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Chinese Barbecue in Chicago on the 4th of July

Posted by Michael Nagrant, July 3, 2008 at 11:00 AM

Nothing says 4th of July like a smoky cookout. Unfortunately for city dwellers here in Chicago, outdoor space for monster barbecue gatherings comes at a premium. Likewise, because the Fourth is a major national holiday, hopping over to your local barbecue shack isn’t really a viable alternative, as most of them would be closed.

Thankfully, we’ve got no shortage of restaurant-owning Chinese immigrants here in Chicago who happen to be fond of ignoring major American holidays and keeping their places open. There are a lot of options to check out, but after lighting a few hundred sparklers and popping off a brick or two of Black Cat fireworks, my personal 4th of July Chinese barbecue spot of choice in Chicago is Sun Wah BBQ.

Getting There

To find this small Chinese storefront—ironically in the Vietnamese section of Argyle Street—all you have to do is look for a gaggle of mahogany glazed ducks hanging from their necks in a steamy window. Step inside the lobby and you’ll be able to buy deep-fried chicken skin and spicy pepper oil as if they were Atomic Fireballs and Lemonheads from the local convenience store.

Head toward the back, grab a table outfitted with a lazy Susan, and chow down. The most appropriate dish to celebrate the holiday is Sun Wah's mixed barbecue plate, which features a mountain of duck, crisp pork belly, pork skin or crunchy deep-fried chicharonnes, and luscious chicken. If you need to balance out all that meat, the seasonal crisp stir-fried soft-shell crabs tossed with a host of scallions, ginger, and chiles will do the trick.

Get the Beijing Duck

Maybe the best dish, and also maybe the best duck service in town, for a 4th of July (or any holiday) celebration is the Beijing (aka Peking) duck. Order a day ahead to ensure the all-natural, antibiotic-free duck from Indiana is served at its crispest. The service features airy, freshly baked Taiwan-style buns, a balanced hoisin sauce, curls of fresh crisp scallion, and pickled daikon. All of these goodies, paired with the crisp melt-in-your-mouth garlic and five-spiced duck, provide a palate-satisfying revelation.

If you’re lucky, you’ll get the owner’s daughter Kelly Cheng, an incredible culinary historian with more than a few stories about this famous dish, to carve your duck tableside. Her sister Laura, a culinary school trained chef, is pretty handy with a cleaver, too.

Sun Wah BBQ

1132 West Argyle Street, Chicago IL 60640 (b/n North Broadway Street and North Winthrop Avenue; map)
773-769-1254

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