

If the dish already has cheese in or on it, I don't see why I need more of it. Very rarely will I add more cheese to an existing cheesey dish.

My husband will put copious amounts of cheese on anything--except seafood pasta. Carry over from when he worked at an Italian restaurant with a bunch of Italians, who didn't censor their opinions about ANYTHING.

I've always heard that it's a no-no, but really, to each his or her own. Shrimp and feta sounds like a nice combination, and I used to make a pasta primavera with shrimp and and an alfredo-type sauce. It was always well received.

Though the Italians may not in general tradition serve cheese with seafood if one travels slightly to the south, the Greeks do - one of the most well-known dishes being Garides Saganaki . The strong flavors of the resinated wine and accompaniments play the shrimp in a different way than in the Italian philosophy. An allusion could be made that it is like listening to different sorts of music - there's obviously room for all sorts.

Just realized I dropped the pasta in the previous post. Let me correct that.

Garides Saganaki is great with pasta.

:)

If I'm in the mood, I'll certainly add it to particular dishes, usually ones that involve shrimp or mussels. But I also am sensitive to my surroundings. If I know I'm somewhere where asking for extra cheese is going to upset someone, then I won't do it.

It's like using a knife and fork to eat sushi - sure, if you're in your own home (not that I would).

YES! I usually put grated or shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano on my seafood and pasta dishes, even if they are in Alfredo sauce!

I made a fish and shrimp gratin, with shredded cheese, and chunks of parboiled white fish, and it was very tasty. At the same time, I cringe at the thought of Parmesan on shrimp or clam linguine.

If it tastes good do it!!! (My credo for lots of things).

Yes, cheese on seafood is a crime. I never figured out why and never bothered to ask. It was give to me along with the other pasta rules:
1. Match shape to sauce
2. Do not overcook the pasta
3. Do not oversauce the pasta sauce is a condiment
..and those work so well, I couldn't deny the truth in the no cheese and seafood rule.

are you really supposed to cook the shrimp for 6-8 minutes *per side*?? that's longer than i'd cook a thick steak.

Whenever I make Shrimp & Pasta w/creamy Marinara Sauce, I use cream cheese, if that counts.

This was issue on PBS show with Colamenco (sp) this weekend, I hope NYT acknowledges this or is it another awful coincidence?

Like Dr. Ruth once said......."If it feels good..........do it". AND.......I do so, enthusiastically!

My mother in law is 100% old school Cajun and she would not consider ANY dairy with seafood. She shuddered at my creamy crawfish pasta. (BTW-it was YUM)

If you enjoy it and it tastes good to you - why not?

Simply say, please pass the parmiggiano or pecorino romano (in my case).

That being said, I like it with clams, but not on anything delicate - that would be heresy.

Any rule that says "always" or "never" is just waiting to be broken, and I think that's particularly true when it comes to food. Everyone's palate and everyone's experiences are different. I'd never put ketchup on a steak, but if someone wanted to, I wouldn't wrest the bottle out of their hands and lecture them about the taste of good beef.

If I was dining at someone's home and they offered cheese with a seafood pasta dish, I wouldn't be offended, and if they didn't offer it, I wouldn't ask for it. (Actually, dining at someone's home I wouldn't ask for anything extra unless it was something that I knew they intended on putting out, but perhaps forgot.)

At a restaurant, it seems to me that the policy should be that the customer is always right. Or that should be the policy if you want those customers back again. Maybe you don't want them back, and that's fine, too.

At a restaurant, it seems to me that the policy should be that the customer is always right. Or that should be the policy if you want those customers back again. Maybe you don't want them back, and that's fine, too.
dbcurrie at 1:33AM on 04/01/08

Interesting comment, dbcurrie. It can go both ways (being as it would be a rule that could be broken if it were to only go one way).

If the cooking is for the customer's taste (or "guest" is a more pleasant word) then whomever is at the table should always be right and the cook or chef would have to put themselves into service to make them happy.

In fine dining often however the chef is supposedly dominant in the guest/cook relationship - the chef (let us capitalize that into Chef) becomes the teacher, the arbiter of taste, the Artist(e).

This is not only because of chef's/cook's egos - it is also because guests like it. There is something about the theatre of being sublimated into the artist-chefs' world, to follow their wondrous lead, that many people enjoy.

Having said that, it is however different in various fine-dining mondes. In restaurants that are open to the public who have deep enough pockets to pay for the experience, the chef will be Artiste and often will refuse to accommodate tastes, as his food is to be understood as an phenomenal artistic experience.

In private fine-dining mondes, deep-pocket no-public admitted places such as the private dining rooms in clubs and the businesses that can afford to have them, the guest's taste will always be accommodated, the chef's ego sublimated to whatever it takes to woo them in their own way rather than in the chef's own way. Taste, being understood to be a highly subjective intensely personal thing, is allowed to be entirely so. One babies one's guests to ensure their pleasure.

Ha ha! Slightly off-topic but I've wanted to say that since reading one of AB's contentious commentaries on the fabulousness of restaurant chefs vs. corporate chefs.

Of course usually the corporate chefs at the top make a hell of a lot more money and don't even have to work weird hours and take to drinking like fishes.

(End rant.)

I'm off to invent a pasta recipe with cheese and fish. :)

I read a story...can't remember if it was on SE or somewhere else...

A man and woman are dining at some high-end fancy pants restaurant. The woman orders a fish dish off the menu, but requests that a slice of gruyere be served on top. The waiter brings the request to the Chef/Artiste, who immediately drops his work and heads out to the dining room to educate the foolish customers. Whe he arrives at their table, he sees that the customers are none other than Mr. and Mrs. Jacques Pepin. Who educates the Pepins on what they should and should not eat for dinner? I can't remember for sure, but I think the story ends with the chef greeting his guests warmly and serving the fish as requested.

