Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
My take on marinara sauce (actually the sauce of the seafarers) is a basic tomato sauce. In some places it just means garlic oil and parsley, and in others it is as elaborate as tomatoes, peppers, and lots of herbs.
I use it as a building block in lots of dishes as well as just a simple quick pasta sauce that can be transformed in a thousand ways. If you add chile flakes, you have arrabbiata; if you add anchovies, chile flakes, olives, and capers, you have puttanescaboth only for pasta and so on and so forth.
I have seen places in the States serve fish or meat with the preceding two Italian phrases and am embarrassed for the chefs who have not traveled to Italy. Anyway, this is my recipe, and it is as simple as opening a can. The key here is San Marzano tomatoes from Italynot from Chile and not from California.
About the author: Mario Batali has created a thriving restaurant empire and has established himself as a top restaurateur. Together with his partner, Joe Bastianich, he operates seven New York City hotspots. Mario splits his time between New York City's Greenwich Village and northern Michigan with his wife Susan Cahn of Coach Dairy Goat Farm, and their two sons. More Mario: mariobatali.com.
Basic Tomato Sauce
Ingredients
6 tablespoons virgin olive oil
1 Spanish onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1/2 medium carrot, finely shredded
2 28-ounce cans of tomatoes, crushed by hand and mixed well with their juices
Salt, to taste
Procedure
1. Place oil into a sauce pan with onions and garlic, and cook over medium heat until translucent but not brown (about 10 minutes). Add the thyme and carrot; cook 5 minutes more. Add the tomatoes. Bring to a boil and then lower the heat to just bubbling, stirring occasionally for 30 minutes.
2. Season with salt to taste. Serve immediately or set aside for further use. The sauce may be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 6 months.
About the author: Mario Batali has created a thriving restaurant empire and has established himself as a top restaurateur. Together with his partner, Joe Bastianich, he operates seven New York City hotspots. Mario splits his time between New York City's Greenwich Village and northern Michigan with his wife, Susan Cahn, of Coach Dairy Goat Farm, and their two sons. More Mario: mariobatali.com.
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24 Comments:
I made that sauce every Saturday from January through March this year. I put on 20lbs. Thanks.
The key is stocking up on the San Marzano cans, as pictured. Wholefoods, at least by me, is somewhat inconsistent and I refuse to use their house brand.
jayfallon at 11:59AM on 10/05/07
Indeed. This is a great sauce, negate the thyme and it's super similar to the sauce my mom and grandma have made all their lives.
Prairie at 12:37PM on 10/05/07
With all due respect to Mr. Batali, I have to disagree about the obligate use of Italian tomatoes. While I am a firm believer in the concept of terroir, I am a firmer believer in the virtues of local food. Most areas of the US are capable of producing high-quality San Marzano tomatoes. The seeds of the variety are readily available, they are not difficult to grow, and they are easily preserved at home using well-known techniques.
I have tasted the tomatoes pictured above. They are indeed very good. I have also grown San Marzano and other varieties myself that are at least the equal of their Italian counterparts. I invite Mr. Batali to come enjoy my pizza with homegrown San Marzanos, and see if he can tell the difference.
gmunger at 1:23PM on 10/05/07
Make it in large quanities and then freeze in small batches. Then whenever you're lacking inspiration for dinner or want to try one of Mario's recipes, take a portion out of the freezer, defrost, and you're halfway to deliciousness.
Jeana at 1:26PM on 10/05/07
I believe the San Marzano tomatoes in the picture are grown in the US.
ebpizza at 2:15PM on 10/05/07
ok here is my take on a basic tomato sauce.
Open 2 cans of San Marzano tomatoes and drain the excess water, not the packing juice/puree. Pass the tomatoes and juice through a food mill and put it aside.
Saute about 1/2 cup onions in extra virgin olive oil for a few minutes
Add the tomatoes, handful of fresh basil and salt.
Bring to a boil, boil for 5 mins.
Lower to simmer for about 40mins. Add fresh basil again during the last 10 minutes.
Optional: brown pork before adding the onions.
ebpizza at 2:20PM on 10/05/07
I grew roma, plum, paste tomatoes in my yard and canned them( they are the only tomatoes I can) and my sauce was fabulous. I don't like to use canned unless I have no other option. Canned is full of salt.
Having said that sauce is a personal thing. I like to use basil and I don't use carrot but wine or tomato paste to thicken and put in some sweetness.
My crew likes some pepper flakes and lots of locatelli.
Mario's recipe sounds lovely and I am sure it is personal to him.
Now can we talk about meatballs?
JerzeeTomato at 2:25PM on 10/05/07
I love this sauce. It's basic, unpretentious, and really makes everyday pasta something a little special. It's been my go-to marinara for some time now. I recently used up the last in my freezer, so this is a great reminder that it's time to make another batch. Thanks Chef!
ErikaWaz at 4:48PM on 10/05/07
I was also fooled by the tomatoes pictured. I believe I saw a can once say "Product of Canada", either way, they are certainly not from Italy.
Freedom at 7:45PM on 10/05/07
Mmmm, can hardly wait to taste this! My favortie kind of sauce
paris221966 at 10:26PM on 10/05/07
I was just about to post "CAVEAT EMPTOR" in light of the deliberately deceptive label on the cans SOLD BY WHOLE FOODS MARKETS. Then I noticed others have posted the same warning. So, I'll add related comments:
1) I was fooled, too. It really is a marketing ploy, especially given the use of Italian words "Pomidori Pelati" in addition to retro-style graphics that are meant to appear Old World.
2) From what I understand, the prized tomatoes of San Marzano (near Naples) disappeared long, long ago. What I am writing here may not be accurate, so I am willing to stand corrected by an informed authority. However, I was told that seeds from these tomatoes were imported and grown elsewhere before the destruction of native crops and that "San Marzano" is now being used liberally as the name of a type of tomato whether or not the canned product can trace its lineage back to San Marzano.
