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Mario Unclogged: Spaghetti al Pomodoro

Editor's note: We're thrilled to introduce our bureau chief of all things Italian on Serious Eats, Mario Batali. Mario will be weighing in regularly on, well, anything he cares to weigh in on. We're excited to have Mario on the site, mostly because he loves to eat and cook as much as we do, and because he adheres to the Serious Eats bywords—Passionate, Inclusive, Discerning—in all of his far-flung endeavors. —Ed Levine

Mario UncloggedNothing, nothing, sounds better than a plate of spaghetti al pomodoro in the month of September.

Did I say nothing? I meant nothing!

The myth of summer tomatoes will continue, but real cooks know that the maximum flavor raver for the golden love apples' peak of perfection is in fact September and even October. A walk through nearly any farmers' market in the northern hemisphere will prove me correct, as one jaunt this last weekend through the Union Square Greenmarket did. There are literally three dozen different types of magnificent tomatoes available in assorted hues, with fantasy names from Green Zebras and Brandywines to Black Russians, Wrinkly Ligurians, Ox Hearts and Cherokee Purples.

A relatively dry summer in the Northeast has produced a deliciously sweet and intense tomato crop, and any tomato you may buy will work in the following recipe as a substitute for the Sungold Cherry tomatoes (one of my all-time faves for sugary sweetness wrapped in a slightly tannic skin of acidity).

Spaghetti al Pomodoro

You'll just need to cut the tomatoes into 1-inch pieces and add them just after the garlic is toasted, cooking them 1 minute less, as they will not need to burst.

Ingredients

1 pound spaghetti
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thin
1 teaspoon hot chili flakes
2 pints of Sungold Cherry tomatoes (or 3 cups of chopped fresh tomatoes and their juices)
20 leaves fresh basil, cut into fine slivers (chiffonade)
1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino

Procedure

1. It is even easier than it reads. Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a spaghetti pot, and add 2 tablespoons salt. Heat a 10- to 12-inch sauté pan over medium heat, add the oil and garlic, and cook until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the chili flakes and the tomatoes, and cook over medium heat, stirring to keep the garlic from cooking any browner until the tomatoes just start to burst or deflate, about 5 minutes.

2. Remove the pan from the heat, and set aside. Drop the spaghetti into the boiling water, and cook until 1 minute less than the package instructions call for. Drain and toss in the pan with the tomatoes; place the pan over high heat and toss to mix well, about 45 seconds.

3. Remove the pan from the heat, add the cheese, then the basil, and toss well to mix. Then pour into a heated bowl, and serve immediately.

"Wow!" will be what you hear just before the silence of a happily chowing crew.

Word up. —MB

Photograph from Jef Poskanzer on Flickr

View other entries from Mario Unclogged.

About the author: Mario Batali has created a thriving restaurant empire and has established himself as a top restaurateur. Together with his partner, Joe Bastianich, he operates seven New York City hotspots. Mario splits his time between New York City's Greenwich Village and northern Michigan with his wife, Susan Cahn, of Coach Dairy Goat Farm, and their two sons. More Mario: mariobatali.com.

19 Comments:

I've become quite the sungold addict over the past few weeks, so I can't wait to try this (if I can ever stop munching on them straight from the basket, that is.)

Such a great dish. I pick up an extra couple pints of sungolds every few weeks from our farmer to make this pasta. I look forward to more posts.

This is a great recipe, and so easy. I've been making something similar for years, and Mario's right. It always gets a "wow" from whoever's eating it. And, it takes about half an hour at most.

Good to see Mario posting on this site!!! One of the best (if not THE best) Italian chefs in America.

was watching mark bittman last night and mario was on and they were having a "steak-off". i laughed so hard at the 2 of them chasing each other with knives through the hills of tuscany. so glad to see him posting here!

anyway, this is my kind of recipe - easy and guaranteed to taste great if you have really good ingredients.

This brings up a question I've had for a while: when is it appropriate to toast garlic and when is it better to sweat it and not let it brown?

"Wow" is right Mario. I'm so glad you will be a regular here on Serious Eats. Nice grab Ed, Adam, and the SE crew! I will definitely try out this recipe.

Word!

Tomatoes are, sadly, starting to disappear from Chicago farmers markets. (Farmers from down state and Indiana seem to be almost out, farmers from Michigan and Wisconsin are still bringing them to the stalls but even they are advising people to use them quickly). I have a few Rose de Bernes and a Cherokee Purple that I'm hoping will hang on until tomorrow night for panzanella.

Still, I love utterly simple, utterly delicious recipes like this that show off seasonal produce at its best.

@blossomtostem: I know it's antithetical to what Mario's talking about here, but once fresh tomatoes completely disappear from farmstands, you can make a variation of this recipe using good-quality canned tomatoes. It's not going to be as sweet, but it's still quite good. In the off-season, I typically use a 28-ounce can of whole, peeled, San Marzano tomatoes. If you're lucky enough to have had a garden full of tomatoes and the foresight to have canned them, you could also dip into your jars in the off season, too.

I've been growing a yellow cherry called Galina for a few years now -- it's delicious, grows like a weed, and it's very prolific. With our really short season here in Montana (the tomatoes went under plastic last weekend when the nighttime lows went into the 30s) I really appreciate a tomato that will continue into the fall ... sounds like pasta pomodoro is on the menu tonight!

Welcome to SE, Mario!

A very timely recipe indeed. A friend just gave me two gorgeous tomatoes from his garden. They're mocking me on the kitchen counter, waiting to become part of this tasty dish.

I can't stand gardening of any kind, let alone the work a vegetable garden entails. However, something like this makes me wanna reconsider. Well, for a couple moments anyway ... Thankfully, there are enough real farmer's markets around here in SE Michigan that I don't have to worry about it. :-)

ah, mario's paying ed back for sous-cheffing it in michigan, eh? ;)

Be still my heart- a fantastic recipe that highlights the end of summer perfectly. It's wonderful to see Mario here at Serious Eats. It can't get much better over here.

I just made this for dinner - absolutely fabulous.

I"m with Mario -- the Sungolds are my Union Square Greenmarket favorite!

Thanks for a wonderful sounding recipe.

Make those Jersey tomatoes and you are spot on!
Pasta makes the heart grown fonder.
I can therefore I am.
Welcome to SE.

I actually have all these ingredients lying around the kitchen, or something close. Different heirloom tomatoes, but all good. Thanks.

I'm ready for a bit more summer before I start in on the winter squashes from the CSA bag. Any thoughts on a butternut squash risotto? I'll be working on that one next.

Oh, in case you read your comments ... thank you for the kind words when I met you at Lidia's in KC. I am not better looking than Giada, but you made and old broad post-childbirth feel good anyway. :)

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