Pasternack's recipe is a riff off Greek saganaki - the ONLY Mediterranean seafood dish with cheese I like. Something about the fact that feta cheese doesn't really melt and make the rest of the dish gooey.

That said, there are several English fish pies that use things like cheddar and potatoes and codfish that are yummy on a cold day...

I thought I'd remembered another pasta/seafood/cheese dish. Not with Parm but with ricotta. Traditional Italian cooking - from the book "Classic and Contemporary Italian Cooking for Professionals" by Bruno H. Elmer, C.M.C.

One of my favorite books that has stood the test of time, on page 187 it serves up (with a flourish): Lasagne con Animelle e Gamberetti (Individual Lasagne with Sweetbreads and Shrimp).

No excuses are given and none are required for this dish which combines fresh spinach pasta with sweetbreads, leeks, fennel, herbs and spices, mushrooms, beef broth, dry white wine, shrimp, a hint of tomato and red bell pepper, green peppercorns, ricotta, heavy cream and basil.

Some nice layers and spikes of taste and texture going on here, with the ricotta playing its part quite well.

What about lobster thermidor?

ooops... hit enter by mistake... should have said,

"What about lobster thermidor? It's not seafood pasta, but it is certainly seafood in cheese sauce. And it's totally classic."

Personally, I don't put cheese on my seafood pasta, usually because the flavor is too overwhelming to dishes that are often already rich (with cream, butter, olive oil, etc.). I'd use it on tomato-based seafood dishes. If I liked those. But I often find the taste of tomato and seafood unpleasant, so...

@Karen Resta, if you want to follow the analogy about Chefs being artists, even an artist at some point has to let go the control of his work, if he wants to sell it on the open market. Some sell to Hallmark for greeting cards, and some sell individual paintings for huge amounts of money, but once the artwork is in the hands of the client/purchaser, it is out of the artist's control. So, if I like the painting hanging up-side down, I can do that in my own home. Everyone may think I'm silly and wrong, and have no artistic taste, but the artist can't barge into my home and hang the painting right-side up. Once I have purchased the piece, I can do whatever I want with it, unless there is some contract to the contrary.

Once you have ordered food in a restaurant, and you have been served, it is yours because you are expected to pay for it. If ketchup or cheese or steak sauce or salt is normally available at the restaurant, it isn't unreasonable to ask for those things if you want to add them to your food, whatever it is. It may be weird, and the staff, your dining companions, and other diners may think you're a nutcase, but if you want ketchup on your spagetti, it's your spaghetti.

Some restaurants in some cities can survive with a Chef who runs things his way and refuses to accommodate reasonable requests from customers, because that Chef is truly an artist and the masses will pay a lot and put up with a lot to dine on that Chef's food. It is as much about the experience of dining there, and the celebrity of the chef, and the atmosphere of the place, as it is about the food. That Chef could get away with demanding that diners eat the food "as is" and the restaurant would still be popular with a certain segment of the population.

But in the majority of restaurants in most cities, a restaurant that wasn't willing to accommodate the diners' reasonable requests probably wouldn't last long.

I'm not saying it's right, wrong, cheesy fishy pasta or not. It's just a reality of the business. In a city like New York, a Chef-centric restaurant would do just fine. Where I live, it wouldn't last.

Yes, dbcurrie - I'm with you on that. I live in a place where the Fashion Marketing teacher at the High School tells her classes about the last year's field trip to NY where she was thrilled to actually walk by "CAR-Tee-Err" and "Oovs Saynt LOW-Rent".

A restaurant opened several years ago here that tried to do a bit of fusion cuisine. Nothing extreme . . . it was more like a TGIF menu upscaled a bit for attitude. Lots of buzz but it failed - and the space has now been filled with a "Meat and Three" type place where the fare is based on the dichotomy of ham or turkey baked and basted with tattered Rebel flag . . . served with three essence of tin-can vegetables tin topped with Butter Buds.

I can say "Chacun sa gout" and mean it, though somewhere in my soul my eyes may be rolling.

No cheese-and-seafood pasta in this town, though. We can't have that.

After all, we have McDonald's Filet-O-Fish Sandwich, which is always topped with not-quite-melted-enough American cheese. And that, is enough seafood-and-cheese for whatever appetites exist, apparently.

I find it a little funny that on one hand, snobs will turn up their noses and proclaim that cheese and seafood is an abomination, but on the other hand, chefs that are creating daring new combinations are all the rage. B and but those same combinations might be weirder than shrimp and cheese.

Nose to tail eating is another new trend, but it's nothing more than what people did when they couldn't afford to waste any bit of the food. Except now it comes at a high price at a trendy restaurant.

The proper thing to do was to peel your potatoes before you mashed them, and finding a skin in there was yukky, but now the peels make rustic "smashed potatoes" trendy and fancy.

People are all over the organic bandwagon and read labels to see what sort of chemicals are in their food, yet others flock to restaurants that are into the idea of molecular gastronomy and using interesting chemicals to do odd things to food. And some of those same chemicals are the same ones people read on labels and get all squeamish about.

There's room for all of it. I feel about food the same way I do about religion. I don't care what condiments you use or how you season your steak, but I don't want you coming over to my table and telling me how I should or shouldn't eat my food. I might be interested in trying your version if you invite me, or if you explain your reasoning, but I tend to get a little hostile if you just come over to my table and sprinkle your seasonings around.

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