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Dinner Tonight: Iron Pot Chicken

20080129-dinnertonight-chicken.jpgI almost didn't survive the second stage of this recipe, when fermented fish sauce hits the hot pan, and it suddenly seemed like the the scent of a thousand dead fish had washed upon my kitchen's shores. I almost turned back. The nutty, cheesy, anchovy smell was overwhelming—how could this eventually taste good? But a short writeup in last week's New York Times food section had promised me a "bright, palate-awakening blend of salty, sweet and spicy" that could be made in 12 minutes. I pressed on.

It's a good thing. This, my first foray into Vietnamese cooking, was utterly easy and delicious. That suspicious-smelling fish sauce gave the dish a rich, salty complexity that it had no business possessing after just ten minutes' cooking time. I couldn't find the fresh chilies the recipe called for, but using half as many dried ones and adding them earlier in the recipe worked fine (dried red chilies are better than a fresh green like serrano, which would give it a more astringent than mellow kick). I also couldn't find boneless, skinless chicken thighs, which turned out fine, except cutting away the meat from the bone was a bit of a hatchet job. Just for the ease of it, I might make this with skinless breasts next time, but the meat probably wouldn't have quite the richness that dark meat imparts.

Iron Pot Chicken

- makes 2 servings -

Ingredients

3 tablespoons fish sauce
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 large shallots, cut into quarters, or half a medium onion, cut into 8 wedges
1 pound chicken thigh meat (about 1.3 pounds on the bone), cut into bite-size pieces
10 fresh Thai bird chilies, stemmed and crushed, or 4-5 dried ones; in a pinch (no pun intended) use red chili flakes
1 inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into fine julienne or matchsticks
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup chicken stock or water
2 sprigs cilantro, chopped
1/2 cup cooked white rice, for serving (optional)

Procedure

1. In a small bowl, stir together fish sauce and sugar until partially dissolved. Heat the oil in a 10 or 12 inch skillet (doesn't have to be iron) over medium heat. Add shallots or onion and cook, stirring, a couple minutes until soft but not brown.

2. Add fish sauce mixture (and dried chilies, if using) and stir as sugar caramelizes and turns golden brown, 1-2 minutes.

3. Add chicken pieces and and stir until opaque, about 2 minutes.

4. Add fresh chilies (if using), ginger and black pepper, and stir for 2 minutes.

5. Add stock or water, raise heat to high, and bring to a boil. Turn heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until sauce is reduced and thickened and chicken is cooked, about 5 more minutes.

6. Stir in cilantro and, if desired, serve over rice.

View other entries from Dinner Tonight.

16 Comments:

Ha! I just made this like five minutes ago for an early dinner. It was so easy! I thought the fish sauce mixed with the sugar gave off less fumes than the fish sauce on its own. But -- I couldn't find the correct chilis either and just grabbed some from a veggie stand. Assuming they weren't very hot, I split them down the middle to add more spice to my dish. Way, way too spicy! My fault, not the recipe's. Great recipe.

I'm glad you powered through with the fish sauce. It's good! It's our friend! There are far fishier and more pungent weapons in the Vietnamese cooking arsenal.

I couldn't find the thai bird chiles either. Used serranos (thank you, helpful lady at Fairway!)--but only three--and the heat seemed about right. But it was way too sweet ("That's a tablespoon sugar each serving, Mom" as my son pointed out.) Next time, not sure if I should cut down on just the sugar, or the sugar AND fish sauce. (And Blake, I'm sure it's a pain to cut the bone-in chicken thighs from the bone, but it's also a major pain to cut away the fat and yucky parts from boneless thighs.)

@mmmargie: Really? I'm afraid! And excited! I'd love to hear more about those fishy and pungent weapons.

can someone recommend a brand of fish sauce? tia.

I always get sick to my stomach when the fish sauce hits the pan, but the results are always worth it.

Would not recommend using white meat. The final product would be far less tantalizing.

@cybercita: I've heard good things about Tiparos, which is a Thai fish sauce. I think that Vietnamese fish sauce is much more difficult to find.

thanks. i think i can get that at hanh ah rheum. this recipe does look great!

on second thought, blake, i live in nyc, so i should be able to lay my hands on just about anything... what brand did you use?

Cybercita, I used Tiparos. Check out Bangkok Center Grocery at 104 Mosco st. in Chinatown. There's a super cheap dumpling place next door, too!

This blogger has a good post on mam nem (preserved fermented fish: http://www.hustlerofculture.com/me_we/2007/12/say-hello-to-st.html

Usually mixed into a wonderful dipping sauce to be eaten with the Vietnamese beef fondue (bo nhung dam). Different brands (often made in Vietnam) are very hit or miss - you buy the wrong bottle, and just opening it can turn your stomach. But sometimes worth the risk for the yummy dipping sauce :)

Other stuff:
mam ruot (fermented fish paste - "made from flesh and entrails"!)
mam ca loc (preserved fish - actual fish parts!)
mam tom (shrimp paste - probably the least offensive of these last three)

p.s. My family likes a fish sauce that has an orange label with the map of Vietnam on it. I think it's actually made in Thailand though.

1 pound boneless chicken to make two servings? That's a big serving of meat.

This recipe is great--very quick and easy to prepare and the taste is outstanding. I used 1/2 the recommended sugar and it really turned out perfect, using the whole amount recommended might be too sweet. This is one of my my successful forays into SE asian food, and will remain in my recipe book for years to come.

In regards to the fish sauce, this was my first time. I did a little web research and found a concensus amongst "those who know" more than I do and they suggested Tra Chang brand. $1.59 at local asian grocery. You can also find the Thai chilis at any asian grocer as well.

And yes, this is way more than 2 servings with 1 pound of meat. Last me about 4 servings. Give it a try.

this was very sweet - i also recommend less sugar but mine turned out very SALTY as well... i was doubling the recipe but maybe the sauce didn't need to be doubled? i could tell the flavor would have been fantastic if it wasn't so salty... gonna try to figure out what went wrong and try again!

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