The Best Fried Chicken Recipe Ever?
Many, many years ago, before I even started writing about food, I went to Atlanta on a business trip. I have no idea what the business trip was about, but what I really went to Atlanta to do was taste fried chicken. I went to to the justifiably famous Deacon Burton's, Mary Mac's Team Room, and a new restaurant, the Horseradish Grill, because I had heard that the chef there had learned how to make fried chicken from the legendary Edna Lewis (pictured, right). Deacon Burton's chicken was truly fine, Mary Mac's was merely very good, but the chicken made by Scott Peacock (also pictured), Edna Lewis' protégé, was damn near perfect. It was crisp, greaseless, perfectly seasoned, and had that one-two punch of great dark brown crust and tender, juicy meat that all great fried chickens must have.
When I showed up last weekend at the Southern Foodways seminar, what was in our welcome packet? A copy of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution's food section from October 18, which was mostly devoted to the joys of making and eating fried chicken. It had recipes from all the places I mentioned and even threw in the late Austin Leslie's Creole Fried Chicken with New Orleans Confetti, another sure-fire Fried Chicken Hall of Fame entrant.
Then, to complete my fried chicken education, I got a chance to hang out with Peacock at the conference, and we talked a lot about his and Ms. Lewis's fried chicken recipe, which he serves at his current Atlanta restaurant, Watershed, on Tuesday nights.
Related Recipes You Might Enjoy
The Lee Brothers' Tuesday Fried Chicken
Tyler Florence's Ultimate Potato Salad
Martha Stewart's Mac and Cheese
Scott Peacock's and Edna Lewis's Miraculously Good Fried Chicken
- makes 4 servings -
Adapted from The Gift of Southern Cooking. Hands-on time, 1 to 1 1/2 hours; total time, 24 hours or more.
This is the headnote from Journal-Constitution's Jim Achmutey and Rebecca Lang's headnote from their story:
This recipe, from Scott Peacock and Edna Lewis' The Gift of Southern Cooking, is the one the restaurant uses for its renowned Tuesday fried chicken nights. It blends the authors' best chicken-frying tips from Virginia and Alabama. The chicken gets two long soaks, Alabama-style, first in brine and then in buttermilk. The saltwater brine helps the flesh retain moisture and season it all the way through; the buttermilk adds a tangy flavor and helps tenderize it. The Virginia-style frying fat combines lard and sweet butter, flavored with a slice of country ham, making the chicken extra crisp and rich-tasting. The cornstarch in the dredge adds to the crispness as well. Other tips from the book: "Be sure to pat off all excess dredge; fry evenly at the proper temperature; and drain the chicken well on crumpled-up—not flat—paper towels or a wire rack.
Ingredients
1/2 cup kosher salt (do not use table salt for brining)
2 quarts cold water
1 three-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1 quart buttermilk
1 pound lard
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup country ham pieces, or 1 thick slice country ham cut into 1/2-inch strips
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Procedures
1. To make the brine: Stir kosher salt into cold water until dissolved. Place chicken parts in a nonreactive bowl or pot; add enough brine to cover completely. Refrigerate 8 to 12 hours.
2. Drain the brined chicken and rinse out the bowl it was brined in. Return chicken to the bowl, and pour the buttermilk over. Cover and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours. Drain the chicken on a wire rack, discarding the buttermilk.
3. Meanwhile, prepare the fat for frying by putting the lard, butter and country ham into a heavy skillet or frying pan. Cook over low heat for 30 to 45 minutes, skimming as needed, until the butter ceases to throw off foam and the country ham is browned. Use a slotted spoon to remove the ham carefully from the fat.
4. Just before frying, increase the temperature to medium-high and heat the fat to 335 degrees. Prepare the dredge by blending together the flour, cornstarch, salt and pepper in a shallow bowl or on wax paper. Dredge the drained chicken pieces thoroughly in the flour mixture, then pat well to remove all excess flour.
5. Using tongs, slip some of the chicken pieces, skin side down, into the heated fat. (Do not overcrowd the pan or the cooking fat will cool. Fry in batches, if necessary.) Regulate the fat so it just bubbles, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes on each side, until the chicken is golden brown and cooked through. Drain thoroughly on a wire rack or on crumpled paper towels, and serve.
Fried chicken is delicious eaten hot, warm, at room temperature or cold.
Related Recipes You Might Enjoy
The Lee Brothers' Tuesday Fried Chicken
Tyler Florence's Ultimate Potato Salad
Martha Stewart's Mac and Cheese
Photograph by Christopher Hirscheimer
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28 Comments:
Ed--great recipe post. Chef Peacock is an advocate for quality buttermilk, which can be difficult to find. Also, I know he used very young chickens when I tried it--very tender!
Margherita at 10:37AM on 10/30/07
Bacon, butter, AND lard? Come on. My cardiologist just had a heart attack hearing about this recipe. It does sound very, very tempting, though. Would the superlatives of this recipe survive if I substitute canola or peanut oil?
DaveFaris at 12:57PM on 10/30/07
I think so, Dave, but you will miss some of the porcine flavor the bacon and lard impart.
