Julia Moskin's brownie article in yesterday's New York Times reminded me of something French pastry chef Francois Payard said to me at a friend's wedding many years ago.
When he found out that Sarabeth Levine of Sarabeth's in New York City had won the James Beard Award for Best Pastry Chef in the U.S., Payard said, in his inimitable French-dipped English, "I cannot believe that. She makes brownies and cookies and pies. She's not a pastry chef, she's a 'bakeur.' And a 'bakeur' is not a pastry chef."
Me, I happen to like brownies and cookies and pies more than I like fancy-pants French confections made of spun sugar and marzipan. That's why I was glad to see Moskin elevating brownie discourse in her story.
She loves Nick Malgieri's Supernatural Brownies recipe, which calls for brown sugar. I've never made Malgieri's brownies, though I'm sure they're good. My favorite brownie recipe is from renowned L.A. baker Nancy Silverton. They're intensely chocolaty, chewy, and fudgey in a vastly superior way to any fudge I've ever tasted.
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