Meanwhile, the area around San Marzano has become important both for living up to its traditional reputation for superior tomatoes and for processing tomatoes. Look for "DOP" on labels that promise the contents of the can were grown in San Marzano proper. Balducci sells them under the name La Valle for a low, promotional price; there are other brands that are also great. If the can does not say DOP, the tomatoes were shipped in from anywhere and merely processed near San Marzano. (And wait for a new article in The New Yorker about DOP tomatoes.)
3) I have to agree that there are other good brands of canned plum tomatoes. I've had luck w Ferrrara, recently. When in season, local plum tomatoes or even a mixture of different types of flavorful tomatoes produce a good sauce, though the yield on the latter is usually low if they're juicy and full of seeds. After all, local, seasonal, superior tomatoes honor the spirit of Italian cooking.
Eliz. at 1:22PM on 10/06/07
I just removed the image of the questionable "San Marzano" canned tomatoes. Thanks for pointing that out, folks. I've never used those kind before—I usually use whatever I find at the grocery store that says "imported from Italy" on the label. Thanks.
Adam Kuban at 4:00PM on 10/06/07
Adam,
Mario really isn't checking back here on things.
So who actually is putting these posts together?
I believe he would know if something is from Italy or not, yes?
Someone - please clarify?
Neroda at 6:01PM on 10/06/07
Neroda: They're Mario's words, and we try to add pictures to illustrate them. I made the mistake of using the wrong tomatoes. I apologize.
Adam Kuban at 10:26PM on 10/06/07
Ive made the same sauce all my adult life with the addition of fresh basil, unfortunately, in the wilds of Alabama, I cant find san marzano tomatoes. So i usually end up using a good brand organic, it seems to work out fine. also, instead or plain old kosher salt I really like gray salt, I know its probablty mind over matter, but I can taste the diff.
huney_bumper at 11:52AM on 10/07/07
Mark Bittman wrote a piece on the whole canned tomato issue in Cook's Illustrated of March/April 1994. A tasting was held with Anna Teresa Callen; Arthur Schwartz; Anna Amendolara Nurse; Iris Carulli; Julia della Croce; Tina della Croce; Tina Aprea, Jack Bishop and Mark Bittman. Really interesting article.
The final question though is not one of which tomatoes are "best" or which tomatoes are "authentic" in this case, for when someone writes a recipe as Mario did here, it is his perogative to say "This is how I make it and it is important (in order to do it my way) to use the ingredients as written". Alter the ingredients and you've got a different recipe - maybe just as good in taste to you, but different.
The Whole Foods canned tomato thing is amusing, though.
Karen Resta at 12:10PM on 10/07/07
I Google'd the cached page to see the picture that was removed and I've seen that brand at a local Italian market. In my opinion, the problem with those and most other canned tomatoes is the addition of citric acid. If you cook those down, the acid becomes more and more pronounced, making the sauce bitter. I have written it many times before on sites like this - the best tomatoes are the ones that have NO CITRIC ACID! Make a sauce with the precious San Marzanos like the ones pictured and a the same sauce with a can of regular tomatoes with no citric acid and see the difference. Now, if you can get San Marzanos with no citric acid (like you used to), it's Heaven.
mikenmolly at 5:11PM on 10/07/07
I made this tonight. Excellent! Thanks for posting.
Unfortunately, I had a jar of leftovers ready to go in the freezer, dropped it, and it spilled everywhere! Ouch.
NSW at 8:22PM on 10/08/07
as an addendum....
Kim Pierce at the Dallas Morning News
http://eats.beloblog.com/archives/2007/10/dop_means_real_san_marzano_tom.html
has great info on the San Marzano DOP tomatoes. worth reading
cheers,
Neroda at 10:51AM on 10/14/07
I have been using this recipe since 1997 when it was published (exactly as written here) in the New York Post with the title "Mario's Secret Sauce Recipe." My note says "From Chef Mario Batali, Po's Restaurant." How far he has come since then!
cookbookchick at 12:33PM on 10/14/07
I make a sauce from home-grown Roma tomatoes cut in half and layered with fresh basil and garlic cloves - slow cooked in the oven and then run through a food mill. I freeze as much as I can to get me through the winter. Don't add salt or pepper until you use it.
Add a couple heads of garlic to the roasting pan for other uses.
suegsf at 11:11AM on 10/20/07
This is the way I have always made my bacis tomato gravy (though not always with the carrot, though I can see using it for the sweetness it adds. This is a good basic tomato sauce. A good place to start off.
Emire at 10:48AM on 11/12/07
In case anyone who might benefit sees this, I agree with gmunger that I'm sad to see Mario, who has seen the joys of California produce, claim you can't get good San Marzano tomatoes in the US. I assure you that Mariquita and twosmallfarms dot com have fabulous San Marzanos for cooking- they suck for raw stuff, they are TOO low acid, but holy jeez cooked.. Love Apple Farms doesn't have it on their grow list this season- http://loveapplefarm.typepad.com/growbetterveggies/love-apple-farms-2008-tom.html but I bet Cynthia can tell you something good...
Ravara at 12:35AM on 03/14/08
Ravara: Wut wut wut?!!! Of COURSE I have it! I've turned too many people on to Super Marzano not to have it Yes, yes, it's not technically San Marzano, it's better.....it's SUPER Marzano! Come on out to my tomato seedling sale and pick some up. I've always got a lot of Super Marzanos for peeps. www.GrowBetterVeggies.com
Does this constitute spam? Forgive me if so. Just trying to spread the tomato love....
Love Apple Farm at 12:51AM on 03/15/08