Ed Levine at 1:52PM on 10/30/07
just get the lard!
And not the hydrogenized one in a box. That's the one that's bad for you!
Pork sellers at farmers' markets have it now....
I've made this a bunch of times, from The Gift of Southern Cooking. An electric skillet is handy, to get the temperature right.
Perfect fried chicken!
guido at 3:19PM on 10/30/07
Oh Edna, cooking angel! Do you think this recipe would work for rabbit? Looking for an all-time great fried rabbit recipe!
hkravas at 4:34PM on 10/30/07
I am sure anything tastes good fried in that. I use canola oil and my chicken is pretty darn good. I love my people too much to kill them.
JerzeeTomato at 9:05PM on 10/30/07
Excellent thank you.
For those of you who state "love my people too much to kill them" - do you get any joy in this world? Do you just go through life chewing on carrots? Because I can't possibly believe this is a serious comment. I pity you.
Moderation is the key. And I'll be trying this recipe very soon...
bravian at 11:56PM on 10/30/07
Bravian, judging by her many comments on Serious Eats Jerzee Tomato derives much joy and pleasure from food. I agree with you that moderation is the key, and I'm sure Jerzee Tomato does, too. Let's keep the comments on-topic while adhering to the Serious Eats mantra of passionate, inclusive, and discerning. Especially when we're talking about fried chicken, a subject close to many people's hearts.
Ed Levine at 6:09AM on 10/31/07
Thats right! You see those ALABAMA techniques...and we have more!
You got to try and use lard for more things...especially the biscuits to go with that chicken. Some people have come around to using the corn meal, but others still in the dark about the cornstarch...
Works wonders with raw chicken strips (cornstarch) for bringing a slight crunch when deep fried then tossed with a stir-fry 'sauce' creating a texture and taste parallel without having to have those commercial woks for some 'Asian' inspired dishes we do.
...cook, chef, culinary sponge, traveler, volunteer, missionary.
tyronebcookin
tyronebcookin at 7:47PM on 10/31/07
How would I need to modify this recipe if I want to use skinless chicken breasts only?
ferreter at 2:20PM on 03/08/08
This sounds like a once-a-year recipe. Too good to pass up but too unhealthy to make often. I'm thinking 4th of July. . .
Stephanie at 11:44AM on 05/26/08
Can you use a counter top fryer instead of a pan?
josephtetro at 4:21PM on 08/25/08
"Can you use a counter top fryer instead of a pan?"
josephtetro at 4:21PM on 08/25/08
No, joseph, you cannot. The difference between deep frying and pan frying is twofold. First and most importantly, in pan frying, the meat is not submersed in oil. This allows steam to escape through the top, which makes for a better adhesion of crust to meat. Second and most importantly (I know) the pan itself does some of the cooking in pan frying. The pan is hotter than the oil that sits in it, which allows the crust to caramelize slightly where it touches the pan, making for a nice crispy, tasty crust. I personally prefer a cast iron skillet for that reason, though I understand Ed's comment that it is easier to regulate heat in an electric skillet. Leave the deep frier to the kids at the Colenel's. Pan frying is the essence of great fried chicken.
jfahle3 at 2:01PM on 09/14/08
BTW, for all the people worried about the fat content: take heart! The secret is to keep the temperature up. (This is true with any fried foods). The way to do that is to make sure not to crowd the pan, and to raise the temperature just before adding the chicken (then lower slowly, to regulate heat) and again just before turning the chicken. As long as you keep the temperature well above 212 F, the water in the chicken (or other food) will boil, turn to steam, and create a grease-proof barrier around the food. This is the difference not only between healthy and unhealthy fried foods, but also between tasty and greasy fried foods. As long as you keep the heat up, only a negligible amount of fat will be absorbed into the food. Don't believe it? Measure the fat before and after cooking. You should have almost the same amount.
jfahle3 at 2:07PM on 09/14/08
Thanks jfahle, Very good to know! I fry very little so that was very enlightening
josephtetro at 2:27PM on 09/28/08
I just want to add: live a little for God's sake! Don't try to change the recipe to fit some sanitary, wholesome variety. It is FRIED CHICKEN, not baked or steamed, but fried. And if you are not willing to sacrifice one dinner sitting to indulge in the best chicken you will ever taste, then "forget about it! This recipe is only for the brave who loves to have a piece of real fried chicken -whenever. Not everyday but some days!
molliebea at 1:40PM on 10/26/08
After reading other comments I have few suggestions that may help. First, Rice flour (which is healthier) can be substituded for corn starch and will give the same crispiness. Use 50/50 with flour. Second, put your flour mixture in a paper bag (or plastic grocery bag) and flour your chicken right out of the buttermilk shaking well. Rewmove chicken and place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and place in refridgerator for at least 1 hour (2 is better) before frying you will find that the coating becomes very sticky and will not come off while frying. Especially when deep frying. The crispy coating outstanding.
ChefG
ChefG at 2:09PM on 10/30/08
I am all for eating healthy. I work for an organic food co-op. I try and watch my diet. However..... Now and then you got to tell your body to strap in cause we are going for a ride! This sounds like a great ride. Occasionally it is necessary to feed the soul. One juicy thigh won't kill me.
GWiley at 8:47AM on 11/02/08
I posted a comment about my Thanksgiving dinner recently, and how I decided not to have turkey, but to try Edna Lewis's recipe for fried chicken. I said that the result was not that great, that it tasted just like any other fried chicken I've had. So I decided to go to this restaurant in Atlanta called "Watershed" who serves the Edna Lewis recipe chicken. I owe an apology to all the other bloggers. That was the best, most flavorful chicken. To top it off it had a light delicate crunch to it. I don't know what I did wrong when I tried Edna Lewis recipe, but I know one thing, it did not turn out like the chicken I had at "Watershed." Maybe I should try the recipe again.
jiffery at 11:03PM on 12/16/08
I haven't anything against bacon or ham, but am a purist with regard to fried chicken. The lard is fine, but any excessive ham- or smokey-flavor is a bit too much, in my opinion.
shaogo at 12:50PM on 02/24/09
Has anyone ever had the fried chicken from Omar Khayams in Manila? I had it in the mid 70s and have never had such wonderful chicken in my life. Do you have a friend from Manila that might know the secret?Lets see just how good this internet system is!
louisey at 4:29PM on 02/27/09
just a short comment to louisey on "how good this internet system is", its so good, that I managed to get you so many links for the chicken recipe from Omars, you shouldn't have to ask "a friend", you have the entire world at your fingertips, its not rocket science...........just Omars fried chicken....please, Enjoy all the chicken from Omars you can muster up an appetite for..........the secret is in the
link below!
http://search.aol.com/aol/search?s_it=searchbox.webhome&q=fried+chicken+recipe+from+Omar+Khayams+in+Manila
sweetlilbj at 12:42PM on 05/03/09
This is basically my Grannies recipe. It was and is the absolute best fried chicken I have ever laid my lips on. Granny pulled the skin off and she put a little cayenne in the brine and the dredge and to make it spicy. I miss my Granny not only did she make the best fried chicken but also many other home no recipe treats. Her measurements were like :butter as big as a hen's egg, enough milk to make it wet, and things like that. Self taught and her own sense of measurement but a great cook and a greater lady.
gregmahan at 4:44PM on 05/23/09
This cookbooks is awesome; rented it from the library! Really down home recipes in here.
Anything fried in lard is awesome, but I would save this type of recipe for a special event.
jlew911 at 1:56PM on 07/16/09
Ok ok. Enough with the lard comments! The idea is to enjoy this recipe once in a while. Not every meal! As with anything moderation is the key.....
southerngrill at 11:10AM on 08/02/09
I am cooking this tomorrow! Cannot wait to try it.
Come on people. Seriously have you not kept up with the current medical data out there? Lard is not bad!!! No transfats (you know those artery damaging things) Butter is not bad!!! I'll give you peanut oil, but Canola??? There is no such thing as a canola plant...It comes from the word Canada because it is a genetically engineered oil from the rapeseed plant. Our ancestors have been eating animal fats from the dawn of time,or at least fire :O) and if you check your statistics heart disease started to rise at the dawn of the industrial age i.e. refined oils! So, I think I'll cook me up some of this delicious sounding fried chicken cooked in lard, coconut oil, grapeseed oil or the butter from a non genetically modified cow! Bon Appetit!! :O)
gamiaof3 at 4:56PM on 08/28/09
I was looking around for great chicken recipe and this one came up. I cannot wait till try it, but I was wondering. Would it be ok to freeze after soaking in buttermilk step? So I can just thaw and cook some when I want some. I know it probably won't be as good if you cook right away, but I rather be able eat chicken when I want without waiting 24 hours for preparing the food. I could see this be very helpful for families too. If you’re planning cook this chicken for them, because according to buzz on this chicken "More please" haha. Btw thank you Edna and Scott for sharing the recipe and the site too. For the healthy poster, who post on this chicken recipe and wanting to change it. It’s great you have chosen to live a healthy life style and chose to eat healthy, but why are you looking at fried chicken recipe? Here my motto. “Tis better to love and lost then have not love at all.”: by Shakespeare. Better to eat food and lose the weight then have not eaten the food at all.
Bonappetit
Cooking D
Cooking D at 6:56PM on 09/10/09
I'd like to comment about something Dave Faris wrote: "Bacon, butter, AND lard? Come on. My cardiologist just had a heart attack hearing about this recipe."
Let me try to put Mr. Faris' fears to rest. In 1900 heart disease and heart attacks were so rare that the adverage doctor didn't know how to treat it.
In 1930, when the population of the US was 123,000,000 there were 3000 heart attacks deaths recorded. Which means the odds of having a heart attack that year was 42,000 to 1. In 1960 when the population of the US was 197,000,000 there were 500,000 heart attack deaths. Why? Answer: Diet. Everyone was using "Bacon, butter, AND lard" back in the 1800's with no heart disease as a result. It wasn't until after 1930 that everyone started using "heart healthy" vegetable oils and margarine, low fat this and low fat that. The result? The odds of dying of a heart attack in 1950 was about 3500 to 1.
Got Lard?
Jeff VT at 7:59PM on 10/17/09